Got a bunch of yard questions, so I'm going to number them.

1) Couple years ago I had the backyard full of weeds and shit tilled up and seeded. We had some awful rain afterwards that ended up causing a lot of the seed to rot. So I have sections of the backyard that are weed covered again, and areas that are just basically dirt. I want to throw some seed down, but is now a good time to seed? I guess this time I would need to seed and toss generous amounts of hay to cover it. What about in the sections with weeds? Could I spray it with weed killer and seed it at the same time, or will this just eat up the grass seeds too?

2) We have an angled driveway that only fits one car. The wife drives in straight and goes into the yard some. Would it be hard to DIY and extend the driveway over there? If we mixed up the concrete will it clash horribly with the 20+ year old concrete already there?

3) The front yard is a grass/weeds mix, but all very low plants. If I treat it with some strong weed killer and then seed it, would this be enough, or do I need to get somebody to till it and then seed the whole thing? I plan to redo all of the flower beds, but I don't want them to look nice and then have this awful looking yard when folks driveby.

I've got some more I'll add in a bit.

3/7/2009 1:19:16 PM

now's not a good time to seed-- I'm assuming you'd be seeding fescue?

it'll come up and you'll have nice young grass that will die out when the summer heat kicks in. For fescue, the only good time to seed is early fall.

Also, don't throw straw down over the seed. you'll have straw growing all over your yard as a result.

3/7/2009 1:30:41 PM

See I didn't straw the backyard and when it rained, the grass seed ran into pools and rotted. Wasn't sure if there was something I could do to help keep it in place in case it rained again. When should I treat the weeds to get rid of them? Don't want to have the yard to all turn brown if I treat it and then have a summer with no grass!

3/7/2009 1:37:33 PM

you can use other types of mulch besides straw, if it's not a gigantic area, you can get grass mats that will lock in moisture and also break down into fertilizer over time.

you should have used a pre-emergent a month ago to prevent the weeds from germinating. If you're going to do any kind of weed control now, it's definitely going to prevent grass seedlings from growing.

3/7/2009 1:48:31 PM

^But should I control the weeds now and then they won't be there in the fall when I seed?

3/7/2009 2:01:25 PM

is there a type of grass that'll grow in shade?

most of my backyard is shaded by large oak trees

3/7/2009 2:04:06 PM

^^ that's probably the best course of action.

^ st. augustine grass is the most shade tolerant grass, it's that coarse stuff found in florida.

some fescue hybrids are pretty good too.

3/7/2009 2:06:57 PM

St. Augustine is a warm season grass too...it will be green from May to August.

It's peak time for seeding is early May.

I would use Round-Up or GlyStar to kill the existing vegetation, till, rake, seed, sprig, or sod and water like crazy.

Also, it is a good idea to take some soil samples to see where how your yard is deficient and fertilize accordingly. This can be done for free by the Ag Extension at NCSU and the report they give you will tell you how much fertilizer to apply per acre.

About the concrete, it is not hard at all to DIY some driveway. The problem with concrete is that you either have to take a day off of work to do it, or find a concrete plant that runs on Saturday. It is probably easier to do the former rather than the latter. Color wise, there will always be a difference, but after a few months, it won't be shining like a new penny.

[Edited on March 7, 2009 at 11:19 PM. Reason : .]

3/7/2009 11:18:39 PM

about the concrete - the color is not what you have to worry about. If you don't do it right, it will crack and sink, and it will end up being a big mess and look worse than before. If you do it yourself, you will need to follow all the proper procedures of digging down to a certain level, putting down hard packed gravel, using the right kind of concrete, scoring it if necessary, etc

3/8/2009 10:28:44 AM

re-enforcement is pretty cheap and should help with cracking and strength

3/8/2009 12:05:35 PM

Aren't you in eastern NC? If so I'd recommend going with Centipede. It's very weather resistant. In the winter or during heavy drought it will turn brown, but as soon as it warms up or you get some rain it will come right back with no dead spots. That's what my parents have in Rocky Mount and at Lake Gaston. They haven't done any watering or seeding in 20 years and it's still full. We do have to move some plugs in the hard clay spots at the lake from time to time, but we don't have that problem in Rocky Mount.

It seems to handle the shade of some huge old pine trees just fine, although heavy shade might be a problem.

