Quote :

"measuring tolerances fanatically for a rebuild is generally over kill."

nonsense. maybe for any old beater, but if you're serious about making power and reliability it's extremely important. imo, engine parts are only as good as the person putting them together.

10/26/2009 10:35:13 PM

it makes a hell of a diference on engine life and power

to each his own i guess

10/28/2009 12:35:19 PM

measuring tolerances for a rebuild on something like a small block going in Grandma's Nova or maybe a 460 in a Grand Marquis (complete with 2-barrel) might be unnecessary...

But a certain degree of accuracy is absolutely necessary for a lil all-aluminum fourbanger.

10/28/2009 1:12:13 PM

I can't believe people are still fucking with hondas in this 21st century age of POWAR. Seriously guys, this is the golden age. You think the government is going to allow(or you'll be able to afford) 450hp stock engines, or 450hp period in 2015? Carpe diem, that's all I'm saying.

Meanwhile I'm jizzing my pants over the 2hp I'll gain when I finally get around to porting my 35 year old head.

10/28/2009 1:21:29 PM

Well, my Flux Capacitor design still has a few flaws that need ironing out. I've actually been trying to fuel it off of batshit lately. Where the hell is Doc when you need him?

On the flip side, I'm getting 1000 whp on my photon turbine powered motorsickle. Who knew light had so much energy?

10/28/2009 1:28:34 PM

I agree that tolerances are very important-if it's an application worth the trouble anyway. I think I spent a good 25 hours measuring and clearancing parts on my Rx-7, but only because it was a turbo engine. On a lower horsepower non turbo build I don't think it's as important, but to each his own.

A 1G 'Teg... well, it's good practice anyway. You wouldn't feel bad if you screwed it up.

10/28/2009 5:13:56 PM

I think the worst part was sizing the piston rings. I mean honestly its all easy. I don't even see why you would want to half ass it.

10/28/2009 5:23:01 PM

i've got the dyno graphs of two identical engines sitting beside me right now, the only difference being who assembled them. one makes 24 more rwhp and 16 more lbs./ft. rwtq. it also brings on the power sooner in the curve, and holds it a little longer. that's a fairly substantial difference.

10/28/2009 9:50:02 PM

The one that made more power was put together by me.

10/28/2009 10:09:19 PM

Also the break-in is critical, but that's a topic for a whole 'nother thread entirely

10/29/2009 12:20:38 AM

on dino oil, never synthetic

10/30/2009 12:44:35 PM

I always use Shell Rotella T 15W40 for break ins, just personal preference

11/2/2009 1:36:22 AM

I prefer lighter oils, like 5w20 or 5w30 for breakin. I change it QUICKLY too.

11/2/2009 1:26:35 PM

i just use the 5w30 supertech dino for breakin

11/3/2009 4:38:51 PM

i also use supertech. (not joking)

11/3/2009 5:15:48 PM

^ I believe it.

11/3/2009 6:22:29 PM

6030 miles on it. no problems!

11/3/2009 7:18:36 PM

its not bad for what it is

11/4/2009 1:50:45 PM

I used to use the carquest house brand oil...which is for all intents and purposes Valvoline...made by Ashland.

It doesn't matter if the shit's rocket fuel because breakin oil doesn't stay in the engine long.

11/4/2009 2:56:57 PM

the cheaper the better

11/5/2009 9:24:42 AM

^not always

11/5/2009 9:45:50 AM

always on breakin oil

11/5/2009 2:06:20 PM

supertech is a solid product!!!!!!!!!!!

11/6/2009 6:29:53 PM

it's made by penzoil iirc. i know their tcw3 ranks equal to and better than all of the high dollar/name brand crap.

11/6/2009 9:02:46 PM

^ thats what i run in the old jet ski and boat

hell, i've been running the penzoil synthetic 2 stroke in the sea-doo, fuck that $60 a gallon crap from the dealer

11/9/2009 9:41:11 AM