a friend of mine has a 99 accord v6 that has intermittent problems with cutting off while driving and not starting. the no-start issue [according to the owner] can be resolved by "holding the key the right way"

the research i've done points to the ignition switch. the car has had at least one of the ignition switch recalls done (maybe 2) but i found some recalls involving the ignition interlock. there is one, for sure, that is for the electrical switch (SRB#02-031) but i dont know if that is the one (or one of the ones) that was done. waiting to hear back on the VIN so i can call honda about it. i have read some stuff that suggests the switches can fail even if they were replaced under the recall.

yesterday i get a call telling me it wouldn't start and the car went to an independent "honda specialist", but i don't know where it was taken or how competent the shop is. it was diagnosed as a bad distributor.

now comes my dilemma. i can't find any info regarding testing the distributor, except for checking voltage at the plug (for the icm?), +12 at the black/yellow wire. obviously checking spark output would be the logical thing to do, but the intermittent nature of the problem makes that a little difficult.

basically, i am looking for ideas or suggestions on diagnosing this. i found info to diag the electrical switch (ie, which pins should be connected for each position of the switch).

i know there are some people on here that are way more knowledgeable about honda stuff than i am, and any help or info would be greatly appreciated.

6/12/2010 3:36:52 PM

I had a similar problem in a 92 accord related to the ignition module

6/12/2010 3:54:06 PM

One thing about the distributor is that it serves as a cam/crank angle sensor and actually has a module with three optical pickups for just such a purpose. If the dizzy is shitting the bed, then one or the other error flag will be set. You can check reference voltage at the dizzy, as well as waveforms for each output signal...but obviously that requires a 'scope and the correct pinout diagram.

You should also be able to check the ignition module with a low voltage test light to see if the ecm's actually even generating the fire signal. If so, highly suspect the ignitor module its self. If no signal is present, then the ecm isn't getting its needed data from the cam/crank angle sensor.

6/14/2010 12:57:13 PM

Another idea to see if you can't rule out the ignition switch...leave it in the "on" position and use a remote switch to turn the starter. See if you have reference voltage, position signals, and module fire signal. Try it with the remote switch, and then try using the key...

One thing I know you probably know is that it's high season to see heatsoak failures occurring...no-start after being shut down on a hot day, or dropouts after driving for a while.

Main relay fuel pump no-run situations usually don't happen in the middle of operation; usually when you get in a hot car, or the humidity is way up, etc.

6/14/2010 1:00:42 PM

^thats what my car does right now... about 50% the time I try to start it if its been sitting in the sun, or I just shut it off < 30 minutes prior... Heres how I 'fix' it, I unlock the steering wheel adjuster clamp and slam the steering wheel upward a few times til i hear the relay click (and the check engine light turns off). Then it starts right up!

[Edited on June 14, 2010 at 1:17 PM. Reason : '93 teg]

6/14/2010 1:17:05 PM

There is a small black circuit box, under the dash near the steering column. when the box goes bad, it causes intermittent starting problems. They cost $50 and most dealers keep them instock, its a common problem.

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f13/fixed-main-relay-pictures-88478/

6/14/2010 2:31:55 PM

i found the ignition switch pin-out diagram as well as which pins should have connectivity at which key position. the only problem is that the problem is intermittent and i'm not sure if there is a way to cause the problem (eg, jiggling the key or whatever)

this problem is not new, so i dont think it is heat related. the cut-off while driving has apparently been happening for a few months now.

the check engine light is not on. would it store one of those error flags (for the dist) and not turn on the cel?

6/14/2010 2:33:14 PM

I don't know what kind of priority the angle sensors have in the OBD, but I'm willing to say that anything that causes a significant cut or a no-start (even intermittently) will flag.

Definitely sounds like it could very well be in the ignition switch...interrupts power to the ECM, no codes set.

6/14/2010 2:48:14 PM