so i traded that white melody maker to Sousapickle for the danelectro i sold him about 18 months ago

i missed her so very much

8/9/2008 2:17:17 PM

ok so metronome suggestions! although im probably going to be buying one today so who knows who will see this before then:

http://www.guitarcenter.com/Boss-DB-30-Dr--Beat-Metronome-103304309-i1125665.gc

or

http://www.guitarcenter.com/Korg-TM-40-Digital-Tuner-Metronome-210533-i1125538.gc

i have a cheap one at the moment and i also use metronomeonline.com or whatever too but when it comes to non standard stuff they fall short (even stuff like 5/4, not stressing on the 5 is annoying to me when im trying to practice)

im thinking the boss just because the korg seems to have a lot of stuff I really dont need in this metronome

[Edited on August 9, 2008 at 3:48 PM. Reason : ]

8/9/2008 3:45:37 PM

boss

8/9/2008 3:50:31 PM

word

8/9/2008 3:54:24 PM

any suggestions for finger longevity besides not using such thick strings? i hate the sound of thin strings but these thick ones are killing my fingers--to the point where i can't play as much as i'd like bc it's very painful

8/10/2008 9:31:32 PM

play through the pain

you'll grow out of it

8/10/2008 9:34:44 PM

fuck metronomes. bands will play to my time.

8/11/2008 1:04:23 AM

^^^ id say play through it. I use a .60 on my bottom string and a .13 on top. It sucked at first but now I cant stand to go back to thin strings, I feel so uncomfortable on them.

One thing I will ask though is what tuning do you use and what gauge strings are you using (gimme the gauges for each string) and I can tell you whether the strings you are using are "too" thick -in quotations because it is kind of relative, but I did tension calculations when picking my string gauges for my tuning and I really like the results.

It is possible to have just one or two strings with way too much tension too, the standard string packs arent really optimized for every tuning and scale length etc. And also, depending on the type of bridge you have and the gauges you used before your current set, your intonation could have pulled back a little too which wouldnt help.

[Edited on August 11, 2008 at 7:18 AM. Reason : ]

8/11/2008 7:13:56 AM

i never put much stock in those guys who recommended individually tension-matched string sets...until i used some

i use .12s with no issues of pain or difficultly bending because i'm used to them, and i don't play anything super heavy

8/11/2008 2:27:06 PM

Quote :

"i never put much stock in those guys who recommended individually tension-matched string sets...until i used some"

same. the first time I tried it I really appreciated it. When I first started using C standard tuning, I was still using 0.11s because I didnt know much about tuning and string gauges etc. But I quickly got tired of how slow the spring response was in the strings because they didnt have enough tension. I went out and got a stock detuned set with like .7s on the bottom but they just didnt feel right - Really uneven tension and I dono just uncomfortable, so I went back to .11s.

Then I did some tension calculations after I read someone talking about it on a messageboard, and I think now I have 13 16 22 32 44 60 or something? Anyways the difference in getting strings with the right tension for my guitar was extremely noticeable and recommended.

[Edited on August 11, 2008 at 2:40 PM. Reason : ]

8/11/2008 2:39:20 PM

I'll post them all later.. they're a standard pack though so they probably arent optimal. Eb tuning

8/11/2008 5:06:20 PM

DY52 DY40 DY32 DY24 15 12

Eb Ab Db Gb Bb Eb

8/11/2008 6:24:44 PM

yea im getting numbers that are all over the place for your set. definitely not ideal to have your 3rd and 4th strings 6 lbs higher than your low E actually your low E is lower than everything but your Bb.

_E .012" PL == 20.8#
_B, .015" PL == 18.24#
_G, .024" nw == 25.03#
_D, .032" nw == 25.04#
_A,, .040" nw == 21.34#
_E,, .052" nw == 19.61#
total == 130.07#

this is one that I have on one of my guitars (slightly different than what I posted earlier but this is a great example):

C: .012" [PL] = 14.71 pounds
G: .016" [PL] = 14.68 pounds
D#: .022" [PL] = 17.48 pounds
A#: .032" [NW] = 17.70 pounds
F: .044" [NW] = 18.07 pounds
C: .060" [NW] = 19.18 pounds

Total Tension = 101.82 pounds

See how my strings get progressively more tension from my high C to my low C? more natural transition on scale runs etc.


this isnt bad - on paper the tension drops for you while still staying thick enough for basically no audible drop in thickness in the tone probably but its got some odd string gauges which might annoy you trying to buy them since it would have to be done individually.

