I've got 2 sets of used cornhole boards for sale. They're both primed and painted white with an old school NCSU wolf licking chops logo in red painted in the center. Both sets are made to ACA standards.

Set 1 - $65: 1/2" MDF for a uniform, smooth surface. Frame is 2x3's, legs fold up/rotate for easy storage and transport. Hole was cut with a hole saw. Boards slide very well but not too slick.

Set 2 - 45$: The first boards I ever made, plywood top, NOT highest quality plywood (just used what I had in the shop) so they're more textured and aren't quite as slick. Frame is 1x4's, legs fold/rotate for storage. Hole was cut with a jigsaw. Boards are solid and sturdy and in good shape.

10/10/2011 10:37:40 AM

I am interested in set #1.

10/10/2011 10:41:25 AM

be very careful how you store the MDF boards- we used that for the first sets we built (we did 2 sets at once)... if left out in the rain, it ruins the board (the "wood" absorbs water like a paper towel and bubbles up). I will say, it was awesome for play, I just wish it hadn't been left under a deck during a storm

10/10/2011 6:13:09 PM

^I've built a lot of furniture and pieces out of MDF and agree that exposed fibers will soak up moisture like a sponge. However, you can rest assured that I have double primed/sealed then painted these and always store them in my dry shop. Also my truck has a bed cover, so they've always been protected before, during, and after tailgates.

10/11/2011 8:13:34 AM

you don't want them to be slick as glass

10/13/2011 5:39:58 AM

^i agree. That's why I didn't use a polyurethane or polycrilic topcoat. The boards aren't too slick, but do slide, because you don't want boards to be too sticky either.

The $65 set has been sold. The $45 set is still available.

10/13/2011 8:36:51 AM

i used minwax polycrilic (4-5 coats i think) and mine in no way slide too much. might just be cause the bags are old...but it's not a problem with my boards. what did you put over your paint?

10/13/2011 9:31:37 AM

^Nothing. I just used two coats of primer/sealer then a few coats of an outdoor paint then painted the logo on top (not a decal). I thought they slid perfectly and because there was no exposed wood, I decided to forego the poly. They have held up very well and clean up just fine after dirty tailgates and whatnot.

I definitely agree that polycrilic seems to work much better than polyurethane for CH boards, it doesn't yellow much at all and it's not overly slick like polyurethane can often be after several coats. It's water based so it plays nice with non-oil based paints. Not to mention you can apply subsequent coats after only a couple of hours instead of a day as with polyurethane.

The next sets I build are going to have some exposed wood grain, and I'm definitely going to use polycrilic.

[Edited on October 13, 2011 at 10:16 AM. Reason : .]

10/13/2011 10:13:34 AM

bttt, the $45 set is still available, in case anybody needs 'em for the Belk bowl.

12/6/2011 3:41:05 PM