Quote :

"Turning a Railroad Spike Into An Awesome Knife"

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=982_1341733135

Cool vid.

7/8/2012 11:30:25 PM

More thread hogging.
This is the first thing I've ever made using leather. It was intimidating at first but once I got started it really wasn't bad. It came out pretty good though I wish the fit was just a tiny bit tighter. The knife will slip out if you hold it upside down and shake it hard.

7/13/2012 11:08:26 PM

Quote :

"The Ranger (bigger one in all the pics) starts at $200 with A2 steel, plain black canvas or linen micarta, and regular satin finish. Overall length is around 8.75" with a blade length of around 4". Here's a list of options: -CPM 3V +$30 -Hand rubbed satin finish +$45 -KG Gunkote finish +$25. I have satin black and "stainless" Gunkote on hand but will get other colors if requested. -Green canvas micarta +$5 (almost an olive drab color). I can get other colors or materials but the added price will depend on the specific material. -Handle liners +$15; single liners or in combinations. In vulcanized paper I have thin and thick red, thin and thick white, thin and thick black, and thick yellow. In thick (0.03") G10 I have blaze orange and pink. -Basic black kydex sheath riveted to fit large Tek-Loks (tek-lok not included) +$30 -Kydex belt loop for sheath +$10 -Nylon belt loop for sheath +$15 -5/16" diameter firesteel with matching handle +$40 (firesteel loop is free if you buy a sheath and firesteel) -Basic leather sheath +$45. Color can be natural tan or black and a firesteel loop can be included if you buy a firesteel. I can do just about anything you can think of including other steels, different blade lengths, mosaic pins, or whatever. Just let me know and I'll give you a quote. I use regular 416 stainless pins but will do Corby pins for $10 more. I've never heard of regular pins failing other than in flexible knives. All knives will be repaired or replaced if they fail as long as the damage wasn't intentional for as long as I am making knives. Not covered is normal wear and natural material handles. Accessories aren't covered, but I'm a reasonable man so long as you ask nicely. Here's a work in progress. It's black linen micarta with thick red liners and a glass breaker butt instead of a rounded butt. A glass breaker butt can be added for no cost. The lanyard hole in this one is actually an oval. All others will have round holes, I was just playing around with this particular knife. "

I hope to be in touch with you about one of these soon

[Edited on July 13, 2012 at 11:30 PM. Reason : c]

7/13/2012 11:30:42 PM

I'd love to build you one

My next unspoken for batch of Rangers will hopefully be off to the heat treater in a week, which mean they'll be available in about a month.

I've got some smaller 7" overall length knives in the works. They're a more plain design called the ATK (Appalachian Trail Knife). They're sort of reminiscent of bush craft knives though they'll have saber grinds. I should have some finished pics next week.

7/14/2012 2:55:03 AM

Annnnnd...more pics

Here's a Ranger I finished up with black linen micarta handles, red liners, and that leather sheath.


Here is a closeup of the linen micarta pattern:


In the sheath:


Out of the sheath:


Liners:


In this pic there are two small Parkers in O-1 steel (left), some ATKs in CPM D2 steel ("Appalachian Trail Knife", the medium sized ones in the middle), and two Rangers in CPM 3V steel to the right. Those Rangers have saber grinds, which is how I'm going to be making them from now on instead of the full flat grinds. One of those Rangers is colter's.

7/17/2012 1:55:15 AM

getting bored with my current knife

what are some good, <$50 edc folders that can be left-hand carried, with a deep pocket clip?

[Edited on July 29, 2012 at 4:35 PM. Reason : also, i've been buying most of my stuff off amazon? any other sites with better prices?]

7/29/2012 4:35:06 PM

The spyderco tenacious would be my pick for a cheap knife, but if deep carry is real important then the benchmade pika has a real deep (but a little bit flimsy) clip.

7/31/2012 1:18:46 PM

^^^ looking awesome!

7/31/2012 1:42:55 PM

+1 on the tenacious, right now that is my edc while at work.

hole patterns for tip up/tip down carry on the left or right

7/31/2012 1:54:52 PM

I, too, have a tenacious that I got for about $35 on amazon and I love it.