3/8/2009 12:54:12 PM

Anyone ever used that patchmaster stuff (or whatever its called)

its got fescue seed, fertilizer, and moss mixed together. ive got a bunch of dog pee spots and was gonna get seed etc...but i was feeling lazy. anyone used it before?

also i have some moss on the shady, side of my yard. i put down a bunch of lime a month ago...and for some reason i was thinking it would get rid of the moss but it didn't. any other ideas (although i probably won't do it until i seed in the fall)

3/9/2009 11:21:16 PM

I put something like that down in my yard. I have seeded every fall for three years, but I had a few spots of hard red clay that never really did anything. I was planning to borrow a tiller and till in some compost, but I didn't have time last fall so I busted up the clay with a shovel and put down some stuff like that from Home Depot. I forget what it is called, but it had seed, fertilizer, and newspapers (for mulch) chopped up in the mix. It took really well and has done surprisingly well through the winter. It stayed green almost all winter and the grass looks pretty thick and healthy. It recently browned, but I'm not surprised with all the freezing temps and snow we've had. I'm hoping it will last through the summer.

3/10/2009 2:59:14 AM

are you here in raleigh/southeast?

was it just the spots you filled in that browned over the winter?

3/10/2009 4:22:51 PM

ROK (Raleigh OFF KAPLAN)

The whole lawn (mostly fescue) turned brown, but the spots stayed bright green for over a month after the rest of the lawn had already turned. It makes me think it is probably a good cold weather grass. I didn't even look to see what kind of seed it was. Hopefully it'll survive the summer.

3/10/2009 5:15:25 PM

Quote :

"Would it be hard to DIY and extend the driveway over there? If we mixed up the concrete will it clash horribly with the 20+ year old concrete already there?"

Do you have the ability to properly prepare the subgrade, install a compacted gravel base and pour the pad with proper reinforcing, control joints and expansion joints? If you can do all of that, then ignore me and go right ahead. If you have the slightest bit of doubt about your ability to do any of this, then don't even think about it. The clashing color and finish of old and new concrete will be the least of your worries when your driveway crumbles and collapses.

3/12/2009 11:07:54 AM

Raleigh's soil is pre-packed(rocky as hell, actually). Just pour the concrete and it will be good to go. I've even done pours without rebar that haven't cracked after 10 years.

3/12/2009 1:39:53 PM

Is there any sort of grass that you can plant this time of year in mostly clay soil with a touch of sand that can withstand full, all-day sun and doesn't require a billion gallons of water?

3/12/2009 2:31:59 PM

^^ i'm wondering if you're intentionally setting this guy up for failure.....

3/12/2009 3:45:32 PM

http://www.espoma.com/p_consumer/lawn_overview.html




http://www.gardensalive.com/catalog_request_qas.asp
http://www.gardensalive.com/category.asp_Q_c_E_10





http://www.seedsofchange.com/garden_center/catalog_request.asp
http://www.seedsofchange.com/why_organic_video.asp

3/12/2009 5:14:46 PM

Quote :

"Raleigh's soil is pre-packed(rocky as hell, actually). Just pour the concrete and it will be good to go. I've even done pours without rebar that haven't cracked after 10 years."

3/12/2009 7:13:46 PM

Quote :

"St. Augustine is a warm season grass too...it will be green from May to August. It's peak time for seeding is early May."

It is not possible to seed St. Augustine grass. You must sprig or sod if you want St. Augustine. Also be aware that it is a high maintenance grass, in that it needs fertilizing and watering regularly.

3/12/2009 7:53:50 PM

i spent about 12 hours today tilling and sodding sections of my backyard where the seed didn't take well last fall.

god i'm fucking tired.

3/12/2009 10:12:58 PM

Want a no maintenance, filling, weed devouring grass????

Zoiysa!

seriously

3/12/2009 10:49:37 PM

So what is the best grass for a front yard that is very sunny and a backyard that is just partial sun? I would like something I can seed myself. From reading it appears zoiysa japonica is the only one that I can seed in my yard. I don't have the cash to drop for sod and professional lawnwork, so it has to be something I can do myself.

3/14/2009 12:33:52 PM

So can anybody give me steps on how to wipe out my yard and start over? I tried it once before with tilling and tossing seeds. I did no research and it mostly all just fucking died when it rained real hard. So I want to do it right this time.

