lol... i'd say cossie/manley/JE pistons in the sti and give it a little more warm up time.... and WIN! lol

1/27/2011 8:21:32 AM

I've sat in an Evo X MR. I liked the interior actually, mostly because my expectations were so low. The engines are in many ways much more advanced than even the Evo IX 4G63. But I've never driven one (either the paddle-shifting MR or the 5 speed GSR) so it's hard to say.

1/27/2011 10:53:36 AM

^^

Do you realize how absurd putting aftermarket pistons in a car running a factory ECU is?

They either make crap or they dont (maybe they just make crap STIs , I dont know). If i were in his shoes i wouldn't hesitate to abandon ship. Blown ringland? Are you serious?

1/27/2011 8:22:35 PM

Agreed i still like 'em though cause if you get a good one its really good but if you get a bad one... Boom.

1/27/2011 9:32:42 PM

2/3/2011 1:36:33 PM

Stock replacement porn.

Some people like women engines the way they left the factory.

2/3/2011 3:17:52 PM

This is all about keeping the warranty. Besides, like Quinn said...the idea of needing to put AM pistons in a car is absurd.

It does have updated things like the nitrided crankshaft.

2/3/2011 3:36:48 PM

i think you meant "warranty"

2/3/2011 4:02:11 PM

Its cool man i'm not knocking anything...

I'm sort of OCD when it comes to engines.

I already have everything planned for if/when my motor blows... (experimental aircraft guys have been building EJs longer then performance enthusiasts)

If/when my clutch goes... (sti flywheel & clutch)

If/when my turbo goes.. (hopefully after i get my EL header)

Of course i've wanted my 05 legacy since... well... 05.
I think i'm member number 46 or something @ the legacy forums

I'm just a retard don't mind me

I'd like to get a front LSD but from what i read i'll be half way to the cost of a 6 speed just in doing that.

2/3/2011 4:06:12 PM

I caught the irony in your first line sumfool. Gg

2/4/2011 7:50:29 AM

Haha. I wonder if he caught the irony himself?

2/4/2011 7:57:41 AM

Hard to tell with him!!!

2/4/2011 2:10:08 PM

lol

2/4/2011 10:54:45 PM

Best intake setup for power ?

The legacy gt forums love the KS-tech.

Anyone know if they cause any tuning problems?

2/8/2011 2:34:22 PM

get yourself a blow-through maf kit and tune it yourself

2/8/2011 3:15:36 PM

I wouldn't put in any aftermarket intake without at least taking some data logs to make sure it didn't throw something off.

2/8/2011 4:13:47 PM

Ohh it would get re tuned I'd get the big maf setup so it would have to be.

2/9/2011 9:21:02 AM

Subaru FB20 motor to have bent rods.



I hope this isn't to make warranty repairs cheaper (engine case no longer needs to be split to change out rods and pistons)

2/11/2011 4:25:30 PM

Quote :

"(engine case no longer needs to be split to change out rods and pistons)"

What's wrong with improving the serviceability of the engine?

2/11/2011 5:55:59 PM

Lol nothing I was just trying to crack a joke that they plan on rebuilding a bunch more bottom ends with the new motor.

:fail:

I think it's a good idea makes it easier to build the motor which a lot of people do anyway.

2/11/2011 6:00:26 PM

seems like it would increase engine displacement by virtue of a longer stroke. (I could be looking at that wrong).

subaru has been making dumb H4 engines for a long time. at least this is something unique!!

[Edited on February 11, 2011 at 7:18 PM. Reason : .]

2/11/2011 7:16:42 PM

I believe they increased the stroke and reduced the bore on these new engines compared to their predecessors.

2/11/2011 8:56:52 PM

It does look funky, but who cares, I'm sure they had their reasons... Not splitting to change rods
seems like a good idea. That said, it looks QUITE funky. I'm fine with my STRAIGHT rods, just
like my STRAIGHT 6, none of this bi-cylinder per bank w/bent rods crap! I mean
for ///'s sake!

RE: Stroke,
Rod length will not have any influence on displacement, only compression. Stroke can only be
changed by the "throw" of the crank.

