but runs well otherwise...i ONLY want it for hauling smaller items that are too big to fit in my car (so maybe 1k miles/year?)...how much would a clutch cost? guy's asking $350 for it right now...i called to find out mileage, but had to leave a message

7/24/2009 7:57:46 AM

200

7/24/2009 8:25:06 AM

is that just parts cost? i sure as balls can't do it myself...i'd n00b all over it and end up getting myself killed

7/24/2009 8:30:02 AM

a clutch isnt that hard on a rear drive, and its even easier in a ranger. the retarded thing about them is that the slave cylinder is in the trans. IIRC the clutch is pretty pricey for one of those units. find someone the works at advance/carquest. and used their discount.

7/24/2009 9:34:23 AM

It's after 8:00 a.m. Just call a shop and ask them how much it normally runs. You'll get a quicker and more accurate answer that way.

7/24/2009 9:49:32 AM

Don't do it. My dad had one, and from what we've learned, rangers are horrible for going through throw out bearings. Unless you were looking to flip it, I wouldn't touch an older ranger...

[Edited on July 24, 2009 at 10:21 AM. Reason : .]

7/24/2009 10:21:22 AM

nah, i just want something to haul smaller things around in...i don't care if it's ugly, i just want it to run (and continue running without a lot of work)

7/24/2009 10:43:20 AM

v6 or 4 banger

7/24/2009 10:44:44 AM

^^ Well then, I wish you the best.

I'd go to Advanced Auto's online part website...

2.3L
Perfection Clutch Set
Part No. MU47801-1B
New Clutch Set; Contains Clutch Disc, Cover Assembly, Release Bearing, Pilot Bushing, Alignment Tool & Hydraulic Tool; Cover Type: Diaph.; 8 7/8x23Tx1; May Be Larger Diam. Repl. Clutch. Flywheel Repl. Recommended; Otherwise, Flywheel Must Be Resurfaced.
Warranty LIMITED LIFETIME REPLACEMENT
Offer Price: $99.99

Motormite Flywheel/Flexplate
Part No. 04041
FLEXPLATE
Warranty 1 YEAR REPLACEMENT IF DEFECTIVE
Offer Price: $67.99

Hope this helps

Total: $167.98 (pending sales tax, funds for beverages during labor, etc.. )

Advanced auto ftw.




[Edited on July 24, 2009 at 11:03 AM. Reason : pressure plate included in clutch kit]

7/24/2009 10:45:48 AM

^^ 2.3L i4, 2wd

^ ah, thxu

[Edited on July 24, 2009 at 11:03 AM. Reason : .]

7/24/2009 10:49:13 AM

Here's Summit Racing's search results, for comparison

Clutch Kits:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Clutch-Kits/Year/1990/Make/FORD/Model/RANGER/Engine-Size/2-3L-140/?keyword=clutch

Flywheels:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Make/FORD/Year/1990/Model/RANGER/?keyword=flywheel


You are looking
Zoom MU47801-1B - Zoom MU Series Clutches
View Image and Compare
Compare Clutch Kit, Organic, 1 in. Diameter Shaft, 23-Spline, 8.875 in. Diameter Disc, Ford, 2.9/3.0L, Kit
Part Number: ZZZ-MU47801-1B
Price: $85.95

Zoom 50-703 - Zoom OE Replacement Flywheels
View Image and Compare
Compare Flywheel, Ductile Iron, 132-Tooth, Internal Engine Balance, Ford, Merkur, 2.0, 2.3L, Each
Part Number: ZZZ-50-703
Price: $57.99

At the minimum: $143.94+shipping

7/24/2009 11:21:45 AM

No, I meant the truck is worth $200, but yeah as you can see the parts are gonna cost you approximately the same.

Even with a new clutch its worth $500


So if putting $550 plus tags and insurance into something that is worth only $500 is your thing...

7/24/2009 11:51:56 AM

^ You're trying to buy it to part out aren't you.

7/24/2009 11:54:29 AM

7/24/2009 12:13:33 PM

no

7/24/2009 12:38:13 PM

Quote :

"^^ 2.3L i4, 2wd "

even if you drive it with no oil that truck is going to ast 400K miles.

8 spark plugs ftw.

so puttin the money the 200 some bucks is worth it. IMO

7/24/2009 1:53:37 PM

those trucks are very tough and cheap to work on. if it's not totally ragged out it's worth putting a clutch in.