To start, I have kinda decided on zoyisa. I am going to seed it. Currently my yard is mainly crabgrass and shit in the front and just weeds and bare in the backyard. What steps exactly should I do? I am reading on the NCSUTurfiles website right now but I figured anybody in here could probably give me better directions for how to do it. Looks like I am in about the right time to do zoyisa.

3/15/2009 2:36:37 PM

Step 1: Roundup
Step 2: Fertilizer
Step 3: Go to Step 1 until dead

3/15/2009 4:23:03 PM

Do you guys use an organic material? saw this post on another board...

Quote :

"Any grass loves organic material. I put it down in a form of liquid called Essentials Plus. However, it take a good pump to spray it. You can't really use a regular hand can. Do this: Go to Wal-Mart and buy 20-25 bags of cow manure. It does not smell, is free from seed as it has been heated high enough to kill the weed seed. Use gloves or a good shovel. It should be dry enough to spread over the yard fairly even. Throw it with a shovel until it is somewhere around 1/2, then take a tined rake, not leaf rake, and even it out with the back of the rake. Let the rain break it down. You can do this now. It will not burn the grass. Fescue is a forgiving grass and will fill in a lot of bare spots from the root system, especially if you have some of the creeping red fescue in the mix. On those dog spots, add a little miracle grow if you have any or mix up just a little of that cow manure with water in a bucket and pour a little on it every week or so. If your pre-em did not have fertilize with it, add the 10-10-10 now as well. Go by the label on the bag for now and a little less than bag rate in June as the heat will react with the Nitrogen and could burn. Make sure the grass gets at least an inch of water a week. Preferable all at one time. Measure this with a large pan in the path of the sprinklers. You will be amazed how pretty the yard will look. These suggestions are no means perfect, but having not seen your lawn, you could do worse than these. I'm cautioning on the lighter side, but more will not make it better. Grass has to grow and must have light, water, and nutrients. Later on a little iron will help."

3/20/2009 5:27:21 PM

All-Natural Fertilizer Sale!! http://www.gardensalive.com/product.asp?pn=2647

Quote :

"Many chemical-based lawn fertilizers call for four to five applications every year for good results. With Lawns Alive! all-natural lawn fertilizers you feed your lawn just twice a year- in spring and early fall! We guarantee your results. After application: - the natural systems of lush lawn growth are stimulated. Beneficial microorganisms in the soil are stimulated to break down the organic materials and re-establish a natural growing environment for your grass. - roots begin to extend deeper into the soil. Nutrients "reservoirs" are created, so roots begin to grow down into the soil again, forming a natural, deep root system. - thatch begins to dissipate. Thatch accumulations decompose, soil loosens and water soaks in deeply instead of running off."

[Edited on April 3, 2009 at 9:10 AM. Reason : ]

4/3/2009 9:10:38 AM

Does anyone know a cheap and reliable service that can basically 'fix' (lol) a yard?

My back yard has a lot behind it that is a natural one with tons of tall trees that block sunlight to alot of the yard, additionally there's a natural grade to it so when it rains the rain pockets in areas and pools up water and keeps the ground and grass always wet. The thing is, this has created a Dagobah like mud pit swamp thing even if I did successfully grow alot of fescue last fall, just couldnt do the job.

So basically I need someone to build some type of drainage system (french drain?) and also sod in a lot of areas, fix a lot of weed problems, and so forth....

4/3/2009 9:30:32 AM

i, too, would be interested in this person

4/3/2009 9:55:25 AM

^^ You don't need a drainage system, you need a guy with a bulldozer to re-grade the lot.

4/3/2009 11:23:35 AM

^
He probably needs both.

4/4/2009 8:23:53 AM

A drywell is probably what you need. A french drain is for moving water from one place to another and it doesn't sound like the grading is going to allow for that to happen very easily. A drywell and a nice helping of fill dirt should do wonders.

Hire a professional.

4/5/2009 3:03:07 AM

Quote :

"For fescue, the only good time to seed is early fall. "

I seeded early fall, but I just reseeded this past week. I read several sites and talked to my neighbor who recommended this.

4/5/2009 2:59:08 PM

Would a french drain work for me? I have one spot near the end of my plot where water runs off. The water has carved out the land. It's now about 5 feet long, 6 inches wide, and 6 inches deep on a 40 degree incline.

