AH! gotcha. I like this much better, but the rest of my existing beams are buried so i don't know if it will look right. maybe slightly under dirt would be better.

I have a contractor coming out this afternoon to get me a quote. Hoping for a pretty good price.

5/30/2013 10:13:42 AM

Yeah, the old school way to build a deck was to bury the posts 3' and then surround them with concrete. Once the concrete dried cover with dirt. Definitely a viable option, but it makes the posts pretty much permanent. If you ever had to replace one, you'd have to dig out the post and concrete, which is nearly impossible if all you have is hand tools.

As a side note, I buried/concreted the corner posts for the fence around my garden. Where the fence is located, it's very highly unlikely that I would ever need to replace one. Plus if they warp it's not a big deal, since it's just a fence and I don't really care how it looks.

5/30/2013 10:18:22 AM

how far did down did you go with the deck footer? sorry if im asking alot of questions. i'm pretty handy with things like this but i have never done a deck.

5/30/2013 10:22:15 AM

Quote :

"never done a deck"

thats what she said

5/30/2013 10:27:25 AM

I dug my holes 2.5' deep. The conventional wisdom is to go 12" below the frost line. I am pretty sure the frost line in Raleigh is the same as Greensboro, 18". Clearly you would have to go deeper if you live in the mountains.

If I had an auger I may have gone deeper just to be safe, but I dug mine by hand.

[Edited on May 30, 2013 at 10:36 AM. Reason : a]

5/30/2013 10:30:05 AM

I suppose I can join the 'I'm building a deck' club as well, I've just been posting in old school with pics.

5/30/2013 5:30:41 PM

^yea man looks great!

5/30/2013 6:25:01 PM

Footings need to be 16x16x8 usually (pretty standard sizes here), on firm ground. Usually you only need to go down about 12 inches, and as long as the ground is solid, pour about 3 bags of quikrete and you're good. Posts don't even need the basecaps, just put some braces on them when they're level and start framing. But I didn't pay attention to the size so.. Bigger decks need wider, deeper footings.

5/30/2013 8:03:22 PM

just going to be adding 12X10

5/30/2013 9:25:24 PM

^^^thanks man.

It's just taking a while to build, only being able to work on it for an hour or so after work. Weekends are getting tough to work on it to because preplanned kid birthday parties.

Anyways, my posts are only 18-24" deep with 40# of sacrete per posts. No brackets, just sacrete. I've seen decks built on those precast 4x4 blocks. But, mine is nothing but a deck, no shelters or awnings. I don't foresee any foundation issues.

5/30/2013 10:22:31 PM

just read the nc codes and do it that way.

ask questions here when needed

5/31/2013 8:36:30 AM

wow those are some deep footings...

[Edited on May 31, 2013 at 9:11 AM. Reason : you only have to ensure that the bottom of the footing is 12" below grade in raleigh]

5/31/2013 9:09:39 AM

Do i need a permit for this? i called the permit office but they are all dicks in Oxford.

5/31/2013 9:21:20 AM

waco requires a permit for any accessory structure with a dimension >12' or area 144 sf. that's all I know. no clue about your county (or town if you're within limits).

try searching through here: http://oxfordnc.org/City%20of%20Oxford%20Zoning%20Ordinances.pdf

[Edited on May 31, 2013 at 9:26 AM. Reason : .]

5/31/2013 9:23:18 AM

I didn't get a permit for mine. TBH, I never even checked to see if I needed one. But I live back in the woods, so your situation is probably different.

5/31/2013 9:54:57 AM

Well, mine wasn't so much a footing, as it was just a hole dug out with a 1' auger 18" deep, post leveled, and pour half a bag of sacrete around it to just hold long enough for me to start nailing.

5/31/2013 10:10:49 AM

what are the code requirements for railing? i hate rails

5/31/2013 12:23:19 PM

rail posts spaced at 6'-0" on center maximum

5/31/2013 12:40:07 PM

actually, I think it's 8' OC for rail posts; though I would do no more than 6' OC.