+1

7/31/2012 1:55:32 PM

I'm not a big fan of the Tenacious. I like to close one-handed and the lack of choil can make that a little painful.

7/31/2012 3:55:03 PM

i just want something with a left-handed frame/liner lock

also, i have a tenacious and while it's quality made, i don't really care for the design or feel of it

i'm going to give the ontario rat a shot even though i don't care for the clip

7/31/2012 4:05:09 PM

^^ I always close one-handed and can't think of how a choil or lack thereof will make a difference in catching yourself. Thumb the liner lock, index finger on rear of the blade pushing closed. Do I just do it weird or something? If anything, my thumb knuckle has gotten caught by a few "springy" blades but that's always at the center of the blade where there wouldn't be a choil.

7/31/2012 7:28:52 PM

I do it the same way. the bushing is tight enough that the blade won't flop around once the liner lock is pressed, so i just lightly push the blade past the lock, then close it after my thumb is out of the way

7/31/2012 8:39:45 PM

This is why I don't like liner locks. Having to put your fingers in the plane of motion of the blade in order to close it is inherently unsafe.

7/31/2012 8:47:51 PM

^ thats why I EDC a fixed blade.

Sent you a PM about the ranger Fumbler!

10/4/2012 12:27:21 AM

What is your current fixed blade edc and how do you carry it?

I tried edc a fixed blade but sitting is annoying. I might try pocket carrying one of my Parkers once I start making them in S35VN.

10/5/2012 1:22:37 AM

anyone have experience with Kershaw customer service? My EDC knife is getting rust on the ball that retains the spring for the lock and I want to get the ball replaced or whatnot

10/5/2012 9:04:34 AM

^^^^^My edc is a mid lock. So I just press the lock with my thumb and flip the knife forward, the choil stops the blade at my index finger and then I close it the rest of the way with my index finger.

10/5/2012 1:59:37 PM

I'm thinking about getting this:

http://www.amazon.com/Buck-Hood-Hoodlum-Hunting-Knife/dp/B004VS05E8

Thoughts? Any other quality survival blades I should consider?

10/17/2012 10:49:57 PM

Becker BK9 would probably be another good option

10/17/2012 11:05:57 PM

do you really want something that long? i'd rather have something like a RAT RC-4, which is about the same thing as the Ranger fumbler makes.

10/18/2012 8:22:47 AM

^^^I've never seen a hoodlum in person but it looks more like a fighting knife to me. If you read the reviews a lot of people say it's got great balance and is light weight. IMO if you're gonna have only one knife that's probably a decent choice. If you're going to have a smaller knife too then you should get something better at chopping.

Good choices in that size would be the BK9, ESEE Junglas, Ontario RD9, or Scrap Yard 911. I'd get the Scrap Yard (in fact, I have the 711. The 911 wasnt available then) because the SR-101 (52100) holds a better edge than 1095 or 5160 and the Busse family heat treat is the best. I also love the Respirene C handle. It's by far the most comfortable handle you'll find. The drawback to the Busse family knives are price, they tend to be a little too thick in the edge, and the Respirene handles can't be used to hammer with.

If you're trying to keep costs low I'd probably go with the Becker and get some micarta to make handles. I'd be afraid of breaking the tip on the Hoodlum...though the Hoodlum does has a certain ninja coolishness to it.

10/19/2012 1:50:47 AM

Actually, yes I want something long (9"-10" blade) as well as something that is durable enough to handle chopping wood and other heavy duty outdoor work. I've already got two other knives for medium and light duty work. I plan on doing quite a bit of outdoor camping and I would like to have a knife that's more capable than the standard issue KA-Bar.