_E .011" PL == 17.48#
_B, .015" PL == 18.24#
_G, .021" nw == 19.12#
_D, .029" nw == 20.64#
_A,, .040" nw == 21.34#
_E,, .052" nw == 19.61#
total == 116.43#

this might be a more realistic option for you although its only 2lbs less than your current setup over and it brings the Bb up slightly BUT it drops your Gb and Db significantly (they def seem out of place in your current set and those strings id assume give you more problems than the others). if you wanted you could drop the Db down to a 40 too which would drop your total tension down to around 20.

_E .012" PL == 20.8#
_B, .016" PL == 20.76#
_G, .022" nw == 21.18#
_D, .030" nw == 22.3#
_A,, .042" nw == 23.44#
_E,, .052" nw == 19.61#
total == 128.1#


a little over analyzing but maybe it will give you some ideas

if you are having a problem on specific string tension more than others let me know that too

[Edited on August 11, 2008 at 8:12 PM. Reason : ]

8/11/2008 8:07:23 PM

after looking those numbers over and playing some things that involve as much finger hell as possible.. it's def the G string bothering me the most. D is pretty bad too but I typically have less bends and things to really abuse it so it's less noticeable

i played with some SRV copies for a little while and actually liked them..

0.013, 0.015, 0.019, 0.028, 0.038, 0.058... looks to have some decent difference on G and D, maybe that's why I liked them more

thanks for the help.. any more suggestions with this info?


edit: oh, and i actually usually buy 12 16 19 dy28 dy38 dy52's from GHS, but this time all they had were the 13's..

[Edited on August 11, 2008 at 9:21 PM. Reason : asdf]

8/11/2008 9:20:01 PM

word. in the end its all about how it feels. the calculations are a good guidance when you run into the situation like you have, but they arent the fool proof solution. They helped me out a lot in giving you suggestions because, without playing your guitar I couldnt tell what the problem spots were, but it pointed out a few strings that stood out.

If you're playing on a fixed bridge, id try a few slightly different combinations out over your next few string changes maybe to see what you think since it will be relatively easy to do so. Even on a fixed bridge though, different string sets will affect your intonation, so, once you have found a set you really like I'd consider getting your guitar "set up" using those strings and your tuning to make sure all your saddles are sitting right and everything. You certainly dont want your strings too high or uneven of course, and this might happen after swapping stuff out.

8/11/2008 11:16:52 PM

^ the one problem i have with my junior with the wraptail...intonation gets harder to deal with as you move to thicker strings, and there's nothing to be adjusted :-/

8/12/2008 1:59:10 PM

ah yea that would be annoying :/

you could try one of the "adjustable" wraparounds. I hear nothing but good things about Pigtails.

8/12/2008 2:15:59 PM

eh, i had a special with a badass bridge, and the sustain's not the same

give and take

8/12/2008 2:22:00 PM

I've always played one brand. ernieball reg. slinkeys.
why? because I can pick 'em out on the shelf with the bright green package.

but seriously, if the only strings you had in the world were one brand.....wouldn't you adapt?

8/12/2008 11:04:29 PM

yes if I am understanding your post right, but the same can be said for a better guitar or better athletic equipment etc. Sure if you were stuck with them you would have to learn to use them. But if there are more efficient setups out there, why not use them?

8/12/2008 11:09:53 PM

i ain't takin' no shit from a guy that uses .10s

8/13/2008 4:25:55 PM

lol

8/13/2008 4:26:43 PM

lollerz

8/13/2008 4:38:58 PM

8/14/2008 3:54:21 PM

i play with bass strings on my strat. i also cascade 8 tubescreamers up front. take that SRV.

8/14/2008 5:41:03 PM

OH HI MY COCK IS HUUUGE

8/14/2008 5:45:14 PM

even with bass strings, it's still a strat

pass

8/15/2008 1:24:36 PM

i played a PRS the other day that i wouldn't be embarrassed to own

the pickups sucked, but the unplugged tone was nice and woody and it didn't look like nuclear vomit

8/15/2008 2:39:40 PM

yea i mean PRS guitars are pretty well made, I really can't knock them for that I just always hated them because they were/are the posterboy guitars of the horrible wave of radiorock bands for the last 10 years - nickelback, linkin park, creed, alterbridge, the used, disturbed etc.

