^havent rode the 9 yet, needs tires and a belt. Probably will get it on the road for the next season.

On a related note, here is a custom based on a 1125r with the scoops removed

12/2/2010 12:46:30 AM

So, who's put their bike into hibernation for the winter? I get all when I look at my bikes in the garage.

12/2/2010 10:27:41 PM

I thought the drive belts were supposed to last 60k miles

12/2/2010 11:33:13 PM

Quote :

"So, who's put their bike into hibernation for the winter? I get all when I look at my bikes in the garage."

What's winter hibernation? I have no garage, I cover it up occasionally, but for the most part my bike gets ridden all winter whenever it's above freezing. I'm in TN though, so it doesn't get overly cold here

12/3/2010 12:48:49 AM

"Winterizing" = weaksauce. Get out there and freeze your nuts off with the rest of us idiots.

12/3/2010 8:45:59 AM

^

12/3/2010 9:00:49 AM

Keeping them running is the best thing that you can do

12/3/2010 11:27:07 AM

i dont mind bein out there with icy balls but the colder it gets the more i realize just how much my vtx hates cold. I love a carburetor but damn i could definitely go for some injection right about now

either gotta fight stalling it for miles or ride it choked which of course makes it run rich and i get a ton of popping and backfire

anything specific i should work on first? anyone had any luck with block heaters? I keep it garaged but it still wants to be warmer to run smooth off the bat.

[Edited on December 3, 2010 at 11:36 AM. Reason : sfdfsf]

12/3/2010 11:32:23 AM

Check them valves

12/3/2010 11:42:47 AM

it definitely is due for a valve adjustment

12/3/2010 12:10:23 PM

Let warm up before you ride it around.

12/3/2010 1:55:55 PM

Just changed my oil to handle the cold weather. The good news is I can jet to really dump that gas in the winter!

12/3/2010 5:44:12 PM

Check the A/F mix on the VTX as well. if it was lean before, it's gonna be super lean now that the air is colder and denser, which will simply compound the problem.

12/4/2010 10:18:53 AM

Speaking of valves, are there any local places that would stock common Honda valve shims?

12/4/2010 1:00:50 PM

Quote :

"Let warm up before you ride it around."

oh i do. but sometimes i don't have time or it isn't appropriate (bike is loud and i live in a "nice" complex) to let it idle up to temp. always warms up for at least as long as it takes me to gear up for the cold, usually longer. if it's REAL cold it doesn't seem to matter how long I let it warm up, it's gonna fight me until I put a couple miles on it

Quote :

"Check the A/F mix on the VTX as well. if it was lean before, it's gonna be super lean now that the air is colder and denser, which will simply compound the problem."

it was actually just about right in the warm season, maybe just a hair on the rich side. I think I'm getting a decent mix, but I'll check that when I pull out that PAIR valve here in a few days. maybe in the meantime i'll pull the plugs after i kill it at speed and see what they look like

sucker has four of them

[Edited on December 4, 2010 at 1:13 PM. Reason : asdf]

12/4/2010 1:10:19 PM

My Marauder is the same way. I was just looking at a trade for an '04 f4i for the fuel injection, but I really like the Marauder. Let it choke for a few minutes, but it will have a mean stutter for a few miles almost no matter what. Aggravating definitely, since I only have a few minute ride across campus but oh well. I've been getting 14.5 mpg in my truck, so it's still worth it to ride the bike. Hoping to get a windshield soon. One hour at 80 mph when it's 45 degrees is bad enough, 35 is gonna be even worse.

12/5/2010 4:21:34 PM

Megasquirt it.

12/5/2010 10:41:40 PM

its cold as balls outside. my hat's off to you guys willing to ride in these temperatures.

12/5/2010 11:31:41 PM

With coat/pants/gloves/boots/balaclava, 32 feels no different than 70. You just can't move for shit.

12/6/2010 12:33:43 AM

Even in cold weather i'd rather ride without a windshield...the buffetting and added wind resistance is more aggravating to me than sheer cold

12/6/2010 4:15:02 AM

My old kat didn't seem to run on all 4 for at least the first 5 minutes in the winter, a problem when work is only 4 minutes away.

