toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
I want to locate an early 70's late 60s carb for my 84 f150 with the 300 six. I have been reading that the truck will run much better with a carb from this era. Does any have any help 8/1/2010 5:06:01 PM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
going for a double barrel weber. 8/1/2010 8:41:42 PM |
Skack All American 31140 Posts user info edit post |
Yeah, old worn out stuff usually is way better.
SIKE!!!! 8/1/2010 9:22:49 PM |
smc All American 9221 Posts user info edit post |
Anything around 450cfm should be fine I would think. I don't have anything sitting around. Keep an eye out at LKQ. 8/1/2010 9:27:56 PM |
zxappeal All American 26824 Posts user info edit post |
Even an old single barrel Carter YF, if tuned right, can run well on the 300 six. If you can find one, the Offenhauser four barrel manifold, an adapter, and an Autolite 2150 two barrel is a great setup.
The two barrel Weber 32/36 or 34/34 is a good setup too, but requires the Offy or Clifford manifold and an adapter. 8/2/2010 9:36:29 AM |
Houston All American 2269 Posts user info edit post |
http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/
call them. they can help. buy a new carb, its not worth rebuilding an old one for that price. 8/2/2010 10:48:52 AM |
zxappeal All American 26824 Posts user info edit post |
Shit, Ben...it's not worth having someone rebuild it. But I can rebuild carbs in my sleep. The big catch is the throttle shaft leaking. That is one argument for getting a new carb. 8/2/2010 11:06:28 AM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.asp?prod=PCA%2D200%2DV1V
I found this. I read that if you are not going to channel the intake manifold or something for a double barrel it wont run right and only net 5-9whp gain on the 300 from guys who do this all the time.
I think I am just going to tune the carb on their better. I have already rebuilt it. 8/2/2010 2:47:04 PM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
I spoke with the owner of Clifford racing and he wanted me to hernia 599 kit that involved a 38/38 weber, modified mount/adapter plate, air filter, throttle linkage, etc. Not trying to spend that much and I let him know that I wasn't trying to hop the truck up just make it run smoother 8/2/2010 3:14:27 PM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
I spoke with the owner of Clifford racing and he wanted me to get a 599 kit that involved a 38/38 weber, modified mount/adapter plate, air filter, throttle linkage, etc. Not trying to spend that much and I let him know that I wasn't trying to hop the truck up just make it run smoother 8/2/2010 3:15:12 PM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
Clifford racing fellow was saying how I need a fuel pressure regulator with the webers because they only need 2 pines and not the 8 that the fuel pump puts out 8/2/2010 3:21:00 PM |
Houston All American 2269 Posts user info edit post |
yeah, but if a rebuild kit is 30 bucks, and a new carb (or at least rebuilt to new specs) is 80, why monkey with a rebuild? I mean if you already have the carb, and the throttle shaft bushings arent shot, then rebuild the sucker. But by the time you buy a worn out 2 barrel and stick a kit in it you have not come out ahead.
I am contemplating replacing the holley 1904 (which was a piece of shit new from the factory) on my truck with one of the weber clones from stovebolt. The nice thing about that company, you call them and tell them what you have, and they send you a properly jetted carb. 8/2/2010 8:36:09 PM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
Yeah, I Agree with your reasoning and I did rebuild the stock carb already. Made sure that everything was done to spec as well. I removed/plugged off the emissions stuff because it was rusted away and ford does not carry the replacement parts anymore. The truck bogs at a lower rpm but once it picks up it's Rpms it smooths out. It also idles smooth too. I want to just get rid of the old carb and get a new one that will not give me problems like this one.
If I could get the proper location and where to get it I would go ahead and get it. I would even prefer a manual choke. I am tired of relying on automated things on this truck that will just mess up if given the chance. I appreciate all of the help that has been given so far.
I'm not really caring about power gains just want it to run smooth on a simple setup.
How many CDMA should I be looking for? I have been calling and reading around woke people say 300, some say all the way to 450.. Thathanks
[Edited on August 2, 2010 at 9:48 PM. Reason : M]
[Edited on August 2, 2010 at 9:50 PM. Reason : That's cfm not CDMA iPhone fail] 8/2/2010 9:45:08 PM |
zxappeal All American 26824 Posts user info edit post |
Dude, if you're worried about bog, you can adjust the height of the metering rod...I am assuming that you have the Carter YF carb.
I never set the goddamn things by the book anyway...just use book settings as a rough reference. 8/5/2010 2:05:51 AM |
tripleD4u All American 6247 Posts user info edit post |
I have never set any carb to spec. Spec = not running right 8/5/2010 9:42:10 AM |
toyotafj40s All American 8649 Posts user info edit post |
Carter YF I do have I believe. Should I bring the height of the metering rod 'tighther' with that lil screw or looser?
She's running better now and will spin up a tire if I get to quick to let off the clutch. So she is coming along 8/5/2010 1:07:33 PM |