a tree fell on our lower deck in the storm a couple of weeks ago...we removed the tree but i'm just now getting around to finding time for fixing the damage

the damage in the pictures below is on the deck itself (top step), so if i were to replace the (joist? whatever you all the damaged piece), i'd have to remove all of the steps and possibly replace more than just the two damaged boards...i don't really want to take the time to do that if i don't have to

if i can just "fix" the damaged joist, how would i do it? cut out the damaged area, cut a piece to fit, and use a tie plate?

5/3/2011 12:33:54 PM

Yes, the correct way is to remove the steps and replace the center stringer(the angled 45 board). If everything else is solid though, I would cut a small piece of 2x10, nail it to the remaining center stringer from the side to restore that corner, then replace the couple of decking boards that are busted.

Those decking boards aren't cheap, btw.

[Edited on May 3, 2011 at 12:38 PM. Reason : .]

5/3/2011 12:37:14 PM

yeah, i know that composite ain't cheap at all...once of the reasons i'm trying to do as little work as possible

it DOES feel very solid, which is the reason i considered patching it instead of replacing it

would patching it violate code? i would assume so

5/3/2011 12:44:48 PM

Really? Nobody is going to care. Just nail a block of wood on the side to give the deck board support and call it a day. You'd be wasting a lot of money to anything else. If you wanted it to be stronger, run the bracing board all the way to the ground.

Nail, don't screw the two boards together. Nails are meant to handle the opposing shearing weight. Screws often do not.

[Edited on May 3, 2011 at 2:11 PM. Reason : .]

5/3/2011 2:09:21 PM

so it's not even worth cleaning up that rough break and fitting a piece on top? just nail a board parallel to the busted one?

5/3/2011 3:06:40 PM

Yep, just stick it right beside it.

5/3/2011 3:25:09 PM

y'all have validated me and i appreciate it

5/3/2011 7:12:52 PM

glue and nail a new board on either side of the broken stringer, and then replace the top boards and the facing board. Extract strength.

5/3/2011 9:22:50 PM

If you are going to use nails, at least use P/L or something.

I would personally suggest good quality screws (not the crap you buy in the 4 pack at lowes) and PL.

5/4/2011 9:42:42 AM

I was thinking screws were a good idea as well but apparantly Carzin knows better.

5/4/2011 11:09:14 AM

Fuck a goddamn nail. SCREWS. They'll handle shear just fine, especially if you use enough of them or an appropriate size. The beauty of screws is that you have a clamping force that doesn't rely on pure friction...and by clamping, you transfer a lot of the load with tensile stresses...which are much better than fucking shear stresses any day.

5/4/2011 11:38:31 AM

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/967794/shear_strength_of_nails_drywall_screws_construction_screw/

I guess you can if you use the right screws. I dont think screws are used very often for framing.

Also, replying to the above, if you nail multiple nails at opposing angles, you are not just using friction to hold the board in place. If you nail them all straight on, sure.

[Edited on May 4, 2011 at 11:43 AM. Reason : .]

5/4/2011 11:40:52 AM

Screws are fine, as long as they are good decking screws. Don't shoot some thin cast black drywall screws in it and expect it not to snap one day.

5/4/2011 11:47:57 AM

^^ That video is almost completely irrelevant.

Just a few of the major flaws in it:

- He is not strictly comparing sheer force. Except with his first hit on the drywall screw, he hits really high on the pieces. Mostly what he is doing is testing the force required to bend and eventually stress break the metal shaft.

- 16 penny nails have a thicker shaft than 10 gauge nails do. Also made from a different metal depending on the use. "General Purpose Construction Screws" might as well be made out of recycled coke cans.

- If you are considering drywall screws for anything other than drywall, you deserve the injury that is incoming.

Using nails for anything outside is just asking for trouble, because as the wood shrinks, warps, and ages, itll most likely pull nails out (think deck boards that are lifting, or loose stair railing).

Use a high quality screw, intended for the work you are going to do. Invest in a good driver and bit set, and if a screw only has phillips on it, throw it away, its crap.

5/4/2011 12:36:03 PM

Quite honestly, this isnt worth bickering about. He could tape the board to the stringer and it would do just find as long as the deck boards were nailed to it, and he anchored the support to the ground.

If you google nail versus screw, you will see there is significant debate on the issue, so there isnt a clearcut answer.

5/4/2011 1:10:23 PM

i've got a boatload of decking screws (the gray ones, if that means anything) and 16 penny nails...sounds like it won't make much difference

thanks for all the feedback...i'm just happy i'll only have to place a couple of boards and throw some support on the sides of the stringer...makes my life easier without making my wallet much lighter

5/4/2011 1:28:17 PM

Quote :

"I dont think screws are used very often for framing."

but anyone who isn't half retarded uses them for decks

5/4/2011 3:49:17 PM

screws are used often for framing, just not as much as nails because of the cost. i know helping out my buddies construction site all of the framers had auto-feed screwguns.

5/4/2011 4:32:35 PM