Anyone have any suggestions for brands and such for rock climbing shoes and harnesses??

1/23/2006 2:56:27 PM

for a harness, i have a petzl calidris. used to have a black diamond iris. both are/were fine. just go try them on. suggest good padding for thighs - if you are new, expect lots of falls and hanging. padding helps.

shoes, i've always had scarpas. boreals and five tens are fine, just don't fit me like i'd want. go try them on.... they'll be tight but they shouldn't ever hurt.

rei has a good selection of both and usually pretty knowledgeable staff who can help you out. plus they run good sales.

1/23/2006 3:26:56 PM

I've just used a cheap REI harness since I typically do short routes and/or gym climbing. The biggest thing is going to be the fit. Make sure it's comfortable if you're going to be in it for a while. The second thing would be make sure it's adjustable in both legs and waist, that way you can wear it over heavier clothing if you're climbing in the winter or if you ever go ice climbing. Aslo if you're going to be doing any kind of lead climbing you'll want gear slings on your harness (personally they're easier to use than shoulder slings).

As far as shoes... I've got a pair of Boreal Aces for long trad climbs and a pair of 5.10 Moccasym slippers for gym/short route/bouldering. They're both really great shoes. The rubber on the Aces is a bit tough but they edge really well.


Shoes are mainly a comfort thing, but also it depends on the types of cilmbs you're going to be doing. Some shoes work better for overhangs while others are really good at working small cracks. Shoes should be tight as Queti said but the tighter the better. I know if I wear my Moccasyms for over 20 minutes my feet start to hurt. The less room your has to move around in the shoes the more responsive they will be and the more you can "feel" the rock.


Sizes: Aces - 12, Moccasyms - 10.5, regular boot - 13

1/23/2006 3:55:42 PM

Ya, about any harness should be good as long as it fits. I've actually gone climbing with a self made harness made from twenty feet of webbing plus a 'biner. It works but you wouldn't want to take a leader fall in it.

1/23/2006 6:05:36 PM

Misty Mountain, made in Boone, NC!!!!!!!

1/23/2006 6:28:23 PM

^ bravo good sir.

1/24/2006 12:45:54 PM

^ I'm a girl!

1/24/2006 3:13:31 PM

bump

3/28/2010 3:11:14 PM

for what?

3/28/2010 3:13:52 PM

for me! i've been talking to a few friends about getting my first harness and they suggested a misty. i've heard they're quality and i know they're made in north carolina. i also like that the company is geared toward sustainability.
i'm thinking about this one: http://www.mistymountain.com/finesse.htm
any input?

3/28/2010 3:20:05 PM

Quote :

" self made harness made from twenty feet of webbing "

I too, have done this. I think it's called a "swiss seat" or something...it works but it isnt very comfortable for long periods of climbing.

^looks like a decent harness to me. I've used several that are pretty much the same as that and they all work well....just try em on and see if it fits well

3/28/2010 3:31:34 PM

Get a Treemotion



:drool:

3/29/2010 12:53:04 AM

i don't even know what i'm looking at. seems a bit much for me!

3/29/2010 9:05:29 AM

Get the misty mountain and have your wildest dreams come true . . .. . .

3/29/2010 9:27:51 AM

It's a tree climbing harness...it'd be overkill and cumbersome for rock climbing.

3/29/2010 11:32:26 AM

I'm about 99% certain I'm buying the misty. I need shoes too but I've heard REI has a shitty selection

3/29/2010 12:40:08 PM

REI isn't too bad if you use their online outlet. I got a bangin deal on the five ten's I have, just look online and do ship to store if you have to.

3/29/2010 5:27:26 PM

i've worn a similar harness to the one i'm buying so i don't mind buying it online... but the shoes i feel like i need to try on first before i buy since i've noticed different brands size differently.

3/29/2010 5:29:43 PM

I'm a big fan of Acopa. They might be hard to find out there but the company is awesome and will work with you to get a shoe that fits. However, since John Bachar died last July I'm not sure what's going on with Acopa.

3/29/2010 8:36:25 PM

Yeah I am looking online and can't see anywhere around here to get them. I've heard good things about red chilis but same problem with those. I'm seeing a lot of la sportiva on rei and I know some girls who climb with those and like them

3/30/2010 9:36:13 AM

The reality on shoes is that if you are just starting out its not going to make a huge difference which shoes you get as long as they are pretty comfortable on your feet but not too big.


personally I recommend finding the cheapest shoe on the internet and ordering one size bigger than your street shoes.



just my $0.02

3/30/2010 10:02:34 AM

One size bigger? Everyone else is saying one size smaller

3/30/2010 10:09:00 AM

it probably worth it to try some on at REI to get a better idea if you need to go bigger or smaller. Different feet are different.

but

my experience is to buy them a bit bigger. I ordered my current pair of shoes off the internet for cheap (sierra trading post; 5.10 anasazis). I had to send them back for a half size bigger and they were still too small (until recently when they have finally relaxed and stretched a little).

