Answer me this...
2000 Toyota 4Runner, 6-cylinder, Automatic, 4WD, Green, Infinity subwoofer, cherry air fresheners clipped into the vents.

Towards the end of November my "ABS" light started popping up intermittently on the dash. It became more frequent and it was staying on full time by mid-December. In addition, I started noticing a funky burning smell coming from the truck after driving it. It really wasn't like any smell I could recognize; like a mix of burning plastic and oil. I popped the hood and sniffed around, but couldn't find the source. I crawled around underneath and checked all the brake calipers and wheel bearings, but none felt hot. I just couldn't seem to track it down.

I did, however, notice that my transmission fluid didn't look as bright as fresh fluid would be. It did not, however, smell burned. I did a couple of trans fluid drain and fills about four years ago using synthetic fluid and I've only put about 35k miles on it since then. (two drain and fills is supposed to replace something like 87% of the fluid in the trans on these trucks).

Two weeks ago I replaced the coolant and did another drain and fill on the trans. The ABS light went off immediately and hasn't come back on. It was literally on during my trip to the auto parts store/home and it was gone the first time I cranked the truck after swapping coolant/trans fluid. The smell also seems to have disappeared. I did a second drain and fill last weekend as a follow up.

What gives? I can think of a few questionable things...
- Is it possible the ABS light was tied to my transmission fluid somehow?
- Maybe there is a brake problem that will come back. I'd be ok with brakes causing the smell. I just want the transmission to be ok.
- Could something be going on in the transmission that would cause the fluid to fail prematurely? I really didn't think I was pushing the limits of synthetic transmission fluid at 35k miles. I do a little towing, but mostly short trips and I doubt I've logged more than 350 miles with a boat in tow.


TLDR; Truck had burning smell and ABS light was on. Changed trans fluid and ABS light went off/funky smell went away.

[Edited on January 15, 2013 at 10:51 AM. Reason : s]

1/15/2013 10:47:36 AM

Anyone on here have access to vehicle history reports? Hoping not to shell out $40 for 1 report.

1/17/2013 9:40:29 AM

Also, opinions on an '03 audi a4 with 100k miles?

[Edited on January 17, 2013 at 10:29 AM. Reason : T1.8 quattro 6spd manual]

1/17/2013 10:12:13 AM

Skack, I'd trace down the ABS wires from all 4 wheels, but specifically paying attention to the rear since they may run over the trans and look for burnt/caught ABS wiring that may run near the trans.

1/17/2013 12:26:11 PM

Just to add, check the ABS wiring on the front and be sure they aren't routed right against the caliper. The rear may be a single sensor on top of the diff that could run near the trans because IIRC I believe these are 3-channel ABS.

1/17/2013 1:04:41 PM

I wish I had pulled the code for the ABS light while it was on. I just assumed it would still be on after the trans fluid/coolant maintenance. My cheapy OBDII reader didn't detect it, but there was a way to jumper some fuses and get a flashing code on the dash to give some insight into the failure that was detected.

I'll check the wires for any signs of a short the next time the weather is decent. For now everything seems fine.

1/17/2013 1:52:56 PM

I have an automotive question. My truck lugs like a mofo. under normal driving practices and it really grinds my gears. (No pun intended)
1994 Toyota pickup
3.0 V-6. 5 speed
163,000 miles
My truck sits parked about 3 days a week because I travel for work. It doesn't get enough highway miles I'm sure.
Here's what happens. I take off in first gear and then change to second at somewhere between 2500 and 2750 rpm. When I hit second, I let out the clutch and it chugs along and jerks for a few seconds. Same thing with 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. I can usually combat this by shifting at about 3500 rpm, but that just hurts my gas mileage and doesn't really fix the problem.
So far I have:
Cleaned air filter
Replaced fuel filter
Used up pretty much all my gas and filled up with 93 octane
Put Seafoam in gas tank
Cleaned throttle body with carb cleaner
Replace spark plugs maybe 4 or 5 years ago
Nothing seems to help. I was told there could be some kind of buildup in cylinders from sitting a few days a week. Besides a 1000 mile roadtrip, what else could I do to keep it from lugging? I don't think it is a transmission mount issue by the way.