12/6/2010 11:40:19 AM

thinking about selling the bandit 1250. i have come to the conclusion that there are 2 ways for me to ride. one way is too dangerous the other is not fun its a case of no discipline

12/6/2010 5:18:38 PM

Quote :

"thinking about selling the bandit 1250."

catzor just checked his bank account

12/6/2010 5:45:06 PM

I'm telling you all, the Firstgear Thermo suit is what you want for cold weather riding.

12/6/2010 5:57:01 PM

how hard is it to add running lights to a motorcycle or scooter? before anyone/everyone starts with the comments about how lame it is, i'm not really planning on doing it...but i AM curious

i have a string of those harsh white LED christmas lights (the tiny ones) that i picked up from lowe's for $0.33 and i was just thinking about things to do with them...started thinking about running lights and then i was trying to figure out how you'd do it, with the idea that it'd be pretty easy since they're extremely low power (and so it shouldn't take much off the battery on a newer vehicle)...how would you arrange it so that it only came on when the bike was on (or, rather, when the headlights are on)?

[Edited on December 15, 2010 at 10:46 AM. Reason : .]

12/15/2010 10:39:38 AM

Don't you have a Rebel 450? I don't know much about those, but I bet they have the same shitty charging system as most old Hondas.

12/15/2010 11:14:01 AM

^^Not exactly sure what you're going for, but I wouldn't consider anything "lame" that adds a reasonable amount of visibility without being obnoxious. That said, you can do it one of a couple ways, depending on the light system:

If it's designed for AC use and not a vehicle I would avoid it, but you could use a small 12v inverter and plug them into that. The inverter could be switched through a relay that's triggered off of either the ignition circuit or the headlamp circuit, and powered through a 10A or so fused connection to the battery.

If you want to wire up a set of those 12v lights that they sell at the auto parts stores and stuff, you would just use the relay powered and triggered the same way.

[Edited on December 15, 2010 at 12:07 PM. Reason : .]

12/15/2010 12:06:32 PM

Quote :

"Don't you have a Rebel 450? I don't know much about those, but I bet they have the same shitty charging system as most old Hondas."

not any more (all i have now is the 110cc honda import), but you're right...i wouldn't try to use the electrical for anything but the bare minimum to make the bike run

Quote :

"Not exactly sure what you're going for, but I wouldn't consider anything "lame" that adds a reasonable amount of visibility without being obnoxious."

i've entertained the idea semi-seriously for a couple of years (especially when i was putting around on a 50cc because the complete inability to keep up with traffic was pretty scary), but at those times, i had envisioned a bottom-mounted string (or one on each side) of cold white light that would illuminate the footprint...nothing flashy or above the deck

Quote :

"If it's designed for AC use and not a vehicle I would avoid it, but you could use a small 12v inverter and plug them into that."

it's your run-of-the-mill indoor/outdoor christmas lights with a fuse in the plug itself...one of the smaller strings with only 50 lights on it...would the device Ernie posted do the trick? what's the catch? if the lights are meant for 12v AC, the battery is 12v, and i use the thing above (is it an inverter, then?), what's the biggest concern? i'm not really worried about draw on the electrical system since they're extremely low power

i've got a kill-a-watt i can hook them up to in order to figure out how much they draw if that would help

12/15/2010 1:07:10 PM

With the AC deal, the input is going to be 120v, and the inverter steps up the vehicle's 12v DC to 120v AC. The device posted above is just a weatherproof 12v outlet, which is fine if the device uses that. What you're talking about doesn't, so it would require a bit more creativity.

If you just want to add some visibility without any redneck engineering, check out some of the weatherproof neon tubes or LED rope lights that are designed to work on 12v vehicle systems. Those will get you what you want without any odd hacks, and they can be had for very cheap on eBay.

Just an example, but something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-WHITE-Clear-LED-Rope-Light-66-ft-Holiday-Light-/260706313319?pt=Lamps_US&hash=item3cb34ea467
or this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/white-96CM-PVC-NEON-Strip-Light-12V-96-LED-Lamp-Bulb-/330507833429?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf3cd5055

Something like those would be cheap, safe, and appropriate for the application.

12/15/2010 1:54:20 PM

those little christmas lights probably draw more than you think they do, even though they're LED...i'd stick with the advice here and go with purpose-built 12V, potentially save you some headaches in the long-run when you're dealing with lower current stator systems

12/15/2010 2:08:19 PM

awesome...thanks for the advice!