They do have a solid list of good guitar players that use them as well though. It just seemed like when I was starting to play guitar, most the bands I saw using PRS guitars were the bands I despised and so I've always had a bias towards them haha.

8/15/2008 2:47:29 PM

^ exactly

it's the ultimate showoff guitar, other than something that rick nielsen thought up

and showoffs usually suck

8/15/2008 2:50:24 PM

mother fucker, broke another e string

broke right on the bridge..



[Edited on August 15, 2008 at 9:43 PM. Reason : I love you Little Wing but you're costing me way too much in strings ]

8/15/2008 9:42:35 PM

okay, especially on a strat bridge

you've got a burr either on the underside of the saddle or on the plate where the string comes out of the inertia block

8/16/2008 10:35:13 AM

how do I fix? Just polish it or something?

8/16/2008 10:39:38 AM

take the string off, take the saddle off, and use a small file to smooth out all the surfaces that the strin g touches from the ball end to the point where it breaks the saddle

8/16/2008 10:56:00 AM

k, figured that was it but wanted to be sure

thanks, will report back if i find anything obvious

8/16/2008 11:06:57 AM

you might spring for some knobs too.

8/16/2008 1:09:48 PM

i don't like to know where i'm at--only that it sounds how i want it to

haha..really i stripped the threads off the original ones when i didn't play for a long time and then tried to use them and forced them and just never really wanted to spend the money on new ones

ah well

8/16/2008 1:37:40 PM

8/16/2008 3:18:52 PM

good idea

maybe i'll go by guitar center tomorrow

8/17/2008 5:35:20 PM

darren riley's will have a much better selection of knobs

8/17/2008 6:10:28 PM

i'm in asheboro..

http://www.darrenriley.com/shop/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=1418 tho..

[Edited on August 17, 2008 at 6:38 PM. Reason : asdf ]

8/17/2008 6:37:08 PM

oh.

whoops.

lol.

you don't need fender parts, either...you could get a set of three knobs from allparts for like $8

8/17/2008 8:58:33 PM

we've got a little small local guitar store, i'm gonna go by there tomorrow after work and see what they have.. I need some new strings anyways. i bought two sets last time but broke that e string so i used the e string off the other set..meaning i didnt want to take them all off and fix what you told me to fix until i had a new set to put back on there so i need to go by there anyways

maybe that made since. too much wine tonight

8/17/2008 9:16:10 PM

i break high E's fairly regularly

so any time i go and buy strings (usually three sets at a time) i buy two or three extra high E's

8/17/2008 9:30:19 PM

I'm really not sure if this place sells individual strings.. if they do I'm def going to be buying quite a few. I'm not sure why I've started breaking so many lately. I guess my fingers are getting stronger again + the 3.0mm picks probably aren't helping + what you were talking about earlier

8/17/2008 9:43:50 PM

why the hell do you use 3 mm picks?

How do you get any touch sensitivity that way?

8/18/2008 2:04:00 PM

I use either 2mm or 3mm depending on the material. I cant go much lighter than 2mm (although 1mm Big Stubbys arent bad - I usually use 2mm Big Stubbys) for metal or it severely slows downmy speed picking stuff because the pick tip is moving too much and not at the same rate my hand is. The thicker picks also give a meatier sound on palm muted riffs.

[Edited on August 18, 2008 at 2:21 PM. Reason : ]

8/18/2008 2:19:32 PM

Everybody looks at me like I'm crazy but I really love them.. At first it's hard to have any sensitivity but after getting used to them I feel mono-toned with thin picks.. You learn to hold your fingers lose enough to pick lightly when needed or go all the way to what ^ is talking about and do things you can't do with skinny picks.

I dunno, just a personal choice.. I can't really feel when I hit strings with a thin pick like I can with the thick ones. Give them a try

And yep, that's what I use most of the time ^

Have you ever broken one? I haven't yet

8/18/2008 2:31:30 PM

broken a pick? No I never have. In fact the only reason I usually switch to a new pick is because A) (my most common reason) I lost one, B) I somehow didnt lose one for a very long time and have rounded out the tip - which has only happened a few times. They are extremely durable.

8/18/2008 2:35:07 PM

i've been using .88mm forever and i'll probably never change, but i find more and more that i'm not using a pick at all, even when playing hard double-stops and things like that

i'm always holding one while i play, but more often than not these days i'm gripping it between the base and first knuckle of my middle finger

8/18/2008 2:42:12 PM