36" min height with 30" or more drop. 4" max spacing between vertical pickets (6" if horizontal pickets) 4" max gap between bottom rail and decking

If rail posts are separate entities, then they must be attached with 2-3/8" galv nuts, bolts, & washers. I don't recall code listing a minimum, but it's typically 2 bolts/post.

[Edited on May 31, 2013 at 1:29 PM. Reason : .]

5/31/2013 1:26:09 PM

due to needing to withstand what i think is 50 lbs of force per foot along the railing and i think its 200 lbs of point load force we worked it out to no more than 6'-0" o.c. with the NC building code to meet those requirements

6/1/2013 2:57:24 PM

FUCCKKKK! $2450.00. this is crazy right? for a 12X10 addition,

looks like ill be doing this myself.

6/2/2013 1:41:30 AM

We would do it for about $1200-1500 (usually $10/ft is our ballpark). Unless you're using trex or something that's expensive, somebody's ripping you off a little.

6/2/2013 8:46:23 AM

^this is more of what I was expecting

this is a free standing deck no attachment to my brick. doesn't even have to worry about ledger board. i'm baffled.

[Edited on June 2, 2013 at 9:30 AM. Reason : edit]

6/2/2013 9:26:10 AM

Some areas aren't even allowing you to attach to brick anymore. I'm expecting that it becomes standard in the next revision to building code.

Who did you get the $2450 price from?

6/2/2013 8:32:06 PM

Got the quote from a company I found on Angies List. I just wanted to have something to work off but 2450 is crazy IMO. see below.


Hi,


12’ x 12’ deck, premium (not standard) grade decking and framing with stainless steel fasteners, new pickets as needed, new stair and hand railing as needed, new concrete footings at all in-ground support posts as required, free floating deck (not attached to any brick of the home) design as discussed; with center decking board to split deck board layout at approximately center of deck (negates need to pull up existing decking to integrate new to old decking boards) and remove/replace existing joist header where old stairs are to be removed (due to multiple nail holes/cut off nails from prior removal/and existing surface damage presently hidden by stairs.) This is a finished price to your satisfaction with all materials and labor. I will work with you to provide the best finished product I possibly can, and follow your designs exactly. There will be pressure treated posts in-ground at stair termination points to provide maximum support for all hand railings. 2”x8” joists w/hangers, and all pressure treated 4”x4” (rated for ground contact) posts for any post having ground contact.

If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.


$2450.00

[Edited on June 3, 2013 at 9:54 AM. Reason : quote ]

6/3/2013 9:51:17 AM

that is hard to follow....

but does this

Quote :

"with center decking board to split deck board layout at approximately center of deck (negates need to pull up existing decking to integrate new to old decking boards)"

mean he's putting new decking on top of or along with old decking?

Never, ever mix old and new wood, other than in the substructure where existing is still in excellent shape. And if you are replacing more than a few pieces of substructure, it's best to replace it all (I mean, a girder or joist here or there is ok, but if it gets to a sizeable portion, rip the shit out). If he's trying to save on demo costs, just do the demo yourself.

[Edited on June 3, 2013 at 1:44 PM. Reason : .]

6/3/2013 1:43:35 PM

it sounds more like he's trying to charge for all the deck boards and only use what he has to on the project.

6/3/2013 2:10:36 PM

My existing 12X10 is only 1 year old. I'm not demoing anything.

he is saying putting a vertical board to cover the connectionbetween the existing deck and the addition.

does this make sense?

6/3/2013 3:48:20 PM

Just out of curiosity, does anyone have any ballpark numbers for a screened in deck? I'm really just looking at budgetary numbers (I always try and do this for any projects I'm considering just to keep tabs/plan).