12/15/2010 2:47:58 PM

^ Ernie I'm too focused on blowing money of my cb175 parts to be worried about bandits. You know me though, I'm always eye-balling the next toy I can't really afford.

In similar news, my 175 top end is with the machinist for a quick cylinder hone, valve job, and - I couldn't help myself - a head shave. No major compression boost, but it's something. Everything is painted up and I'm ready to start making it look like a motorcycle again.

12/15/2010 5:47:44 PM

Wait a minute... professional maintenance? Absurd!

The 750 was bogging down a bit recently, so I pulled the air filter and shit was nasty. Scrubbed it pretty good and pulled off plenty of old oil and gas (that's probably not a good sign). She's running great now, but I went ahead and ordered a new one anyway.

12/16/2010 3:22:21 PM

Made a bid on a ZX-6R.

Just sold the S2000...will probably put the SV-650 in the for-sale lot on base next week when I go back to work.

12/20/2010 7:26:17 PM

im very highly considering selling my street bike because the street just doesn't appeal much to me anymore. i have a VERY clean and rare example zx6r if you're interested

12/21/2010 8:55:47 AM

Question, but now that I am moving to the city, I am thinking about a motorcycle. I don't have one and have only gotten on one a few times, but I would love to look into getting one for commuting. I don't think I am going to commute much farther than from Hillsborough to Chapel Hill, and parking permits are dirt cheap and spots are pretty close to my office for a motorcycle.

What am I looking price and maintenance wise for a starter bike, and any suggestions on what to look at? I don't want a crotch rocket and I want something that will be efficient, but I don't want to get run over if I get on 40. Don't know if it is even worth the hassle, b/c I have a truck for commuting now, but it would be nice to have the flexibility if the truck is having issues to just take the bike, or when its nicer outside. Obviously right now I think I'd be driving the truck and deal with the park and ride situation.

[Edited on December 21, 2010 at 11:07 AM. Reason : ]

12/21/2010 11:06:29 AM

Progress!

12/21/2010 11:14:50 AM

^^A starter bike is going to be a "crotch rocket" (sportbike) or a cruiser. Comfortable commuting is going to be a standard/touring bike, neither of which really have many "starter" offerings. In any category, there's not really anything that's going to get you run over on the interstate. Even the oft-derided 250cc bikes will fare just fine.

Budget is pretty important in making a suggestion, so what are you looking to spend?

12/21/2010 11:56:00 AM

I don't know, that's why I was asking. I guess probably $1k or so to start off, if that will get me something that is reliable and won't get stolen if I get a 2nd or 3rd story apartment that I can't park a bike in.

12/21/2010 3:31:58 PM

It'll be hard to find a reliable commuter at that price, and you'll definitely be looking at old bikes.

I got lucky with my CB750. Seller was asking $1200, I paid $900. A few minor problems, but nothing I haven't been able to fix.

Your best bet is to watch craigslist like a hawk.

12/21/2010 3:37:01 PM

Well, call it a sign from the cosmos, but a honda Nighthawk would make a fantastic commuter bike. My first bike was a cb250 nighthawk and I'd kill a mother fucker to have it back. It gets the best mpg of the 250s (75+) and it couldn't get any simpler mechanically. And they're DIRT cheap. However, a lack of power makes highway riding difficult and uncomfortable for more than 10 miles or so. For a little more money, you can get the 750 version. It's all the same comfort and simplicity of the 250, but with 4-cylinder smoothness and better brakes(big downfall of the 250) and self adjusting valves. They're also pretty damn cheap for what you get. Sub-2k will bring you a very healthy specimen. Both bikes remained the same mechanically for their entire production lifespan, so don't sweat an early 90s model. Both have very flat, predicable power delivery and the same standard ergonomics. Great for inspiring confidence and being livable on a day-to-day basis.

If homeboy speaks truth, this is an awesome deal: http://greensboro.craigslist.org/mcy/2081709783.html

[Edited on December 21, 2010 at 3:54 PM. Reason : .]

