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 Message Boards » » Signs of alternator about to die? Page [1]  
esgargs
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Lately, when I start my car, the battery doesn't start charging immediately. I get the battery sign lit, and the voltage remains low. After driving around for a few minutes, the battery indicator starts flashing and then goes away, at which point the voltage gets high.

I have also noticed that if I idle at high RPMs, it helps overcome this issue. I don't have to do anything once the battery starts charging, and it maintains the voltage even at idle.

Could it be some moisture or something in the alternator?

8/29/2007 9:55:49 AM

69
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its because you drive a gay ass v6 mustang

8/29/2007 9:57:19 AM

tchenku
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test it out at autozone/advance yo

8/29/2007 10:08:58 AM

esgargs
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By the time I get to Advance, it is working again, and the dude tells me that everything is fine.

8/29/2007 10:13:41 AM

69
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Quote :
"its because you drive a gay ass v6 mustang"



with a weak ass battery, and soon to be dead alternator because of it

8/29/2007 10:15:23 AM

esgargs
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The battery is just about a year old, and is the factory recommended type.

8/29/2007 10:15:58 AM

69
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that doesnt mean shit

8/29/2007 10:25:44 AM

esgargs
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Well, tell me what to do, then.

I got the battery and the alternator tested. Everything is perfect by the time I get to the shop/store.

8/29/2007 10:29:17 AM

69
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get a less gay car

8/29/2007 10:51:29 AM

ScHpEnXeL
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i'd reccomend the drive it till it breaks method of testing

8/29/2007 10:55:48 AM

esgargs
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69, you seem to have a lot of closet angst.

8/29/2007 10:57:54 AM

zxappeal
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You seem to have a lot of closet assfaggotry.

8/29/2007 11:29:06 AM

slowblack96
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get an ohm meter. and when you first start the car up you can test the stuff your self.

8/29/2007 12:33:20 PM

ScHpEnXeL
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ohm meter ehh..how bout a multi-meter dip shit, reading resistance alone isn't going to do a whole hell of a lot

8/29/2007 12:36:41 PM

Hurley
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ehe

8/29/2007 12:38:06 PM

jethromoore
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Quote :
"After driving around for a few minutes, the battery indicator starts flashing and then goes away, at which point the voltage gets high.

I have also noticed that if I idle at high RPMs, it helps overcome this issue."


My car did the exact same thing and I think it ended up being the voltage regulator on the alternator, but my alternator was still under warranty so I just got the whole thing replaced and solved the problem.

The guys at advance said my alternator was fine and put a new battery in it which solved the problem for a day, but when they test your alternator they rev your engine up, so if your battery light cuts off when you rev it up, then the test will show the alternator is fine.

8/29/2007 2:05:19 PM

69
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first of all, you cant test an alternator in the car, basically what the idiots at advance are doing is the equivilant of checking it with a $5 voltmeter, jusat to sell you a part you dont need

8/29/2007 2:19:22 PM

slowblack96
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Quote :
"multi-meter "

thats what i meant but i couldnt think of the word.
thanks for the correction

8/29/2007 3:27:24 PM

69
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no , you said ohmmeter, cause your a fuckstick and you think thats what an multimeter is called, and unless you have a multimeter that can load test an alternator, then you are still in fact, wrong

8/29/2007 3:33:13 PM

esgargs
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hmmm

Why would you do a load test when it's clear that load isn't the issue? It works after a "warm-up" period, when the battery has been relatively drained more, and thus has a higher "load" than immediately after start.

8/29/2007 3:39:15 PM

69
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^ i dunno you tell me since you came on here asking all the questions

[Edited on August 29, 2007 at 3:43 PM. Reason : and you just answered your own damn question]

[Edited on August 29, 2007 at 3:44 PM. Reason : battery is lowest after a start and loads the alternator more]

8/29/2007 3:42:58 PM

esgargs
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Quote :
"battery is lowest after a start and loads the alternator more"


That's not the case here, though. If the alternator is getting into action only after about 15 minutes of driving, it means that the battery is lower than immediately after start. Imagine everything from ignition to the radio being handled by the battery.

