I have a Kicker CVR12 with a bridged Rockford Fosgate P200-2 amp pushing it.
A few days ago the sub stopped working, so today I went in to check all my connections and whatnot. The amp is definitely getting power, it also has a light that fluctuates with the music, so that indicates that it's getting signal. Everything is connected securely. While playing with the radio controls I noticed that the driver side rear speaker isn't working either.
Help plz

8/10/2008 4:34:59 PM

Take a C battery and tape the speaker wires to it and listen or feel for the sub moving in and out. If so, then the voice coil isn't blown up.

Alternatively, you could hook the amp output up to a different speaker but if there is a serious problem in there you could end up smoking another sub.

8/11/2008 3:43:48 PM

simple question....

has a speaker wire come loose?

do you have the gain on your amp turned all the way down?

Is your amp wired to your rear speaker using a Line Output Converter (LOC) or is it wired to your headunit with RCA's?

8/11/2008 3:49:35 PM

^
All the connections are good.
Gain is not all the way down.
It's connected through the rear speakers with a LOC

[Edited on August 11, 2008 at 8:58 PM. Reason : ]

8/11/2008 8:57:50 PM

What light fluctuates with the music? The power light? I've not dealt with a multitude of amps, but I've never seen one where a light changes with the music. Have you checked the fuses, it sounds like a fuse is in the process of burning out.

8/12/2008 10:49:16 AM

why does my home theater subwoofer have two inputs but a bracket drawn that lists "mono"? Do I need an RCA Y adapter since my receiver only has one output for sub?

8/12/2008 11:45:45 AM

^^


The Rockford Fosgate emblem lights up. At rest only the middle lights up, then the light moves outward to fill the two parts of the circle as the intensity increases, and vice versa. (Like an EQ)
Fuse is good.

[Edited on August 12, 2008 at 12:18 PM. Reason : ]

8/12/2008 12:15:07 PM

Oh I see. Well I guess what I would do is find somebody with a system and hook your sub up to their amp to verify that the sub works. If you can't do that then you could always go buy another amp (from a store with a good return policy) and test the sub/amp that way. If you can buy the same model amp that would be even better because then if the new one worked you could just return the old one. If the new amp doesn't work, I'd suggest doing the same with the sub.

8/12/2008 12:34:51 PM

He doesn't need to take his sub anywhere.

I already gave him a procedure to see if his voice coils are blown up.

Quote :

"Take a C battery and tape the speaker wires to it"

That should be "tap", not tape. You'll hear or feel the sub moving up and down if the voice coil is fine.

8/12/2008 1:50:18 PM

^While that may work, I wouldn't trust a 1.5v battery to determine if I should trash a XXX dollar sub. At the same time, I wouldn't trust a "pop" from it to trash a XXX dollar amp. That's just me though.

8/12/2008 2:18:08 PM

You aren't using your head. The battery is just an easy check to see if the voice coil(s) are blown up. If the sub moves, then it's highly unlikely that it is the sub. If it doesn't, then it is highly likely it is.

It's meant to narrow down the scope of the problem to either the sub or the amp.

I've being doing this shit for more than a decade now.

8/12/2008 3:36:14 PM

It has started working a few times in the last couple days while I've been driving, I guess I need to go through and check all the connections again.

8/14/2008 3:42:39 PM