I'm familiar with the Hoodlum, but not so much it's competitors. I do like the BK9, but I LOVE the Scrap Yard Syko 911. $170+$15 shipping... That's a lot of money for a knife.... I was trying to stay around the $120 shipped range... But you buy quality, you only have to buy once...

http://shop.scrapyardknives.com/product.sc;jsessionid=2F94D265669921C1460AC5E667107E6B.qscstrfrnt06?productId=62&categoryId=4


I find myself enjoying my wife's Dozier more than my Recon 1... But only sometimes

[Edited on October 19, 2012 at 2:37 AM. Reason : ..]

10/19/2012 2:13:17 AM

Quote :

"durable enough to handle chopping wood and other heavy duty outdoor work."

get an ax

10/19/2012 6:54:27 AM

^^The Scrap Yard is worth the extra money if you've got it. Don't forget, you'll need to buy or make a sheath so the 911 will cost even more.

Something else to consider is a handmade/custom knife. There are plenty of makers but sometimes it can be hard to find them. Handmade doesn't necessarily mean expensive.
Try contacting this guy and getting a quote: http://www.bigchriscustomknives.com/
He sells stuff on bladeforums pretty regularly and I like his designs. If I was looking for a big camp knife I'd want one out of CPM 3V. It'll hold an edge probably 5-6 times longer than 5160 and will be tougher too.

^An axe is a handy tool but a good chopper can keep pace with an axe in all but the thickest wood. IMO the only real advantage an axe has is the ability to hammer. If I wanted to save weight I'd easily pick the chopper.

10/19/2012 11:59:49 AM

^this. I have a wonderful wetterlings ax, but it is bulky and a bit heavy. im not looking to,chop a tree, just break down some limbs for a campfire. I know there are small 1 handed axes, but a chopper/knife is more versitile imo.

10/19/2012 3:53:54 PM

Bump for pics. I've started grinding these knives with saber grinds vs full flat.

If anyone wants a Ranger I've got some that have been heat treated (made of CPM 3V steel). You can pick the handle material.
This one here has a green canvas micarta handle. The knife is $230, tek-lok compatible sheath without attachments is $20, belt loop attachment is $15, and firesteel is $35.

What's everyone think?
The pics aren't the best but you get the idea.

12/13/2012 1:45:32 AM

What holds the rivets in? Are they rivets? Do you grind them smooth after installation? How do you avoid grinding the wood?

[Edited on December 13, 2012 at 1:58 AM. Reason : Ah wait, I just saw the pic on the previous page with the grind marks. Very clean final result.]

12/13/2012 1:48:07 AM

^^ man those are awesome. If i didn't already have a Ka-Bar BK2 i'd be interested in one.

i'm looking for a new EDC knife. I really liked my last Kershaw so I'm thinking about picking up the Cryo Speed Safe Folding Knife for just under $30 on Amazon.

12/13/2012 9:37:41 AM

^^They're corby bolts. Some people call them rivets but they're not really rivets.


You glue the scales and rivets on then grind it all down as if it's uniform material. It's seamless.

12/13/2012 10:10:44 AM

I see. It seems the corby bolts are preferable to lovelace ones? I suppose there's no way to tighten them at a later point, but the glue should prevent them from coming loose.

12/13/2012 10:35:02 AM

Functionally there's no advantage to corby vs loveless bolts. Loveless bolts have the potential to be stronger due to a bigger cross section and slightly wider shoulders but corby bolts are plenty strong to start with. You can't tighten either type once they're installed and yes, the glue prevents both from loosening. A lot of people like corby bolts more because loveless bolts almost always show a seam at the threads.

12/13/2012 12:06:52 PM

Ahh, ok. Love the photos man, looks great.

12/15/2012 2:42:20 PM

Thanks. Want to buy one?

12/16/2012 12:44:39 PM

beautiful knives, man. Wish I could afford one

12/16/2012 2:21:47 PM

i have made it very clear to my wife that if i don't get one of your rangers for my birthday, i'll be getting one for myself

12/16/2012 5:47:26 PM

^^I wish I could afford one too.

^sweet!

[Edited on December 16, 2012 at 6:18 PM. Reason : ]

12/16/2012 6:17:53 PM

^On my website, for payment options...I list cash/credit/check/ or Fumbers knives.