7/24/2009 5:49:31 PM

$3

7/27/2009 8:28:20 PM

just hire me to haul your shit

7/27/2009 8:33:14 PM

like a clutch is the only thing it needs for $350

7/27/2009 8:57:05 PM

so a clutch costs 350 to fix? i was told since i'm not use to manuals that i might mess mine up quicker than the average manual driver.

7/27/2009 8:59:47 PM

From what I was told, you aren't a very good driver and you might mess up cars quicker than the average driver. Better stick with two legs or maybe a moped/bicycle.


I'm just kidding. I don't know you.


[Edited on July 27, 2009 at 9:16 PM. Reason : .]

7/27/2009 9:15:24 PM

well other than selling me and the chink our washer and dryer at the beginning of february 2008

[Edited on July 27, 2009 at 9:16 PM. Reason : .]

7/27/2009 9:16:09 PM

Oh snap! I think I recall that! lol. Oh boy that was a pain in the ass getting it into that weight room wasn't it?

lol, i can't believe you called her a chink...

I actually wish i didn't sell that washer/dryer. We moved out not to long after and needed another set That set we sold you was nice...

[Edited on July 27, 2009 at 9:18 PM. Reason : .]

7/27/2009 9:17:25 PM

well she got chink status after she screwed me. btw i sold that washer and dryer for 75(for the pair) on craigslist. got 30 emails like the first day.

7/27/2009 9:26:07 PM

i have a 91 with over 250K on it, did a clutch at 200K but the one we took out looked like the one we put in, I had the transmission out to replace that freeze plug at the back of the head so we did it anyway. these trucks are cheap and tough, my 2.3 had roller rockers if I remember and didnt use oil at all. I would put a clutch in it and ride like hell, spray paint it if it looks bad.

7/28/2009 6:13:48 PM

hell yea paint that bitch brick red primer.

7/28/2009 11:08:17 PM

more like hell [no] you stupid fucking piece of white trash

7/29/2009 4:32:59 AM

not dnl, did I sell it to you for $100 or something like that? If so, gg recouping the monies

She was cute if iirc... Anyways...

7/29/2009 8:51:00 AM

I currently drive the fuck out of a 1995 with 2.3L and a stick. Bitch has over 255k miles and runs like a top. I put 60+ miles on it a day with my commute and its still on damn near stock everything. Engine is a piece of cake to work on too. They never burn oil either. I currently do the 15k mile Mobile1 synthetic oil and almost never have to top it off.

I could afford to buy another vehicle and have seriously considered it, but I still can't get over the fact that this truck will probably run to 500k with no serious fuckups; so why waste the money on a new ride. I'm fairly certain I will drive this truck for another 5 years, easy.

7/29/2009 9:36:20 AM

i think its gone know. i havent seen it on cl

7/29/2009 10:18:19 AM

is the 2.8L V6 as reliable as the 4-cyl? looking at an '83 with 221k (supposedly, since the odometer is only 5 numbers instead of 6) that is in good running condition...he's asking more than i think it's worth, and i haven't seen the truck yet...but he might come down

can't hurt to look, anyway...still just need a beater that i can haul small things in, which is why i thought the I4 would be good enough (and with better fuel economy)

things to look at on it?

8/3/2009 11:27:40 AM

i doubt the fuel economy would be that big of a deal between the 2.8 and the 4 banger

you're not planning on driving it much anyway, right?

8/3/2009 11:33:34 AM

no...i'll need to drive down to beaufort at the end of the month and haul some stuff back, but that's the longest trip i can think of in the near future...the rest will be all within about 100 miles round-trip

8/3/2009 11:39:00 AM

fuel economy would be near the bottom of my list. reliability would come first.

with that said, i have no idea how the various ranger engines stack up in reliability.

8/3/2009 12:11:12 PM

oh, don't get me wrong...fuel economy isn't really that important...but i've seen A LOT of older 4-cyl rangers on CL and since people seem to think they're great, i thought i'd specifically look for one

if the V6's are also awesome, i'm down with that, too

8/3/2009 1:07:27 PM

I think I managed to pull out ~25mpg average (75% city, 25% highway) with a 4 cyl manual ranger... not bad imo.

8/3/2009 1:08:54 PM

i wish i could remember what engine is in my gf's dad's. that thing is very reliable.

8/3/2009 1:11:45 PM

Just get a trailer hitch and a trailer.
All the functionality you're going to get from a Ranger, none of the breaking down.

