Im about to delve into a clutch job on one of these. Its RWD, 24v..

Carquest/dealer is closed by now, but before i start i want to quote the prices for this guy accurately.

The carquest site has about 5 different clutch options on this thing.

12 3/4 or 13 inch OD, HD or STD or kevlar or ceramic.

I know some of you guys are diesel fanboys. what clutch would you get for yours if you needed one. This is a work truck that does alot of towing heavy stuff.

thanks


here is carquests page: (DONT know if it will be readable but whatever)

1 CARQUEST New Clutch Kits 05-092 $355.78 $251.39 29% 4 0 0

New Clutch Kit
DISC SPEC: 12-1/4" OD X 1-1/4" ID X 10T - FLYWHEEL SPEC: FLAT
STD KIT
5 SPD TRANS - CUMMINS ENG
1 CARQUEST New Clutch Kits 05-092SR100 $539.13 $380.94 29% 5 0 0

New Clutch Kit
DISC SPEC: 12-1/4" OD X 1-1/4" ID X 10T - FLYWHEEL SPEC: FLAT
HD OPT
5 SPD TRANS - CUMMINS ENG
1 CARQUEST New Clutch Kits 05-092SR200 $600.63 $424.40 29% 2 1 0

New Clutch Kit
DISC SPEC: 12-1/4" OD X 1-1/4" ID X 10T - FLYWHEEL SPEC: FLAT
KEVLAR FACING OPT
5 SPD TRANS - CUMMINS ENG
1 CARQUEST New Clutch Kits 05-092SR300 $660.04 $466.38 29% 0 0 0

Please call the store for additional information.
New Clutch Kit
DISC SPEC: 12-1/4" OD X 1-1/4" ID X 10T - FLYWHEEL SPEC: FLAT
HD CERAMIC BUTTON OPT
5 SPD TRANS - CUMMINS ENG
1 CARQUEST New Clutch Kits 05-901SR100 $886.20 $626.18 29% 0 0 0

Please call the store for additional information.
New Clutch Kit
FLYWHEEL SPEC: FLAT - KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL - DISC SPEC: 13" OD X 1-1/4'' ID X 10T - 13" HEAVY DUTY OPTION - 5 SPD TRANS
1 CARQUEST New Clutch Kits 05-901SR200 $1,443.07 $1,019.66 29% 0 0 0

Please call the store for additional information.
New Clutch Kit
FLYWHEEL SPEC: FLAT - KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL - DISC SPEC: 13" OD X 1-1/4'' ID X 10T - 13" KEVLAR FACING OPTION - 5 SPD TRANS
1 CARQUEST New Clutch Kits 05-901SR300 $1,443.07 $1,019.66 29% 0 0 0

Please call the store for additional information.
New Clutch Kit
FLYWHEEL SPEC: FLAT - KIT INCLUDES FLYWHEEL - DISC SPEC: 13" OD X 1-1/4'' ID X 10T - 13" CERAMIC BUTTON OPTION - 5 SPD TRANS

12/24/2010 5:06:33 PM

I'd look to the aftermarket for a clutch, not one from a standard parts store. southbend, con fe, etc. Hurley should jump in shortly.....

12/24/2010 11:14:14 PM

+1 for southbend, it's what's in my 12v. I don't really have much else in the ballpark to go on for reference, but i've always heard you can't go wrong with them

though mine is starting to slip when i push it hard with a load, not sure if i need to adjust something or if i'm wearing it down finally...I want to say it's something in the hydraulic linkage, because the clutch isn't too old and has up till recently been solid as hell. Sometimes I'll have the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and I still have to jimmy it into gear with the occasional slight pop/grind, so if there's a leak in one of the piston seals that could explain that and the slipping. in fact now that i'm thinking about it, pretty sure it's that and not the clutch assembly itself.

^ need to get you to drive it again, see what ya think.

aaand back to the OP

12/24/2010 11:59:23 PM

http://www.southbendclutch.com/dodge.html

I'd definitely check out South Bend. They have complete offerings for just about any application.

The only thing about getting a new clutch from Car Quest is that you're dealing with a local supplier, and you'll have corresponding local support. However, you're not going to find much in the way of good complete documentation. I've had good luck over the years with some of them, and that includes applications for medium/heavy duty trucks.

I'd probably stick to organic or ceramic linings, as the feramic (metallic) ones will be hard on the flywheel. Stay away from aggressive puck designs unless you have good low gearing; they have too much driveline shock, and are NOT designed for much slippage. Granted, the '86 Mack Value Liner I drove had a puck style clutch, but then it was NEVER slipped, as low and low-low gears allowed for almost immediate engagement with minimal driveline shock. I could shove this truck into gear without clutching at all.

