Wife got me a head unit and I don't have the first clue how to install it. It's a kenwood and I drive a 2003 Nissan Altima. Looking for someone to help me out for cheaper than the $120 best buy charges...

12/18/2011 8:47:39 PM

did you get the correct wiring kit for your car and other supplies (probably a plastic plastic mounting kit)?

i could probably help you install it, but i wont be back in town until the 28th

12/18/2011 9:28:42 PM

Probably not.. All I have is the stereo as of now. Guess I could also use some help with what else I need to buy..

12/18/2011 9:45:33 PM

you'll at least need:

a dash kit, I liked the scosche kit in my old truck http://www.scosche.com/car-audio/specific-dash-kits

wiring harness: http://www.crutchfield.com/app/car/carselector.aspx?vb=Y&ss=Y&g=103000&sl=Y&lp=%2fg_103000%2fVehicle-specific-Wiring-Harnesses.html%3ftp%3d736&

antenna adapter: http://www.crutchfield.com/g_119400/Vehicle-specific-Antenna-Adapters.html?tp=1083

make sure each fits your stereo/vehicle. if your exact stereo is on crutchfield, then you should be able to determine what all you need by building your system in your actual vehicle via the website.

12/18/2011 9:54:29 PM

Thanks man. It does say that no antenna adapter fits my car... Is it possible that I don't need that? I was able to remove the factory stereo (only to realize I have no idea how to put the other one in, ha) and it looked like the antenna adapter should fit into the back of the aftermarket. The specific stereo I got is here: http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KDC248U-Dash-Head-Stereo/dp/B004EG0LS2

12/18/2011 10:12:28 PM

PM sent. Can install as soon as you get the wiring harness/dash kit.

12/18/2011 10:37:54 PM

^^that could be the case; I've never seen that, but it's not like I've done a lot of installs on various vehicles/stereos.

so just pick you up a dash kit and harness and you'll be good to go. the harness is the hardest part of this process... soldering all those wires is annoying, otherwise, it's a pretty easy process.

I'd offer my services, but I'm fearful of doing other peoples' work (other than close friends that won't really care too much if I break their shit). I've never fucked anything up, but dashes can be fragile and are expensive... I'd rather not risk it with my amateur skills.

12/19/2011 8:39:53 AM

Well, you don't have to solder the adapter/harness connections. It is DEFINITELY best practice and highly recommended though. That being said, I've installed several head units with crimp connections and not had any problems with the longevity of the connectivity (knock on wood).

If you're a first timer or novice when it comes to soldering and end up doing it yourself, then you'll probably be better off crimping versus risking cold or weak solder joints. If you decide to try crimping, then strip off plenty of insulation, twist the wires as tightly as you can together, then cap them off with this type of crimp connector.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_113972-12704-772416_0__?productId=3362964&Ntt=ideal+crimp&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dideal%2Bcrimp&facetInfo=

Make sure you get the gauge appropriate size and secure the wire bundles together afterwards with cable ties to avoid strain on the connections due to install/removal of the head unit and normal bumps, etc.

12/19/2011 10:16:25 AM

Crimping is definitely the way to go. Your wire connections will be less brittle and less likely to break when you cram everything back into the tiny space behind the head unit.

Best Buy crimps all connections, FYI.

12/19/2011 10:27:52 AM

Every install I have done has been with crimp connectors as well.

12/19/2011 10:38:22 AM

You guys are awesome, thanks for the help. I could use some advice on crimping technique and necessary tools, but in an effort to not have this discussion going in multiple forums, I'm going to refer to my thread on the Tech page. Thanks guys.

12/19/2011 10:39:48 AM

I twist the wires together and wrap them with electrical tape.
I've probably done half a dozen or more this way and never had a wire come loose on it's own so I don't want to hear any bitching.

12/19/2011 3:17:55 PM

yeh, butt connectors, etc. will work fine too... I don't really care for ^ though

I prefer soldered connections everywhere. And I've never had a problem doing that, even the very first time I soldered.

12/19/2011 3:24:41 PM

^^That is what I did on my car and the wife's car.
I do a better job for customers.

12/19/2011 5:59:11 PM

soldered is overkill if nothing is getting wet, butt connectors is twice as much work as you need to do...

12/19/2011 9:40:00 PM

Quote :

"^^That is what I did on my car and the wife's car. I do a better job for customers."

To be fair, I do think electrical tape has its merits. Crimp connectors expose the actual copper wire to air (and therefore moisture) unless you put heat shrink tubing over it. When you wrap it with electrical tape that connection is pretty well sealed from the elements. In my experience the electrical tape itself can be pretty gooey and nasty when you remove it several years later, but without exposure to sunlight it will last as long as you need it to.

I do strip the wires back about 1" so there is a pretty large section twisted together. Fold the twisted section down flat against the sheathed wire and put a few layers of tape over it to seal up the joint.

[Edited on December 19, 2011 at 10:07 PM. Reason : s]

12/19/2011 10:05:56 PM

yeah dont use crimp connectors that are open on both ends, use the butt kind

if you have the kind open on both ends, just twist the stripped wires and then crimp them on one end, speaker wire has a high thread count, if you use the kind that are open on both ends the threads will not actually touch

12/22/2011 12:56:35 AM