the mechanics shop where we keep it wants $250, anyone have a suggestion or can do it?

11/24/2008 6:01:37 PM

All you need is google

11/24/2008 6:07:13 PM

So where is the damn thing? What kind of boat, what kind of engine?

I do boat work as well as car work.

11/24/2008 6:16:30 PM

http://letmegooglethatforyou.com/?q=Somewhere+in+America+that+winterizes+boats

11/24/2008 6:24:48 PM

It's probably easier just to do it yourself. I can winterize mine a lot quicker than I can drag it to someone and have them do it. What kind of boat is it and what engine does it have?

I think the guy that runs Boat Pro is a state grad. This was all I could find for them: http://www.boatpromarine.com/

If you haven't done it already I hope you have it inside or have some lights (or block warmers) in the engine compartment. If not you're probably in for some expensive repairs.

[Edited on November 24, 2008 at 6:32 PM. Reason : l]

11/24/2008 6:30:19 PM

fuel stabilizer and a decent cover

11/24/2008 6:46:06 PM

^ Maybe on an outboard. Any time it gets into the mid 20's or any time it goes below freezing for a full day it can crack your block, push the valves out of your heads, crack the exhaust manifolds, etc. It gets plenty cold in NC to tear a boat engine to pieces.

Just putting new freeze plugs in most inboards requires you to lift the engine out so even minimal damage can be costly.

I really all depends on what kind of boat it is though.

[Edited on November 24, 2008 at 7:06 PM. Reason : l]

11/24/2008 6:58:04 PM

its a 1996 wellcraft with a 5.2 V8 mercruiser. it's at crosswinds marina on Jordan Lake. it's a stern drive.

[Edited on November 24, 2008 at 9:16 PM. Reason : /]

11/24/2008 9:15:01 PM

^^op didn't say what engine type. I assumed ob, since that's a popular engine, especially for tww'ers.

Other than shrink-wrapping and/or climate controlled storage, I've never heard of anyone doing anything different to an ob in NC. What else is there (curious for my boat)?

11/24/2008 9:39:12 PM

^I load the engine up with that storage fogging spray that CRC makes.

The biggest thing about storing an outboard is making sure that the cylinders and crankcase are adequately lubed to prevent rusting, ring sticking, and the like.

Best thing to do is to disconnect the fuel line and run it dry while fogging the carbs. Short of that, run it dry and load with SeaFoam Deep Creep or WD40. When I say run it dry, I don't mean without your water muffs or a garden hose!

On many, I've just pulled the plugs and squirted a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders, then put the plugs back on and spun the starter a couple of rounds.

As far as inboards, stern drives, V-drives, etc...You HAVE to drain the block and exhaust heat exchangers. You WILL crack shit if you don't. I sold a friend of mine a used Vortec 4.3 for his Merc Alpha One...because he didn't drain everything, he cracked the block.

A lot of the newer stern drives actually have remote cable operated draincocks for the block. I know the Mercs do.

[Edited on November 24, 2008 at 10:10 PM. Reason : blah.]

11/24/2008 10:07:43 PM

just fish all winter like my dad and me

11/24/2008 10:45:23 PM

in your driveway

11/24/2008 11:47:27 PM

Quote :

"On many, I've just pulled the plugs and squirted a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders, then put the plugs back on and spun the starter a couple of rounds. "

I pour MMO in the carb until it chokes it out. I know a lot of guys pour some directly into the cylinders too.

Quote :

"its a 1996 wellcraft with a 5.2 V8 mercruiser. it's at crosswinds marina on Jordan Lake. it's a stern drive."

Put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank. Ideally you would want to then run the boat for several minutes to pull the stabilized fuel into the carbs.

There really isn't that much to the actual winterization. I've just never done an I/O.
- There should be two drain plugs on the block (one on each side) that you take off with a socket wrench (9/16" I think.)
- There should be two drain plugs for the exhaust manifolds (one per manifold). These will probably have square heads which you just plug a 1/2" drive socket wrench directly onto. If you don't have a 1/2" drive wrench you can buy an adapter for your 5/8" drive wrench for $4 at Lowes.

Turn the engine over a few times with the plugs out. A lot more water will spray out.

Then you just need to figure out where there might be other pockets of water. Pull the cooling hoses and dump as much water out of them as possible. Look for a drain on the thermostat housing or pull the housing itself to drain the water from it. Once you look at it and see how the water flows it usually isn't that hard to figure out what to drain. I know Mercruiser does recommend removing the thermostat housing and pouring a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix in the block until it until it is full. Most people think this is overkill, but I know of at least one case where someone ended up with a cracked head and block from water trapped in a little pocket. If you do this, make sure you use the non-toxic RV antifreeze (the pink stuff.)

Disconnect your battery. Most people also do an oil change as part of their winterization. Fogging the carb is recommended as well.

[Edited on November 25, 2008 at 2:50 AM. Reason : l]

11/25/2008 2:47:11 AM