4/5/2009 3:31:22 PM

wat?

a picture is worth 1000 words. or in this case, about 50 words.

4/5/2009 11:29:33 PM

Fine. I'll take a pic tomorrow.

4/5/2009 11:30:14 PM

I just planted some centipede in my yard. I've already got about 20% centipede, so I'm going to let that eventually take over and try to help it out.

It's a bit early to plant it, but I hope it comes up. I'm afraid if I plant it in June...as recommended...we'll be under water restrictions and it'll all die.

4/6/2009 7:59:55 AM

I'm a n00b to yardwork machinery but now need to invest in a weed eater.

I'm kind of leaning towards a 4-cycle so I don't have to deal with gas and oil mixing, smelly fumes, etc. Are they just as dependable/powerful as the 2-cycles?

My co-worker is all crazy over his straight shaft weed eater and has me convinced to get the same.

I'd also like for it to be relatively easy to work on, with parts readily available if I ever need to take it to the shop. Kind of like the 350 smallblock of weed eaters Would like option for some kind of edger attachment.

What kind of weed eater should I buy?

4/12/2009 2:35:38 PM

Quote :

"I don't have to deal with gas and oil mixing"

unless you're weed-eating multiple times a week, you only have to do the mixing once a year or so. 2.5 gallons of mix should last the whole season.

4/12/2009 2:43:33 PM

^true

what do you think of this? is it overkill? I'm pretty lax when it comes to lawn care, so I'm not going to be weed whacking twice a week or anything like that.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/gardening/2696256.html?page=3
HUSQVARNA
125L
Price: $200

or are these enough?

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/gardening/2696256.html?page=4
CRAFTSMAN
316.791880
Price: $150

WEEDEATER
Featherlight SST25
Price: $90

4/12/2009 3:49:54 PM

I use an electric weed wacker/trimmer.

4/12/2009 3:59:38 PM

^I just found this before you replied

http://tinyurl.com/dmuwbp

??

I'll probably stay away from electric

[Edited on April 12, 2009 at 4:21 PM. Reason : ]

4/12/2009 4:01:09 PM

I have a Troy-Built 2stroke with the quick attachment.

I have the straight shaft trimmer, a turbo blower, and an edger that all hook up to the same motor. For me it is great. I have all the tools, but I only have to worry about maintaining one motor. (one spark plug, one air filter, etc.) Plus, the attachments are not that awfully expensive. I just bought the edger last weekend for $70.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=95420-65481-TB525&lpage=none

4/12/2009 10:26:51 PM

Anyone have ballpark prices for flagstone? Looking to do a patio and trying to get an idea of how much it'll cost.

4/13/2009 10:50:33 AM

Lowe's says $3/SF.

I would call these guys and get a budget number.

http://www.trianglelandscapesupplies.com/index.html

4/13/2009 11:05:42 AM

Alright, my wife and I bought our first house last July. Due to the improvements we were making inside the house we didn't touch the yard last fall. Now it is spring time and I need to know what I can do to my lawn now and/or in preparation for seeding in the fall. Our lot is almost .5 acres with about .25 acres of it "natural areas" covered in leaves. We have a ton of trees on our lot especially in the back. My questions are this:

1) We want to remove some trees to make more of the backyard usable space. Does anybody a contractor to recommend for this?

2) We want to add more grass to our lawn and reduce alot of the natural area. What grass should I plant and what time of the year? Because of all the trees it is shaded so it would have to be a seed that doesn't need alot of sun

3) Is there a place to buy mulch in bulk that would be cheaper than buying the bags at lowes or home depot?

4) If i need to seed in the fall is there anything I should be doing to the existing grass and soil now?

I want to try and do this stuff on my own to save money but I have never had to maintain a lawn before.

4/19/2009 5:31:11 PM

[Edited on April 19, 2009 at 5:52 PM. Reason : dbl post]

4/19/2009 5:48:30 PM

Quote :

"25cc four-cycle/two-stroke hybrid"

Whaaaaat?


http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/gardening/2696256.html?page=3

from the same link posted up the page





also, am i the only one who prefers a manual sidewalk edger? I think it's easier to get good looking results.

4/19/2009 5:52:19 PM