Multiplate is a cool way to go, but is quite a bit more expensive. You get the best of both worlds though: great holding power with great drivability.

12/25/2010 12:57:23 AM

puck clutch on a work truck. stay away. the customer will get sick of the engagement and they tend to wear things quickly.

12/25/2010 1:03:12 PM

Quote :

"The carquest site has about 5 different clutch options on this thing."

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"Please call the store for additional information."

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Quote :

"+1 for southbend, it's what's in my 12v. I don't really have much else in the ballpark to go on for reference, but i've always heard you can't go wrong with them though mine is starting to slip when i push it hard with a load, not sure if i need to adjust something or if i'm wearing it down finally...I want to say it's something in the hydraulic linkage, because the clutch isn't too old and has up till recently been solid as hell. Sometimes I'll have the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and I still have to jimmy it into gear with the occasional slight pop/grind, so if there's a leak in one of the piston seals that could explain that and the slipping. in fact now that i'm thinking about it, pretty sure it's that and not the clutch assembly itself. "

What kind of load are you hauling that is making your clutch slip? Did you install it? How can you be sure its a southbend?

Quote :

"I don't really have much else in the ballpark to go on for reference, but i've always heard you can't go wrong with them"

This is what folks used to say all the time about optima red top batteries (and some still do). I am not saying that a SB clutch isnt any good, but if you have one, its slipping. Search some forums and you will find more occurances of the same problems. I ran a 15k load last week, 16k three weeks ago, and do this on a regular basis, my clutch never slips. Start unloaded in 2nd and it chatters but other than that no unusual behavior. Ever. It says LUK on it, and I am very happy with it. I am hard on a clutch, have worn them out or ripped the centers out since I learned how to drive a manual and with the cummins torque I expected problems with the clutch, but have not had any.

Oh and your problem getting into gear isnt the clutch. The slipping problem is either clutch/flywheel.

12/26/2010 12:04:14 PM

it's not so much the load...if i grandfather it around like i should be (loaded or unloaded) it never slips. but even unladen if i put it in 4th or 5th and stomp on it, i can break the clutch free. it's really not a problem at all, or hasn't been yet, because if i drive conservatively even with a big load it won't slip.

might just be that the clutch he bought is slightly under-sized for the mods on that engine and i never noticed the small slippage till i got comfortable with the truck. i'll have to dig out the paperwork he gave me with the truck to find the SB model (I'm confident that's what's in there though I haven't put eyes on yet), but i won't really know what size clutch i need till i dyno it anyway. and i probably wont do that until i finish doing what i want to the motor.

i guess it's always possible i got lied to and/or SB clutches are bunk, but due to the circumstances i'm more inclined to believe i have a unique issue. what is your opinion on the gearing, though? it happens mostly when i try to put it in reverse, about 1/5 of the time i have to finesse it with the clutch floored to keep from grinding it into gear. and much less often it will protest slightly going into a random forward gear. my guess is a leak somewhere in the clutch hydraulics, but i don't know enough about it to be sure.

sorry Air i'm not trying to hijack your thread

[Edited on December 26, 2010 at 1:27 PM. Reason : afsd]

12/26/2010 1:17:41 PM

Quote :

"Oh and your problem getting into gear isnt the clutch. The slipping problem is either clutch/flywheel."

Joel, you ever heard of clutch diaphragm fatigue? It happens on a lot of high mileage/abused/overheated clutches where the diaphragm itself loses some of its temper and doesn't completely disengage. It happens, kemosabe. Misalignment isn't always the culprit, and in this day and age of relatively precise machining, it's much more rare.

Diaphragm fatigue also has much to do with slipping at high mileage (due to loss of clamping force), though disc wear also plays a large part in this.

By the way, LuK is OEM. Lots of Carquest clutches are LuK or Fichtel & Sachs.

12/26/2010 6:11:21 PM

~cough~

southbend, as stated above. get the highest torque rating you can afford. as zx said multi-plate is always good

12/27/2010 11:41:05 AM

Optimusprimer:

Quote :

"Carquest/dealer is closed by now, but before i start i want to quote the prices for this guy accurately."

Well thanks for the opinions. I have no clue when it comes to clutches on this car since the only ones i have dealt with were textralias and they dont work on a cummins.

12/28/2010 12:29:10 AM

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fucking idiot

12/28/2010 2:23:02 AM