12/21/2010 3:51:33 PM

As stated, $1k really won't get you much that doesn't involve a fair amount of wrenching or restoration to get running reliably. Occasionally you can find something spectacular, but you'll have to watch CL like a hawk and be ready to jump on it immediately. Not something I'd recommend for the inexperienced, considering what a money pit you can end up with if you're wrong.

I'd recommend upping your budget to at least $2-2.5k, and look for a decent mid-late 90's fuel injected bike. Suzuki SV650N(not S), GS500F, or a DRZ400 are all good beginner choices that kinda fit your criteria. If you're more of a cruiser type, the Yamaha V-Star and Honda Shadow or Rebel are decent starter bikes.

Probably the best thing you can do in your position is find a community college that offers the MSF Basic Rider Course. They provide bikes in a variety of styles, so you can kinda see what fits you best while you learn on them.

12/21/2010 4:28:45 PM

meh bought that virago for 1000 and it was a solid bike until i knowingly ran it into the ground. definitely required some occasional tooling here and there, but only had to take it to a shop once (if you don't count the time it spent in Jeepman's garage). good way to learn to work on a bike, no sense in spending a lot of money on a bike you're just going to make a bunch of mistakes on

i learned to ride on a nighthawk 750, if you can find one in good shape for ~1k jump on it

12/21/2010 6:12:43 PM

I think $1000 will buy you a solid bike if you are willing to ride something older (like 1980s, or maybe early 90s), especially if you buy in the winter. You might have to be patient and look around some, though.

Quote :

"^^A starter bike is going to be a "crotch rocket" (sportbike) or a cruiser. Comfortable commuting is going to be a standard/touring bike, neither of which really have many "starter" offerings. "

No, no, no, no no. There is no such thing as a crotch rocket that's a good starter bike. They are just varying levels of bad. Conversely, the very BEST starter bikes are standards...an older "UJM" (universal japanese motorcycle) is the best thing to learn on.


if you want something sporty, I agree, an SV650 is a pretty choice (although I personally think it's at the upper end of the performance spectrum that you really should get for your first bike, although the upside is that it's a hot enough bike to keep you occupied for years to come). $2000 will pick you up a pretty decent one.

I will sell mine for $2500.

12/21/2010 10:57:28 PM

Buy my '02 Vulcan:

Clean title.
Reliable
Shaft drive
Self-adjusting valves
No major cosmetic defects (eg tank dents)
New enough that most shops will work on it (I've encountered many shops that refuse to work on bikes older than 15 years)

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/mcy/2116821360.html


[Edited on December 22, 2010 at 9:32 AM. Reason : 02]

12/22/2010 9:31:31 AM

^^Most people see something like the SV650 and think "crotch rocket", so I generally assume they mean anything that's not a cruiser. I wouldn't advocate a GSX-R or a CBR or anything similar as a starter bike.

^That would be a good choice

[Edited on December 22, 2010 at 10:41 AM. Reason : .]

12/22/2010 10:40:02 AM

tell me why i should not buy a polaris rzr to fart around with at busco... fuckers look fun.

12/22/2010 5:16:06 PM

Because they're like ten thousand dollars.
That's the only reason I don't own one.

12/23/2010 12:52:16 PM

CB175 project update:





I'm getting very close to getting the chassis ready for my rebuilt engine. The clubmans you can see in the pic were a real bitch to wire, but I'm proud of the way they came out. It's really the only mod I'm doing to the bike(stock bars were bent), but it'll be cool having my little touch to separate me from the leagues of other cb175s out there cruising the streets right now...

I was going to run the questionable tires that I have now, but I found a deal on some michelins that allowed me to get front/rear, two tubes, and two rims strips for just under $60, so I'll be tearing the wheels off again next week to install the new rubber and clean the rims really well.

I'd also like to upgrade the absurdly soft suspension. The front can be handled by a stack of washers and some heavy fork oil, so that's no big deal. The shocks, however, are a little more challenging. There are lots of pricey-ass upgrades out there for the ARHMA crowd, but I think something a little stiffer is all I'm after. If anyone has some one eye-to-clevis shocks around(12-13in length), holla.

In conclusion, I'm sure no one gives a shit, but I like having a little documentation. TWW is my (moto)blog.

12/24/2010 11:29:45 PM

setemup

12/24/2010 11:39:40 PM