I don't know why this is one of the last places I thougt to look for some words of wisdom but I finally came to my senses. I am hoping that the knowledge held by members of this board and the frequent traffic lends me some answers sooner rather than later. So here is the issue.

I am getting some work on the YJ done but am taking my time because I don't have a lot of time during the day because of the spacing in my classes and work but anyways...

I got the driver side seal in today but wanted to let you guys look over the pics of it to see if...

1. It is in far enough. I don't know how far it should be set back and was dumb and didn't snap pics before pulling the old one to refer back to

AND

2. If it is in straight enough. These things are a pain in the a$$ to get in perfectly straight and after many many attempts I think it is good but want to double check before putting everything back together.







and then I wanted some input on which of the 3 seals that came with the kit I got from Andy is the right one. I have no clue and the one that I thought (from pics from stu-offroad.com) isn't wanting to budge.


this is the pumpkin side, face in towards the carrier


this is the side that faces the passenger tire (or backside as I call it)

The two on the far right appear to be the exact same except the middle one is slightly smaller. I had it in a couple of days ago when I had a XJ driving, know nothing about working on cars, lending me a couple extra hands but pulled it because of the pics from stu-offroad.com. Those pics led me to try the one on the far right but I can't get that thing to go in to save my life. I am either doing something wrong or it isn't the right one (leaning towards it not being the right one).

Any and all questions, comments, insight, secret mantras to get these things in right are encouraged and welcome.

Sorry for the long post.

6/7/2007 11:05:15 AM

an only slightly related question:

I see a number of jeeps with lots of engine/drivetrain upgrades where it looks like they swapped out all of the weak links except for the front Dana 30. how much can you really get away with on a stock Dana 30 (in terms of tires, lockers, and motor)?

6/7/2007 11:11:44 AM

I have seen people running 36s with a lunch box locker (Aussie) with a 4cyl.

I am sure you could run a bigger motor but I wouldn't push beyond the 6. It would depend also on how heavy your foot is and torque, etc.

I am hoping that buy mid-oct I will be running the combo listed at the top.

6/7/2007 11:20:20 AM

those seals don't have to be in "perfect". they'll still seal fine even if they're in a touch crooked. how are you putting them in? i always use a large socket or a piece of tubing.

as for the seal, just whichever one seals good when you slide it on the shaft and gives you a tight fit into the carrier. shouldn't be hard to figure from trial and error. or, go buy a cheap digital caliper.

^^with a light foot on the go pedal, stock power, and upgraded shafts/joints, they can live pretty well under 36's-38's. the real liability in a stock drivetrain is the d35.

6/7/2007 12:13:42 PM

yeah, i know the 35 is the really weak link. just strikes me kinda funny every time i see a Jeep with a SBC, SM420/NV4500, Dana 300, Dana 60/Ford 9"...and a Dana 30 up front. I've seen several of them like that.

Quote :

"with a light foot on the go pedal, stock power, and upgraded shafts/joints, they can live pretty well under 36's-38's. the real liability in a stock drivetrain is the d35."

what about a heavy foot (at least sometimes) on the go pedal, stock 6cyl power, upgraded shafts joints, 35s, but locked?

i.e., is a TJ with the optional rear Dana 44 a reasonably tough rig even with 35s and lockers? surely it would be with 33s and lockers.

sorry to sidetrack the thread...there are just too many vehicles I like, and tough to narrow it down. Hell, I have a hard enough time picking between sports car and 4x4.

6/7/2007 12:36:49 PM

^^I am using a piece of tubing I got from 69. I cut it down to about 3" and welded plate to one end so that I don't have to have 4.5 hands to do the work. I can do it myself if need be though it was easier with the summer room mate lending me a hand yesterday. I am just going to take a stab at the passenger side.

Another board I am on mentioned that Andy at CRS had to grind out the inside of the tube on a XJ 30 when he did the 1 piece for a guy. I am not sure if that would help or be more trouble then it is worth.

If I don't have work this afternoon then I am going to try and finish it up today.

6/7/2007 12:41:21 PM

^if it's close, i would lightly roll the outside cage of the seal on a belt sander or bench grinder before going at the housing. you should be able to find a seal that works before having to do anything like that though.

worst case, you go get a cheap digital caliper like a mentioned... get your shaft measurement and the inside of the seal race and go match it up to a part number somewhere. i'd reccomend napa or carquest for something like that. or loop road in garner.

^^yeah, that combo should hold up decent for occasional hard throttling. especially here on the wet coast, and in wa where you'll be. with upgraded shafts/joints, your weak link in the d30 becomes the ring/pinion. steering also.

personally, i think you're just polishing a turd doing anything to a d30. if you find one someone's already done the work to i'd consider it, but i wouldn't reccomend putting any money into one yourself. it could be better spent torwards a hp44 or something.

6/7/2007 1:21:05 PM

in other words, on the chance that I do find a good deal on a D44 rear Jeep and jump on it, throw some 33s or 35s on it, lock the diffs, and roll the dice from there? if i don't break it, great, if i do, put a real front axle under it?

6/7/2007 9:09:58 PM

pretty much.

6/7/2007 9:19:43 PM