1/20/2013 11:55:06 AM

Got an 2002 Accord; it has been sitting all week and got dumped on by snow and ice. Where its parked is in the shade so I moved it this weekend for the sun to melt all the snow. Well after two days I get in and lower left side of the inside windshield is covered in condensation. I wipe it away and drive to dinner; get back in and the condensation was back.

Do I have a leak or standing water somewhere in the car? I'm just real nervous after this heater gremlin I have dealt with.

1/20/2013 10:12:49 PM

It's possible.

1/21/2013 11:30:29 PM

Sorry if this has been asked before. Are Daytime Running Lights required to pass an inspection in NC?

I had one go out on my truck and when I replaced both of them, they both stopped working. Just wondering if I need to fix them first.

1/22/2013 8:00:54 AM

No they're not.

And fuck DRL, they're nothing but trouble.

1/22/2013 8:17:18 AM

Thanks

1/22/2013 8:37:22 AM

Probably a stupid question but I'll ask anyway. Need to replace the window regulator/motor in my '97 Crown Vic. Of course it's riveted in place. I'm ok with drilling out the rivets to remove it, but when it comes to putting it back in, I don't want to buy a rivet gun just for this one application. Is there any problem with using similarly-sized bolts?

1/22/2013 12:51:36 PM

Nope, done it before. Just be sure the bolts have loctite or lockwashers on them to keep them from working loose and be sure the bolthead or nut has enough clearance. Nothing like a loose bolt or slop in the regulator to lock up the window.

1/22/2013 3:58:33 PM

Quote :

"I have an automotive question. My truck lugs like a mofo. under normal driving practices and it really grinds my gears. (No pun intended) 1994 Toyota pickup 3.0 V-6. 5 speed 163,000 miles My truck sits parked about 3 days a week because I travel for work. It doesn't get enough highway miles I'm sure. Here's what happens. I take off in first gear and then change to second at somewhere between 2500 and 2750 rpm. When I hit second, I let out the clutch and it chugs along and jerks for a few seconds. Same thing with 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. I can usually combat this by shifting at about 3500 rpm, but that just hurts my gas mileage and doesn't really fix the problem. So far I have: Cleaned air filter Replaced fuel filter Used up pretty much all my gas and filled up with 93 octane Put Seafoam in gas tank Cleaned throttle body with carb cleaner Replace spark plugs maybe 4 or 5 years ago Nothing seems to help. I was told there could be some kind of buildup in cylinders from sitting a few days a week. Besides a 1000 mile roadtrip, what else could I do to keep it from lugging? I don't think it is a transmission mount issue by the way. "

anyone?

1/27/2013 1:46:49 PM

Clutch.

1/27/2013 4:24:12 PM

Yes drl, if equipped is required to work.

1/27/2013 6:26:55 PM

how do you know if it's equipped if both of them are out?

1/27/2013 6:33:45 PM

If its a GM it has them

1/27/2013 7:28:13 PM

those motherfuckers stay burned out

1/27/2013 9:58:57 PM

Tell me about it

1/27/2013 11:01:54 PM

Quote :

"Yes drl, if equipped is required to work."

According to who? Disabling DRLs is a fairly popular mod.

1/28/2013 8:31:16 AM

2000 BMW M Coupe.

When I start her up, before I even move, if I just ever so slightly give her a little throttle (~1k RPM) while my foot is fully on the clutch, the car will stall. If I start her up, give her a couple revs (~2-3k RPM), the problem goes away entirely. Similarly, if I turn it on real fast, back up out of a spot, and lightly begin to accelerate (total on time under 10 seconds), the RPMs will flutter back down to around 1k unless I begin to put more gas into it as I go to accelerate and take my foot off the clutch.

Im a n00b but it's almost as if I need to toss some fuel in there? Ideas? After 15 seconds, it runs flawlessly, but it seems like it wants a little gas when turned on, or for me to wait ~30 seconds before touching anything if i want it to act normal. It does not seem to do better or worse depending on the weather, so it's not a cold start thing.

1/29/2013 12:48:15 AM

According to DMV. Putting neons on your car and tinting the windows below 32% is popular but it's still illegal.

