Darb5000 All American 1294 Posts user info edit post |
My 1995 Wrangler is consistently running hot (about 225 degrees, just short of red). It seems like I need to replace my thermostat (it's been at least 5 years since this has been done) and this time I'm going to try to do it myself.
I've read/heard that some or all of the coolant should be drained from the radiator in order to do this. Is this really necessary? If the engine is completely cooled can I just replace the thermostat and gasket? Is there anything else I need to know/worry about? 1/24/2009 1:04:32 PM |
Hurley Suspended 7284 Posts user info edit post |
drain/flush of the coolant would be appropriate at this time, and probably make it a little easier to do it 1/24/2009 1:07:49 PM |
Mr Grace All American 12412 Posts user info edit post |
5 minute job if its the 4.0l, dont know about the 2.5 1/24/2009 8:40:27 PM |
Ragged All American 23473 Posts user info edit post |
^same thing. the motor just has 2 less pistons. 1/24/2009 8:57:59 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
1/25/2009 9:41:27 AM |
optmusprimer All American 30318 Posts user info edit post |
Did one on a 5.2 last night, as always the "hard" part is refilling the system. 1/25/2009 10:10:46 AM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
not if you drill a small hole in the t-stat and fill it slow 1/25/2009 12:27:32 PM |
Darb5000 All American 1294 Posts user info edit post |
Well, I just finished replacing the thermostat. I didn't drain and flush the coolant - I didn't loose any when I removed the housing and thermostat so I just topped off the reservoir when I was done.
Unfortunately when I was done I turned the engine on and let it run for about 5 min and it was already running up at around 220 degrees. The radiator itself seems to have plenty of coolant in it and it doesn't seem like I'm loosing any fluid. I guess the problem could be a bad water pump. Any thoughts? 1/25/2009 4:29:51 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
system is airlocked, run it with the radiotor cap off, it will eventually blow out a shitload of steam/water, let it cool, refill, wash/rinse/repeat until all the air pockets are gone
just dont let it get too hot 1/25/2009 4:48:26 PM |
Mr Grace All American 12412 Posts user info edit post |
was it overheating while driving down the road or just in stop and go traffic?
could be your fan clutch 1/25/2009 5:54:54 PM |
Darb5000 All American 1294 Posts user info edit post |
It hasn't gotten into the red. It will run just short of red regardless of driving conditions - the same if it's resting at idle or going down the highway. 1/25/2009 6:24:28 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
the reason for that being is that you have a steam pocket behind the thermostat and temp sensor, it will not read any higher until all the coolant flashes to steam and has blown out of the system
thermostats don't work well in air, which is why it isnt opening, if you have to, take it out and drill a small hole in the flange on it 1/25/2009 6:32:43 PM |
Darb5000 All American 1294 Posts user info edit post |
Actually the old one did have a small hole/valve in it. The one I replaced it with does not.
Do I need to be adding coolant anywhere other than in the reservoir? There's coolant in the radiator to about 1.5" to 2" below where the cap screws on.
[Edited on January 25, 2009 at 6:45 PM. Reason : ] 1/25/2009 6:36:50 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
when you took the top hose/t-stat housing off, did any coolant pour out? or was there an airspace in the head?
if it was, that was your problem 1/25/2009 6:42:14 PM |
Darb5000 All American 1294 Posts user info edit post |
There was virtually no coolant that spilled out. 1/25/2009 6:46:25 PM |
Mr Grace All American 12412 Posts user info edit post |
run it with the radiator cap off and keep filling it as it lowers 1/25/2009 6:53:12 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
^ will not work
you really have two options, either take off a heater hose and try to bleed it, or drill a hole in the t-stat and very slowly fill it with the front parked uphill
[Edited on January 25, 2009 at 6:56 PM. Reason : make sure the hole is at the top] 1/25/2009 6:55:27 PM |
Darb5000 All American 1294 Posts user info edit post |
Should I just put the old one back in? It's seeming like it may not have been the problem. 1/25/2009 6:57:45 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
it's not that difficult on this engine,
you need the correct thermostat, with an air bleed hole,
make sure the flattest side faces the radiator, hole straight up,
then SLOWLY fill the system, do not let the top tank of the radiator fill up, if you do, it will fill the top hose and air lock it
once it stops gurgling, and you can still see a little coolant over the tubes in the radiator, start the engine and let it warm up, topping it off slowly as it goes down,
when it's warm you should see the coolant flowing, if not, let it cool off and try it again,
i usually dump in the antifreeze first, then top off with clear water, when you see bright green flowing into the top, you know it's circulating
you will still need to check and top off the reservoir every once in a while for a few days afterward
ok, try this first before you tear it back down:
take off the small heater hose that connects to the thermostat housing, and see if coolant pours out with the radiator cap off, if not then add coolant to the radiator until it pours out then stick the hose back on and try to warm it up
[Edited on January 25, 2009 at 7:20 PM. Reason : report back with results]
1/25/2009 7:04:20 PM |
snakeyes3460 Starting Lineup 52 Posts user info edit post |
I had a wrangler 2.5 that use to over heat. Checked everything from t-stat to fan clutch. Finally tried running without a t-stat even installed and it still overheated. Ended up being a stopped up rad. 200 bucks and a single row alum. rad installed and it stayed cool. It's not worth trying to boil (clean) to original rad. 1/25/2009 7:23:04 PM |
Darb5000 All American 1294 Posts user info edit post |
^^The heater hose is the smaller of the two hoses that connects to the housing, right (the one that tracks back towards the dash)? It's stuck on there pretty good. Any tricks to ease it off, I don't want to mess up the hose and have something else to fix.
^I just had the radiator replaced in the last year do it shouldn't be the problem. 1/25/2009 7:33:11 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
if there is a long enough straight section past the nipple, cut it off flush with the nipple, then slit the remainder along the length and peel it off, and clean up the nipple with some sandpaper, then just push the hose back on with a new clamp when you're done
if not, work around it with a flat screwdriver and pry it off from the bottom, pulling will get you nowhere, but seriously, heater hose is cheap, if in doubt hack it off and replace it
fyi, never reuse the stock spring clamps, they really are a one time use deal and lose their tension, always replace them with worm drive clamps when you have to take them off 1/25/2009 7:54:21 PM |
Darb5000 All American 1294 Posts user info edit post |
I'll get into this another day and let you know how it goes. Thanks for the help so far! 1/25/2009 8:11:30 PM |
69 Suspended 15861 Posts user info edit post |
update? 1/30/2009 10:49:47 PM |
Darb5000 All American 1294 Posts user info edit post |
My bad. I was able to cycle through the engine blowing off steam which did help bring the temp down. It was still heating strangely so I broke down and took it to a garage. Turns our my water pump and a lower hose were both leaking a little so I had them replace them. I was afraid if I tinkered with it any more I'd just mess something up.
Thanks for the help everyone. 1/31/2009 3:34:49 PM |