A lot of climbers like their shoes REALLY small. It lets you position your feet a little easier, gives you a good feel of the rock, etc. But it can also make your feet hurt if you're going to be climbing for a while. I used to only be able to have my shoes on for about an hour before I would have to take them off and unfold my toes, and a lot of times I wouldnt want to put them back on.

Thats why I recommend them a little bigger. Comfort trumps whatever you gain with a smaller shoe, especially if you are buying your first pair.

3/30/2010 10:29:30 AM

On the other hand both 5.10s and Sportiva fit my feet larger. My street show is 9.5, I wear 10 in Acopa, 8.5 in Sportive/5.10, and 9 in Boreal. I mostly trad climb these days so I wear a shoe that I can sit in all day rather than a super tight slipper most sport climbers/boulders wear.

If you're mostly gym climbing get something a bit better than the cheapest shoe around. In my experience the cheapo shoes are soft, thin, and can't edge worth shit. However, they are good for slab climbing.



[Edited on March 30, 2010 at 11:24 AM. Reason : x]

3/30/2010 11:22:37 AM

Your first pair of shoes should be snug, but not to the point where your toes curl. They'll loosen up a bit after you climb in them. If they get too loose, you can always wear a pair of thin socks.

3/30/2010 11:33:42 AM

harness was delivered this afternoon! i'm excited to try it out this weekend. tried some shoes on at rei today and i think i'll need an 8.5 in evolve or la sportiva. i'm trying to find some good deals on the net in hoping to avoid paying full price. now i just need to find the belay device i like and i'm all set!

4/2/2010 3:42:38 PM

I need some new shoes. I can barely squeeze mine on anymore, and I'd probably hurt myself if I tried to climb in them.

4/2/2010 3:46:36 PM

I found some of last season's shoes online for decent prices. My size will probably be gone by the time I get around to buying though.

I'm breaking in the misty at vertical edge tonight. I'm a little excited

4/6/2010 11:07:25 AM

climbing at ve in about an hour with some people. feel free to join! i'll be the one dropping F-bombs and beating up little kids

4/11/2010 2:20:45 PM

got last season's evolve elektra for about $65. went with the 8.5 after walking around rei a few times in the 8 and 8.5. hopefully it works out


pretty sure i'm just talking to myself in here at this point. oh well. i'm excited!

[Edited on April 15, 2010 at 2:08 PM. Reason : ]

4/15/2010 2:02:12 PM

Imma post some climbin videos in here cause work suxs


Stolby, Siberia climbing culture
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwCyM84HCcA

Johnny Copp/Micah Dash Alpine Video (both died recently)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgKBQ1P3t54&feature=channel

Ammon McNeely, "the Yosemite Pirate" Make sure you watch it till the end, he does an insane swing while drinking a beer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgE8Pcshn9o









also thinking of picking up a Boulder pad soon with my tax return. Basically the only one in the running right now is Mad Rock's pad
http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Mad-Rock-Mad-Pad-Crash-Pad/MRC0004M.html


Everything I've read pretty much puts it as the most bang for your buck. For the money its one of the biggest and most foam. Anyone got any opinions?





[Edited on May 6, 2010 at 10:24 AM. Reason : crash pad]

5/6/2010 10:19:12 AM

^ That guy is nuts. Him falling near the beginning, then the beer swing gave me butterflies and I'm just watching.

5/6/2010 10:31:36 AM

that ammon video got me pumped! i'm ready to get back to climbing! i loved when he said he'd rather have 40 years of excitement than 80 years of boredom

it makes my fucking baaaaaalls droooopppp


dunno much about crash pads, but i am about to buy this


wooooooooooooo

[Edited on May 6, 2010 at 10:50 AM. Reason : ]

5/6/2010 10:34:33 AM

yea that guy is def wired differently. I'd like to think if I spent 100+ days out of a year a couple hundred feet up on a rock face I would start to be as crazy, but I doubt it.


I think you can tell hes a little nervous right before he does that big swing, he just does it anyway haha.


^Ooooohhhhhh. SHINY!!!!! I say go for it!!

[Edited on May 6, 2010 at 10:51 AM. Reason : ^]

[Edited on May 6, 2010 at 10:52 AM. Reason : I'd try to find it on sale on the internetz]

5/6/2010 10:50:38 AM

i tried one the other day and it's definitely helpful when i'm belaying bigger dudes and they want to hang out up top for a minute. and i can flip it around for smaller chicks, kids, etc

5/6/2010 11:00:46 AM

I've heard lots of people recommend them. One of my favorite T-shirts got sucked into an ATC once. put a massive hole in it

5/6/2010 11:17:38 AM

The graduation money is rolling in...time for some new shoes and draws!