We currently have a 12'x16' deck. Assume the screened in deck is the same size (Do you typically demo the entire old deck or how often can you re-use the existing structure?). Insect netting under the deck boards. 1 Ceiling fan. Shed roof is fine since that is probably cheaper than a gable.

Does this provide enough info for someone to give a high-level estimate if anyone is familiar in here?

6/3/2013 5:12:17 PM

[Edited on June 3, 2013 at 5:25 PM. Reason : dont know how to put pictures]

6/3/2013 5:23:49 PM

^^^my bad; I thought you were replacing an older deck; obviously you wouldn't demo a 1 y/0 deck. So he just wants to run one board perpendicular to the rest to hide the transition? otherwise, all boards are running the same direction? that's a typical and easiest method. Though it's more work, I would like to see the two edge boards run the same direction as the center, which sort of frames out the deck :

------
||||||
------
||||||
------

Then you paint/stain all edge decking boards and the center decking board a different color than the rest of the decking. /deck designer

^^that's a loaded question. From scratch, probably $20-$30/sf? (includes substructure, decking, screening, and roofing). Changing a deck to a screened porch that is attached to another structure? $$$. If you're taking a currently covered deck/porch and just wanting to screen it, it is relatively cheap, depending on the screening system you choose. I wish I would have used a panel style, rather than staple and trim style. Morans also didn't put any netting under the decking.

You can often reuse the structure - but that depends on if it is currently covered or not. If not, I'd imagine you'd have to beef up or redo the structure. If it's already covered, the existing structure will work just fine; in fact there should be no to little demo. Maybe modification, but no demo.


[Edited on June 4, 2013 at 9:17 AM. Reason : .]

6/4/2013 9:08:34 AM

Thanks. And yeah I know it's a loaded question, that's why I was just asking for ballpark numbers for budgetary purposes.

Our deck is not covered currently (and I assume more often than not, an existing structure for a non-covered deck is not setup to be converted to a covered deck easily - mainly from a load standpoint). If it was covered already, I'd just screen it in myself. Being covered would be the main reason we'd consider doing this at some point. It's just that if I was having someone build a covered deck I'd also go ahead and have them screen it in. It would be nice if they could reuse the existing structure but that is probably more wishful thinking.

6/4/2013 9:24:04 AM

Neighbor just did a 14x12 with cover/screen, 2 doors (1 leading to a side uncovered extension for the grill). Roof has tongue and groove siding and 2 skylights.

~20k including old deck demo.

6/4/2013 11:01:35 AM

that sounds extremely high. if it's that expensive, then I must not remember those figures correctly.

6/4/2013 1:17:41 PM

going to do this myself. might take me a month but at least i will not get hosed.

6/5/2013 3:33:16 PM

Is the maximum height of a post only 6' when using 6x6 posts? Or is that just the maximum height without using knee braces?

The house we are buying has a steep drop off in the back. Our plan is to wrap a deck from the carport around the house, since we don't have a door in the back of the house (yet, but that's a year two or three project). I really don't want to have a step down as the deck wraps around the house, but finished grade to our proposed deck height is approx 9' (up against the house) and close to 12' extended away from the house...

Edit: Nevermind... Missed table AM108 the first time through, that says 20' max height for 6x6, so I assume 6' is max height w/o knee bracing.




[Edited on July 2, 2013 at 2:45 PM. Reason : .]

7/2/2013 2:37:02 PM

It depends on how the post is anchored.

I would think that it's fine to do it around 6', all the decks I design or review have it much lower to the ground, but we have to keep it uniform.

7/3/2013 2:00:32 PM

In theory, what would happen if one did not permit/inspect a deck improvement?

Let's say, I was interested in purchasing a house, and the current owners/sellers doubled the size of their deck two years ago, without having it permitted.

11/30/2013 1:36:14 PM

Typically the installers try to convince homeowners that a permit is not needed, to save themselves some money and from someone looking over their work to ensure that they're meeting proper building codes.

If the homeowners did the install themselves they may have not known if a permit is required.