12/16/2012 6:24:24 PM

Picked up a Buck Master. My 8 year old self has finally been satisfied.
I'm secretly disappointed that the "grappling spikes" were lost before I got it though.

[Edited on January 6, 2013 at 12:25 PM. Reason : l]

1/6/2013 12:22:48 PM

Seems like it'd be easy to make the spikes and rope loop if you actually wanted to use it for grappling. If you use I for grappling you need to post a vid.

1/6/2013 6:08:21 PM

I suck a lot at sharpening blades.

With that said, anyone have a recommendation or willing to sharpen my Recon 1 for cheap? A simple flat grind will do.

2/14/2013 3:13:43 AM

Just bought my first damascus knife... But it's for a friend

Kershaw Scallion. I'm sure they'll love it.

4/2/2013 4:20:14 AM

I still need to find someone to sharpen a recurve blade.

4/2/2013 9:07:44 AM

The Buck Hoodlums have had alot of breakages at the notch in the blade after seemingly mild use. It's 5160, but the notch and possibly the heat treat thats being used is causing more than a few failures- the blade snaps in half. I would avoid these and get an ESEE or scrapyard. Same price point, much better knives.

As far as sharpening goes anyone in Raleigh go by Carolina Gunrunners off durant and have Richard do it for ya. He uses an edge-pro that will put a wicked, clean edge on anything, and I don't think its very expensive. Then get a set of crock sticks (lansky. spyderco) to touch up with.

I've been in the woods alot lately but just got in a batch of 3V to try some stock removal blades out of.. I have a Fehrman Shadow Scout thats been my primary EDC/ carry for about a year, and the 3V its made of is exceptional. After tons of batoning, chopping, and even fine work its never seen a stone, just stropped it. Keeps an incredible edge. It may be Fehrman's heat treat, but this may be the "new" wonder steel.

4/4/2013 11:12:46 PM

^ Thanks for the tip on sharpening. I'll check them out.

4/5/2013 11:05:52 AM

I've heard fehrman's heat treat is great but I think 3V is just that good. I get mine treated to 60hrc and at that hardness it's got to be twice (not really, just feels like it) as wear resistant than even s35vn and way tougher. If you're used to 52100 then 3V is going to be boat loads of fun to grind
How are you going to ht it? It takes some pretty good temp control and cryo.

Shameless plug...
Ranger in CPM 3V and tan canvas micarta handle:


Parker in CPM S35VN with stonewashed finish:


[Edited on April 5, 2013 at 1:10 PM. Reason : ]

4/5/2013 12:52:54 PM

man, your stuff is looking really nice! I'm not sure on HT for the 3V. I have a nice oven, but more than likely I'll send it out. Who is doing your HT? are you doing it in house now?

4/6/2013 6:25:04 PM

Thanks

I'm not doing my own heat treat on high alloys yet. I get Peter's heat treating in PA to do mine and have had great results. They heat treat for a lot of knife makers and their service is on par with Paul Bos. With one exception everything I've sent them has come back straight within 3-4 thousandths (usually less), scale free, and with just a thin decarb layer. They check the hardness of every piece too, which is why you'll see the rockwell test dimple in some pics of my Parkers. With 3v you can grind pretty close to final dimension pre heat treat. I grind down the edges as far as 0.015" and haven't had any edge warp. The only problem I've had was a batch of Parkers in S35VN that came back with a gentle full length sweep in most of them that was as bad as 0.01" off in the middle. I wonder if they didn't straighten those due to the knives being so short (5.15").

3V is pretty demanding in regards to temp control. It austentizes around 2000 degrees, has a pretty long soak time, tempers around 1000 degrees (a 50 degree difference results in a 4 point HRC difference), and really needs a cryo treatment or you retain too much austentite. I'll leave it to them to do all that because I don't have the space, power, or money for the equipment.

Peters charges something like $20-25 per blade but will treat up to 20 blades for $100. There's definitely an advantage to buying in bulk.

4/7/2013 2:25:48 AM

Fumbler, are any of your knives for sale? This is a serious inquiry.

4/13/2013 8:00:16 PM