Driving lights are located in a corner marker assembly and or head lamp assembly which in nc are required to work. Therefore dlr bulbs must work the only bulb on the out side of a care that are not required to work are reverse and fog lamp bulbs

1/29/2013 8:09:56 PM

interesting to know. but I'd still willingly violate it for that gay ass shit.

1/29/2013 8:20:00 PM

That's why most people mod cars/trucks

1/29/2013 10:02:43 PM

anyway to get a discount from summit/jegs?

i'm about to order about 5k worth of shit from them and it would be cool if i could save a couple bucks.

1/31/2013 4:14:31 PM

best source for audi parts?

1/31/2013 7:36:48 PM

Quote :

" tinting the windows below 32% is popular but it's still illegal."

Actually its 35% but there is a 3% margin of error.

2/2/2013 4:23:39 PM

^so 32%

2/2/2013 4:40:08 PM

91 Ford E350 V8 7.5 gas.

Wont start
Cant shift out of park on column, but can shift on gearbox.
Has 2 batteries, in series, both good (one brand new).
Each battery has a solenoid replaced in past two weeks.
Replaced starter with refurbed one last week.
Only one solenoid engages with key turn (clunks).
Other solenoid had no juice at signal wire with key turned.
Engine will slowly turn over if posts on solenoid #2 are shorted, but no start.
Nearly full tank of gas, engine not trying to turn over by key.

2/2/2013 6:00:05 PM

^ignition switch, bro.

column shifter is locked in place until ignition switch can unlock it.. just my gander.

upon second review... batteries in parallel, bro. double your amperage. Series = 24VDC.

[Edited on February 2, 2013 at 6:48 PM. Reason : -]

2/2/2013 6:48:04 PM

Key cylinder does move the rod...not sure about switch.

Like i said one solenoid does go clunk when key move to on position.

Not sure i know what you mean by the amperage thing.

Btw...bus has worked with only one battery for a while

2/2/2013 7:23:50 PM

he's saying that you shouldn't wire the batteries in series. you are putting 24VDC across a 12VDC starter. wire them in parallel and you have 12VDC like you're supposed to.



herp derp lectrics

[Edited on February 2, 2013 at 8:50 PM. Reason : sadf]

2/2/2013 8:45:47 PM

Both negs are grounded to frame
Both positives are connected to a solenoid and each other

2/2/2013 11:10:51 PM

I may post pics tomorrow

2/2/2013 11:16:08 PM

well then that isn't series

2/3/2013 9:43:06 AM

I know that now

2/3/2013 10:34:32 AM

NOMENCLATURE!

it kills!

2/3/2013 11:08:19 AM

Anybody second the ignition switch?
Any other ideas?

2/3/2013 5:42:56 PM

I'm looking at buying a nice '94 hardbody from this guy on CL and I want to put a 3" lift on it, what do you think i'm in for as far as kit/cost/time? never done a body lift

ditto for any hardbody or similar toyota 4x4, even S10 or Ranger. narrowed my new commuter/multipurpose search to small 4x4 pickup. Seen some nicer ones that are stock but I'll need a little lift on it

[Edited on February 3, 2013 at 8:57 PM. Reason : asdf]

2/3/2013 8:36:32 PM

why does my fan motor in my dash sound like a sustained fart now?

i didnt tape no baseball card in them spokes.

2/3/2013 9:35:55 PM

suck in some leaves?

2/3/2013 9:40:17 PM

probably.

thanks obama.

2/3/2013 9:45:14 PM

Quote :

"Anybody second the ignition switch? Any other ideas?"

bypass the switch and use a screwdriver to jump from the solenoids.

to check switch/solenoids, hook up a volt meter to the sensing post on the solenoid and make sure it is getting 12V when the key is turned. Solenoids are cheap.

2/4/2013 7:50:18 AM

what the fuck is a test light?

2/4/2013 7:57:27 AM

just a small shitty electrical tester. has a lead that you touch to a wire or power source. If the light comes on, you have voltage.

2/4/2013 9:55:16 AM

sorry i didn't type enough sarcasm into that post

2/4/2013 10:11:18 AM

No flow tosolenoid wire using multimeter or test light.

2/4/2013 10:59:43 AM

so that would point towards ignition switch

2/4/2013 11:18:55 AM