If you're not local then there is the possibility that a permit is not required to build/upgrade a deck.

11/30/2013 2:31:58 PM

^this.

just give it a look yourself, walk around on it, jump on it, try to stress it. Your normal home inspector should have enough competence to let you know if there is a major issue or not.

[Edited on December 2, 2013 at 9:21 AM. Reason : monday]

12/2/2013 9:21:12 AM

a couple of deck questions:

1.) is there any good way to spruce up old, gray, splintery wood? my deck has gray composite on top (rails and floor), but the wood frame looks rough...power wash and paint (thinking white) or stain?

2.) the deck has old wood balusters and for some reason the guy who built it, who owned the house before me, decided nails were preferable to screws (or maybe that's what you're supposed to do, but that seems lazy and cheap)...anyway, a good 25% of them have fallen or are in the process of falling off and i don't really like them, anyway, so i'm thinking of putting something else in...specifically, horizontal conduit



i thought i'd read something about that being against code, though, as it makes it ladderlike and encourages climbing? otherwise, i assume it just has to be 4-inch centers between them

my intent is for this to be a semi-temporary fix, as i would like to replace the deck eventually and have it done well the first time

6/25/2014 1:02:20 PM

those gaps look larger than 4"

6/25/2014 1:13:46 PM

i suspect you're right...but it was just an example to illustrate what i was talking about

is this better?

6/25/2014 1:54:14 PM

I like that industrial look. Nails are normal and easier, if using a nail gun. I prefer screws (one reason being that I don't have a nail gun). Though most jackasses have the power on them way too high and bury the nails 1/4" - 1/2". Nails should be just below the wood surface, if not flush.

you can have horizontal pickets, and the spacing is 6" OC

as for the wood - power wash, then paint or use a solid stain. Could also use those "deck restoration" paints that are really thick. If the wood is in that pad of shape, I think normal or restoration paint is the way to go; if after washing the wood is OK, stains would be fine.

NC deck code:

http://ecodes.biz/ecodes_support/free_resources/2012NorthCarolina/Residential/Part_I_Residential/PDFs/AppM_NC_Res_2012.pdf

[Edited on June 25, 2014 at 3:36 PM. Reason : .]

6/25/2014 3:32:22 PM

wow, I didn't know they allowed 6" gaps. they totally misinterpreted the intention of R312.3

6/25/2014 3:38:02 PM

haha, no kidding?

I would likely look at 4" spacing... just because some dumb home or county inspector may give you trouble for it because they don't know the code, or don't care. Unless you want to fight... you'd win, but sometimes it's not worth the battle, depending on how ornery the inspector is.

6/25/2014 3:44:12 PM

if you have kids (or are planning to) do 4" anyways just for safety

6/25/2014 3:48:39 PM

okay, i still haven't done what i posted about (replacing balusters) and we've decided to just tear down the deck we have because the guy who built it really didn't do a very good job and the 2-level design has just created two smaller, less useful decks rather than one larger one

top deck is currently 6x10 and the lower is 10x12 (they're offset from each other, too)

now the question that i'm sure i know the answer to: do i need to get a new permit if i'm tearing it all down to build a 16x20 with a 10x10 gazebo?

also, i think this will look good when it's done, but it seems like a lot of space...what do y'all think? to the left will be a patio with built-in fire pit



this is on about an acre of land, of which the backyard is about half and partly wooded, so i don't think it will look too big for the house or anything

[Edited on February 9, 2015 at 1:40 PM. Reason : .]

2/9/2015 1:37:33 PM

yes to the permit. A permit is required when any dimension of a structure is greater than 12' or if the cost of the work is greater than $5,000. A Licensed GC is required for work costing $30,000 or more.

[Edited on February 9, 2015 at 4:04 PM. Reason : .]

2/9/2015 4:01:35 PM

is it in the backyard where no one will see it? if so, then fuck a permit.

2/9/2015 8:34:52 PM