[Edited on February 11, 2011 at 9:48 PM. Reason : ///]

2/11/2011 9:47:48 PM

good point ahmet!!! /// droppin knowledge

2/11/2011 10:26:40 PM

Rod length has nothing to do with compressiOn either. You can't just put longer rods on a motor to bump compression up it will smash into the cylinder. It should help the rod angle and reduce the stress on the bottom end by translating the linear force of the piston into torque on the crank more efficiently. However I'm notbaure if the rods will actually be any longer.

2/12/2011 8:32:27 AM

I'm all for the bent rods. Now if they could just switch to hydraulic or shimmed lifters.

2/12/2011 8:44:38 AM

Next up from Sherlock: Bore doesn't have anything to do w/displacement, you can't just increase it, the pistons will contact each other.

Grasshopper, just cause you can't increase the compression on your mom's minivan to 15:1 w/rods doesnt mean they dont change compression.
Xoxo

2/12/2011 10:13:55 AM

they have been running rods like that for years in the bigger flat 6s

as for lifters, they had hydraulic in the 90s, dropped them. Had shims under buckets in the early 2000s but dropped them in favor of bucket as shim to shave off valvetrain weight.

2/12/2011 10:14:52 AM

Hahahah

Yeah rods can certainly increase CR. My pistons on my turbo sit 1/8" or more in the hole at TDC. i milled the block and head as much as i could. i guess putting suzuki pistons in the honda block was a bad idea in hindsight.

2/12/2011 1:06:58 PM

^ What do those pistons come out of? Are they actual OEM pistons or are they aftermarket pistons intended for a Suzuki application?

2/12/2011 1:17:53 PM

^It used to be pretty popular to use Suzuki Vitara pistons in turbo D16s. I'm assuming that's what he's talking about. Dropped compression pretty good for like 1/3 price of aftermarket or something.

2/12/2011 6:49:45 PM

they are 75.5 bore for a vitara. wrist pin offset is a little off (ehe) which is why mine kind of clunks around and sounds like a diesel. i think they were 75$? Had em at 17psi for 1.5 years now. i'm about to swap the motor out this summer if i win an auction in two weeks. if you know anyone interested ray ill sell it $mad cheap. compression tested 2 weeks ago even across the board. i dont even want to post the number....i think this thing is 7.8:1.

2/12/2011 9:02:44 PM

you'd have to see if you can convince zxappeal to swap a D series into his 'Teg.

2/12/2011 9:15:40 PM

listen I'm just saying it's usually a bad idea to just lengthen a rod without changing pistons accordingly. If you are talking .001ths then go for it. I personally still think it's a dumb idea to go any more then you'd deck the block. And why would you want to replace just the rods to increase compression. "Yay I picked up a couple hp but severely limited my valve clearance if I ever want to change cams."

I guess what I'm trying to say is rod length changes are usually done for the angles the work at not for compression. Most oe's use piston shape and head volume to controll CR.

And you can take that grasshopper shit and shove it up your ///

2/13/2011 12:16:51 AM

Mr sumfoo1, since you dragged the good name of /// into this, let me remind you that this is what you said

Quote :

"Rod length has nothing to do with compressiOn either"

which is patently false.

Quote :

"Most oe's use piston shape and head volume to controll CR."

This statement won't be accurate until they make a piston engine w/a crank or rods. And when I
say that, I don't mean just a 7 MAIN BEARING BMW ///M POWER MOTORSPORTS engine but
any engine.

Quinn, that thing must be a dog between opening the throttle and getting boost roughly 3 days later. 7.8:1?!

2/13/2011 1:27:19 AM

nah ahmet its not bad. car is like 1900lbs

2/13/2011 10:12:53 AM

You are right man,

So I'm going to raise the compression in my motor with longer rods... Can you show me where there is a "rods r' us" that carries rod lengths in .001" increments without special order ? i want to see how high i can get it before i bash my valves then i'll back it off one.

I guess the thing that bothered me was the thought that a factory would alter rod length without altering the piston & deck height (of the block) accordingly and thus the rod be the driving force in the compression change.

Yes the rod length does have an affect on the compression but using it as the driving factor to control compression is a horrid idea unless the motor was a poor design to begin with. I.E. the piston stopped too short in the bore to begin with. And if they were to shorten the rod to reduce compression that would also be a brilliant way to accidentally clearance your block for a stroker motor in the future... Not to mention the amazing quench height you'd now have.... awesome....

