Grandmaster All American 10829 Posts user info edit post |
Last Christmas I gave momma dukes my old laptop so I could have an excuse to get a Samsung NC10. 6 months out of warranty "the screen only works if it's halfway open".
I found the IBL80_LVDS_CABLE I needed for ~20 bucks, but I figured even though I was pretty inexperienced, I'd try my luck at soldering until the part comes in. I know eventually it should be replaced, but what's everyone's over/under on how long before the joint breaks?
8/26/2009 2:54:34 AM |
Nitrocloud Arranging the blocks 3072 Posts user info edit post |
The joint will probably be okay, the cable will break up or downstream of the joint eventually. What was causing the cable to fatigue in the first place? 8/26/2009 3:51:52 AM |
Fail Boat Suspended 3567 Posts user info edit post |
Have you ever heard of heat shrink? 8/26/2009 8:00:15 AM |
ScHpEnXeL Suspended 32613 Posts user info edit post |
that isn't the worst soldering i've seen
but certainly isn't so great either
and ^ 8/26/2009 8:09:59 AM |
quagmire02 All American 44225 Posts user info edit post |
is there any good reason you wouldn't just strip the end of each wire and then twist them together? i've done that before (but i am far from an electrical person, so maybe that introduces some...i don't know, impedance or something)
also, heat shrink 8/26/2009 8:12:33 AM |
ScHpEnXeL Suspended 32613 Posts user info edit post |
how can you tell that they aren't??
i mean, obviously there isn't enough lose wire to pull them closer together and twist the end like you typically would do (and this way is neater) 8/26/2009 8:14:58 AM |
Grandmaster All American 10829 Posts user info edit post |
Nitrocloud It didn't look to be abused in the slightest. I'm going to be sending HP/Compaq a nasty mail today regarding the break. Fail Boat of course, but I had no where near that small of a diameter on hand so, electrical tape it was. ScHpEnXeL quagmire02 I've definitely done that in the past, but the most current blurb of solder info in my head seemed to suggest against this method. I kind of tried to hold the ends flush long enough for the solder to bond.
I was using such a shitty iron (I think I last used the tip to melt a hole in a piece of plastic with the intention of purchasing a couple new ones before my next solder adventure) and the solder was probably not the gauge or ratio best for the job. I was just mainly concerned with not making some pellet sized cold solder joint and settled for my third or so attempt. We'll see how it holds up, tbh I really don't feel like busting that thing apart again so soon.
[Edited on August 26, 2009 at 10:18 AM. Reason : ] 8/26/2009 10:16:40 AM |
Wolfmarsh What? 5975 Posts user info edit post |
Should have used two heat sink clamps/hemostats, so you didnt char/melt the insulation.
For the haters, im assuming thats his only option since if he had a nice iron with an accurate adjustable temp, that wouldnt have happened. If you do have a nice setup though, shame on you. 8/26/2009 10:18:40 AM |
Arab13 Art Vandelay 45180 Posts user info edit post |
eheh, probably long enough for the wire to break somewhere else.
assuming the joint won't be where the maximal flex is, if so then it will break right above or below it like Nitrocloud said 8/26/2009 11:24:46 AM |
Chief All American 3402 Posts user info edit post |
If it's in the flex portion it'll break again eventually, no doubt. Best option is to cut the wire on both sides of the flex and solder them on both sides where there is not movement of the wire. Or if you have the option and access to do so, fully replace the wire and solder/crimp in a one. 8/26/2009 9:45:48 PM |