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 Message Boards » » How to replace a lawn mower starter cord? Page [1]  
quagmire02
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i know this is a "dumb" question...especially since i've replaced a pull string before...but my current mower isn't like the ones i've worked on before where the cord is in the top part of the mower housing...i pulled off the top and the string goes even farther down into the engine and it looks like i have to take the whole thing apart to replace it

i can get pictures at lunch, but i figured i'd post now in case someone is all like "i know exactly what you're talking about, use this guide"...it's a self-propelled 6.75hp craftsman (not that that helps), but it's not a model with the Z-start feature

10/7/2011 8:51:03 AM

quagmire02
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okay, it does have the z-start feature, whatever that is...also, pics:











the hex bolts look like they only remove the plastic ring around the middle part...that middle part with the vents (or whatever) is held on with...metal pins?...anyway, something that doesn't appear to have a means by which to unscrew it

10/7/2011 1:38:15 PM

quagmire02
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YOU PEOPLE ARE USELESS

i think i'm going to need to remove the fuel tank...? ugh, what a stupid design...probably the z-start's fault

10/7/2011 2:20:00 PM

Skack
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I think you have to take it all apart. I remember my dad saying it was a PITA and I want to say it required a special tool.

10/7/2011 2:25:41 PM

Dr Pepper
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....yeah, half a brain

10/7/2011 2:27:35 PM

AntecK7
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riveter.

drill them out and rivit them back.

[Edited on October 7, 2011 at 2:43 PM. Reason : dd]

10/7/2011 2:43:02 PM

synapse
play so hard
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Quote :
"anyway, something that doesn't appear to have a means by which to unscrew it
"


it might be a rivet, which might or might not have to be removed.

fwiw:
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines/support/frequently-asked-questions/Replacing%20the%20starter%20rope/
http://www.cockeyed.com/lessons/mower/mower01.shtml
http://www.google.com/search?gcx=c&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=replace+a+lawn+mower+starter+cord

10/7/2011 2:45:39 PM

quagmire02
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^ that first one is probably exactly what i need, as it specifically says:

Quote :
"NOTE: You do not have to drill out the rivets to get to the back of the rewind assembly. This is only necessary if you are removing the ENTIRE rewind assembly, (metal housing and all) and are separating it from the blower housing."

the second one i went through first and it wasn't quite what i needed...as for the google search, i've googled that verbatim, but it didn't come up with what i needed...like i said, though, the first one is likely spot-on

y'all aren't useless at all

seriously, thanks for the help

10/7/2011 2:57:46 PM

specialkay
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It is a bitch, i found it easier to take out the rivets and rewind it on a work bench. I have done this on a couple mowers and on several outboard motors. There are several videos on YT on exactly how to do this for a B&S motor.

10/7/2011 3:14:18 PM

quagmire02
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^ ah, this looks to be about right: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iczCZaRiR0Q

[Edited on October 7, 2011 at 3:40 PM. Reason : forgot the link derp derp]

10/7/2011 3:39:58 PM

quagmire02
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well, now the problem is that i found out the spring in the recoil assembly was broken (or became broken once i started to wind it)...i took it apart and just bent the existing spring to make the anchor hook and put it back together...but now when i tighten the bolt, it's too tight...if i loosen it, the bolt turns with the assembly and comes unscrewed (and it hurt like a mofo when it unwound, let me tell you)

i'm hoping i just need some gear oil

[Edited on October 7, 2011 at 6:21 PM. Reason : damnation]

10/7/2011 6:20:36 PM

tchenku
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10/7/2011 8:54:22 PM

specialkay
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not sure of the particular assembly, but some that i have worked on have reverse threaded bolts and there is a lock washer that you have to bend the tabs on to prevent the nut from turning. also look and see if the bolt has a keyway that it should fit in to prevent it from turning. You might want to replace the spring, that could be your problem. There are so many things that can go wrong with these things. Putting in a new spring is a royal PITA, wear safety goggles, those springs tend to jump out of the housing.

[Edited on October 8, 2011 at 3:23 PM. Reason : i cant type]

10/8/2011 3:20:37 PM

quagmire02
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well, what i ended up doing was having my wife hold the (somewhat loose) bolt in place with a screwdriver while i wound it up...it works well enough...i desperately needed to mow today, so it let me get that done...it sometimes catches and i have to tug it a little to make it wind back up, but again, it works

since the bolt isn't tight, it's possible it'll come out at some point, but it's not going to be a huge deal and it should get me by the one (maybe two) more times that are left this season

the spring might need to be replaced...not looking forward to that

10/8/2011 5:54:51 PM

Wolfmarsh
What?
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My pull start just crapped out a couple mows ago as well. The spring popped. I have to rewind it manually now before I start the mower, thank god it always starts on one pull.

Over the winter, I am going to convert it to electric start with some parts I have laying around, and just say fuck it to this whole pull cord business.

10/8/2011 7:15:04 PM

quagmire02
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^ i don't know how hard that would be, but i'd be very interested in converting my pull start to the use-a-drill start type thing craftsman (and i assume other brands) have...my weed whacker has it

maybe that's what you were talking about, anyway

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oN9TIZ2NAt0

10/8/2011 7:21:58 PM

NeuseRvrRat
hello Mr. NSA!
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most newer push mowers start in 1 or 2 pulls. don't see the need for another battery to have die every winter or to have to find a drill every time you wanna cut grass.

10/8/2011 7:34:19 PM

quagmire02
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^ before the string broke, it'd only take 2-3 pulls

it's not that i'm going to go out of my way to "convert" mine, but if i end up needing to replace the spring and/or whole recoil assembly, i might as well save my money and use a drill

10/8/2011 8:42:48 PM

Wolfmarsh
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Im going to use an electric motor, a belt, and a battery. I don't much worry about the battery being charged, my mower is stored in a powered shed.

I thought about puting a stub coming off the wheel the cord is wound on, mine has a hole in the shaft in the middle, and use a drill to start it, like quagmire said. It would have been less practical for me to do it that way though, because I stop and start at least a dozen or more times doing our yard.

To be honest, this is more about me having a winter project to tinker with. I could just run it up to the repair shop and they would fix it cheap if that was all i was after. Pulling the cord doesnt really bother me, but this is cool and fun.

[Edited on October 8, 2011 at 9:27 PM. Reason : .]

[Edited on October 8, 2011 at 9:27 PM. Reason : .]

10/8/2011 9:26:41 PM

 Message Boards » The Garage » How to replace a lawn mower starter cord? Page [1]  
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