8/29/2007 3:48:57 PM

69
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god you are a flaming idiot, you have no idea what the hell you are talking about, ask for help and then argue about it by stating shit that proves you have no idea what the fuck you are talking about

8/29/2007 4:00:44 PM

esgargs
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Dude, then explain to me.

I am just questioning why you think it's a load issue when the alternator is clearly able to handle the load.

8/29/2007 4:01:38 PM

slingblade
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I'd love to see someone put an ohmmeter on an alternator

8/29/2007 4:08:14 PM

ScHpEnXeL
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if it were handling the load the voltage would be where its suppose to be from the get go. My bet is the regulator. While the alternator is capable of producing enough current, the regulator isn't telling it to for a few minutes at least

8/29/2007 4:28:38 PM

esgargs
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Yeah sounds like the regulator to me, now. I don't think it is related to load at all though, because everything works even at idle after a few minutes when the load is infact higher. I was thinking some external factor like moisture, etc. was forcing it to not produce an output until it got a little warmer, but doesn't sound like that train of thought has any technical basis.

8/29/2007 4:31:19 PM

69
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ok you dumbass, the battery discharges when you start the car, you have the same amount of shit running all the time, so when you start the car the god damn alternator has to charge the battery + all the shit you have running in that piece of shit you drive, once the battery reaches full charge, it only hasd to run at enough of a load to prevent discharge, the lowest load on the damn thing, if you have a weak battery it could discharge more than it should, drawing a lot of current to recharge or a shitty alternator that isnt putting out enough for all that shit

8/29/2007 4:56:24 PM

esgargs
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Yeah, but we have ascertained that there's nothing wrong with the battery.

And since, the alternator comes back online, it obviously CAN handle the load, high or not.

[Edited on August 29, 2007 at 5:09 PM. Reason : .]

8/29/2007 5:07:01 PM

beatsunc
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if it has less than 13 volts while the car is running then it most likely needs an alternator.

8/29/2007 5:19:41 PM

esgargs
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It gets to about 15 volts when it comes online.

[Edited on August 29, 2007 at 5:22 PM. Reason : .]

8/29/2007 5:22:07 PM

Noen
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so then nothing is wrong, why the fuck are you even asking?

Jesus christ you are a total fucking toolbag. Have you ever even touched the innards of a car? I mean, fuck, when I don't know something I just ask and graciously accept other people's answers. What the fuck is wrong with you?

8/29/2007 11:39:36 PM

esgargs
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Did you read the thread or my problem at all?

it has nothing to do with load. The alternator handles the load just fine. Heck, I drove back with all lights on and about a 15 volt current just now.

Design majors shouldn't argue about tech stuff.

Quote :
"I just ask and graciously accept other people's answers"


The only credible and non nonsense answer I have seen so far is a possible voltage regulator issue. For some reason the regulator needs some cranking up/high current before it works. All the other replies have been by some person who hates breathing.

[Edited on August 29, 2007 at 11:54 PM. Reason : /]

8/29/2007 11:52:32 PM

BigBlueRam
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if you're going by the guage on the dash, that's hardly an accurate representation of anything that's going on.

[Edited on August 29, 2007 at 11:56 PM. Reason : .]

8/29/2007 11:54:45 PM

esgargs
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Well, the problem has persisted for about a month now, and the battery is still not dead, so it is getting charged, albeit not immediately after start.

I do kinda agree that it might be the voltage regulator about to crap.

8/29/2007 11:56:43 PM

slowblack96
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Quote :
"if you're going by the guage on the dash, that's hardly an accurate representation of anything that's going on."

why do they put a gauge there then.

8/30/2007 2:59:44 AM

Specter
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holy shit you are one fucking idiot.

hardly any factory voltmeters actually give an accurate reading. same goes for boost gauges, oil pressure, and hell even the engine termperature. I've seen them report as much as 30% error, which is huge.

did you know that your speedometer isn't even accurate, to some extent? you should never rely on those gauges when doing preventive maintenance or diagnosing a problem.

[Edited on August 30, 2007 at 7:26 AM. Reason : ]

8/30/2007 7:22:37 AM

69
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^^ you can't tell this guy anything, he's a fuckin expert

8/30/2007 7:47:50 AM

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