8/3/2009 2:38:21 PM

^ i don't know that my saturn will be able to haul a trailer very well...a hitch is $150, then installation (are they hard to install?) and then a CHEAP trailer is probably $250-300 from harbor freight...assuming $50 to install it, that's still about $500 (plus taxes, license, and registration for the trailer, right?) AND the fact that i'd need to put a cheap trailer like that together, which would probably take an afternoon

at least the truck gives me some added value and fewer headaches (assuming it works, of course)

8/3/2009 4:15:30 PM

Search your car on http://www.etrailer.com/fitguide.htm. It will tell you what hitches are available, how much it costs, and how difficult it is to install. There should be a link to a .pdf of install instructions.

Usually it's pretty simple...You just bolt it to the frame rail with four bolts. Sometimes I've had to do little things like lower the exhaust a few inches and raise it back when done, but that's always in the instructions so you'll know before you buy it. Some cars do require drilling and running bolts into the trunk area or something. I've never had to deal with one like that, so I don't really know what is involved.

Most cars will tow at least 1k-2k, but that's all google-able info.

The utility trailers at Northern Tool are fully assembled at the store prior to sale. You know you're just going to buy one off Craigslist though, so I don't know why that matters.

[Edited on August 3, 2009 at 4:49 PM. Reason : l]

8/3/2009 4:38:30 PM

Quote :

"the functionality you're going to get from a Ranger, none of the breaking down. "

hes right. those things are bomb proof

8/3/2009 10:34:43 PM

If nothing else, a hitch with a ball keeps you from getting rear-ended by some idiot who doesn't know forward from reverse.

8/4/2009 6:59:50 AM

not really

8/4/2009 7:04:54 AM

^^^^ ah, that site's like crutchfield is for car stereos and speakers...awesome

okay, so my saturn can haul 2,000lbs with a tongue weight of 200lbs...looks like you have to lower the muffler and drill through the trunk no matter what

the draw-tite is $133 and is the easiest to install (level 5, 50 minutes): http://www.etrailer.com/pc-H~24620.htm?vehicleid=20028033

the hidden hitch is $153 with free shipping and comes with drawbar, pin, and clip and is harder to install (level 7, 70 minutes): http://www.etrailer.com/pc-H~60839.htm?vehicleid=20028034

because of the way they attach to the car, i would assume that you'd only want to use this for towing, not for bike racks or cargo carriers...not a bad option, though i doubt i have the hardware to drill through my trunk

also, the average price for a 4x8 trailer on CL is about $450-500...there are some beat-up ones for about $250-300...

[Edited on August 4, 2009 at 8:07 AM. Reason : fixed links]

8/4/2009 7:46:28 AM

Don't buy the beat up one thinking you're going to save money. The last one I did was $150, but it ended up costing me over $200 to fix up. Bad hub, leaky tires, all new deck, new side rails, etc. all added up. Plus I had to buy some nice bits and cutting oil to drill through the grade 8 bolts that were holding that hub on. I'd have done much better to just spend $400 and get a nicer one.

I think the 4'x6' trailer I've been using for several years was only $339 at Northern Tool; on sale from $369 or something. It's a really good size. I can fit my ATV on it, 4'x8' sheets of plywood go on smoothly, and I've loaded lumber as long as 12' on it several times (although that's a little iffy.) The main thing I like is that it is so lightweight. I can drag it around the yard like a cart and use it to haul trash to the street by hand if I need to.

If your tongue weight is supposed to be 200 I don't see any reason not to put a bike rack on it. Even with three bikes and the rack itself you should be over 100 lbs. That gives you 100 lbs to account for leverage and bumps.

[Edited on August 4, 2009 at 10:43 AM. Reason : s]

8/4/2009 10:40:27 AM

well, that's my point...$200 for hitch and install and $400 for a trailer is $600...if i can get a truck for $350 with $150 worth of work, or $500 with no work, it's cheaper and i have something i can sell later on (i don't know that adding a trailer hitch to my saturn is going to increase the value much)

i don't know...i'm still thinking about it...if i can get a great deal on a reliable truck, i'll probably still do that

8/4/2009 10:53:22 AM

you dont have to register and insure a hitch and trailer, or change the oil, and two less tires

8/5/2009 11:42:00 AM

i thought you had to have a plate for a trailer...? that's registration of some sort, yes?

anyway, i think y'all are probably right and i'll go with a trailer...looked at two trucks yesterday and both were in pretty bad shape overall, even if they run fine...bad enough shape that i would expect SOMETHING to go wrong on them in the near future...too expensive for me to get one that isn't falling apart SOMEWHERE

8/5/2009 1:07:53 PM

you dont need to register a lil tiny trailer

anyhow BBR said this weekend that a lifetime trailer tag is like $70

8/5/2009 1:42:10 PM