5/6/2010 2:44:32 PM

Youtube took down a lot of cool climbing videos lately due to copyright : /
I like watching Alex Honnold send a 13+ offwidth in the creek:
http://vimeo.com/6052030

Can't even imagine doing that. Three weeks ago I failed miserably at two offwidths/squeeze chimneys in the Valley: Ahab 5.10b and Generator Crack 5.10c. The latter took off significants amount of skin on my ankles & elbows.

5/6/2010 9:14:20 PM

^
That rock is incredible...I really want to go climb in Utah now.

That climb looks super fun, although off-widths scare me a little. I don't like the idea of slipping and snapping my leg or arm in half.

5/7/2010 6:55:20 AM

Iker Pou on Demencia Senil - 9a+ http://vimeo.com/9519387

One of my favorite videos. The beginning is ridiculous. Also I love no-hand rests, haha.

[Edited on May 7, 2010 at 7:00 AM. Reason : .]

5/7/2010 6:58:20 AM

Yea, there were awesome upside down rests in both of those videos; I too want to go to Utah. I've been practicing on a "crack" in the bricks at Weaver labs here at state that is just barely off-width (If you have really big hands you might be able to jam it). I've only tried it a few times, but cant send.


here is another Alex Honnold vid. I like this one because I think it shows the mental aspect of a trad climb with bad protection, and you can hear him breathing during part of the climb (not sure if they put a mic on him or what)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Dxd0z-gWWc



Wintermute, I'd like to hear more about your climbing. I looked through some of your pics on your website and looks like you have been to some pretty awesome destinations.

Whats your climbing experience like adultswim? Im only toprope/gym rat experience but am looking to up my game soon (I should be getting out of Grad School this summer, giving me more time). I'm always looking for new people to climb with!

5/7/2010 8:22:16 AM

Right now I'm just climbing at TRC and doing bouldering trips on the weekends. I'm leading indoors, but I'd really like to make the move to outdoor sport climbing.

I'm leading 5.11, TR-ing 5.12, and bouldering V6/7.

5/7/2010 10:53:06 AM

nice, you are def climbing harder than me then.

Im still trying to break into consistent 5.10 range

[Edited on May 7, 2010 at 12:26 PM. Reason : maybe like V4 boulder?]

5/7/2010 12:25:40 PM

Quote :

"here is another Alex Honnold vid. I like this one because I think it shows the mental aspect of a trad climb with bad protection, and you can hear him breathing during part of the climb (not sure if they put a mic on him or what)"

Geez, I hadn't seen that one yet. I wonder if any of that knob slinging would have held a good fall. This is one of those climbs where the rope is more psychological pro than anything.

Honnold's free solo of Half Dome was pretty intense. They video taped him at Thank God Ledge freaking out a bit. Certainly I would be before I committed to sandbagged 5.12a slab before topping out.

Quote :

"Wintermute, I'd like to hear more about your climbing. I looked through some of your pics on your website and looks like you have been to some pretty awesome destinations."

Well, I live 2.5 hours from Yosemite so my local crag happens to be one of the best in the world! I've done quite a bit of alpine and rock climbing in the last five years from big mountains to sport to ice climbing. I mostly trad climb these days and hopefully will do my first big wall this spring (maybe solo if I can't find a partner). I'm best at crack and slab climbing but lately I've been trying to improve my bouldering (I can do a 11d crack but can't touch a V4).

I'm always looking for partners so if you want to come to the California I could take you up some great routes.

5/7/2010 7:49:02 PM

Fyi - Yodajammies, myself, and some non-tww people are climbing at VE tuesday night around 7 or 730. Anyone else is welcome to join us.

5/8/2010 11:55:44 AM

Was anyone else at the New River Rendezvous this weekend?

5/16/2010 5:49:34 PM

I have gently used shoes (mens) and some chalk bags for sale. Let me know if you're interested and I'll get you specs. I also have a harness, but it's for a child or small adult.

5/16/2010 8:23:29 PM

Quote :

"Ammon McNeely, "the Yosemite Pirate" Make sure you watch it till the end, he does an insane swing while drinking a beer http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgE8Pcshn9o "

God-almighty! That dude is wild!

5/16/2010 8:44:30 PM

hopefully i'll hear back from misty mountain tomorrow regarding the tear that has appeared on my harness. i'm really disappointed as i haven't even been using it for 2 months yet

5/16/2010 8:52:19 PM

I hate to just keep posting videos, but it seems like they sometimes start discussion

Here is a pretty good one about the Southeast and access issues.

http://vimeo.com/2469886


Also Twoozles, me, and some friends are blowin up Vertical Edge Tomorrow night, come on out!

6/9/2010 10:49:54 AM