But you're original comment was completely correct rod length only affects compression nothing else...

nothing...

Anyway I'm sorry i started this argument it was dumb i just don't want someone to think that using rods to control compression ratio is a good idea. The edge of the piston should stop where the factory wanted it to unless they were morons and released an incredibly poor design. But maybe its just me that thinks this way because some people seem to think that huge head-gaskets are also a good way to reduce compression.

/rant.

2/13/2011 7:12:05 PM

Quote :

"unless the motor was a poor design to begin with. I.E. subaru"

2/14/2011 12:04:43 AM

So...thoughts on engine break in?

Subaru's philosophy is of course to stay off boost and keep it below 3k rpm for a large number of miles. No synthetics to start and the first oil change at 500 miles. I agree on the oil philosophy, but I would like to hear others thoughts on how to run the engine. I think we all agree that a proper warm/cool down is a MUST so skip all that jazz.

2/17/2011 8:53:30 AM

yah. no turboB0000000000000000000000st and keep the rpms low. that will kind of suck. but take a real long drive.

from what ive heard/seen with subaru, thats pretty common. i think built motors call for 1000 mile below 3k

MarkVIII will chime in though with proper steps.

[Edited on February 17, 2011 at 9:14 AM. Reason : ]

2/17/2011 9:13:49 AM

I've got no problems driving around non stop so the mileage isn't really an issue.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Here is an interesting read that calls for a very aggressive break in to properly seat piston rings. It goes against everything Subaru says.

2/17/2011 9:31:17 AM

This is a debate that will never end.

We're all used to the "easy" break in. It's proven to work with me so that's what I've done.

I've seen it done on a friends built Sti engine. So I could Only say that it's what I would do.

If you dis this aggressive break in. And it worked. Then I'd have new thoughts about it. I've hear is it, but don't know anyone who's actually done it.

2/17/2011 9:57:35 AM

I used the harsh break in on my subie, but it was just a refreshed engine with all new gaskets and seals

haha

2/21/2011 11:15:41 AM

I've used a "hard" break ins (w/great results, less than factory spec leak down 50k+ miles later), in other words, I drove like I drive any other time.
Moderate driving until up to temp, then full throttle/high-varying RPM driving then on out. Oil change as usual, not early.

When it comes down to it, I think as long as you vary RPM and load, you should be fine.

2/21/2011 11:44:14 AM

^

agreed.

2/21/2011 9:56:05 PM

This is awesome unfortunately its on JDM spec C Cams...

p.s. did you know those bastards use AVCS to knock some power out of the legacy intentionally..

.... because having two cars (one larger and understated) with the same power would be crazy.

[Edited on March 1, 2011 at 12:55 PM. Reason : .]

3/1/2011 12:53:29 PM

can't see the pic

3/1/2011 2:37:59 PM

shit sorry i can't either...

Its essentially someone datalogged AVCS with a flat advance across all rpms and then calculated the amount of air in the cylinder by Using AFR & IDC to determine the amount of air in the engine. It basically showed that more advance spools faster but dies up-top (and is probably dangerous too) and 5-10* can still have benefits in the 6000rpm range by his calcs. However they don't account for the fact that you could be blowing that air right out the exhaust.

Also someone mentioned tuning the cams individually on an sti adds a couple hp??

I guess this makes sense on the factory header but would you really want part of your engine making more power than the other side?
AVCS

ENGINE LOAD (gs)

WHP (calculated using road dyno software)


AVCS=0 Red
AVCS=10 Blue
AVCS=20 Green
AVCS=30 Orange
AVCS=40 gray
AVCS=45 brown

(jdm we only get 30 max)


[Edited on March 1, 2011 at 2:59 PM. Reason : .]

3/1/2011 2:46:41 PM

from memory there are no tables to adjust the AVCS by cylinder bank. However the 2008+ STi models give you individual control over the intake and exhaust cams. Intake cams are advanced and exhaust cams are retarded.

3/1/2011 5:34:31 PM

Yay! Got me a subaru wrx project car up and running finally. 2004 hybrid wrx - 2.0 mated to a 2.5.

3/1/2011 11:16:31 PM