I just accepted a new job in Charleston and know very little about the area. What can you fine folks of TWW tell me about it?

My job doesn't require me to report into an office at set hours, rather I will be bouncing around the area checking on job sites. I'm considering Mount Pleasant or Folly Beach because downtown Charleston is fairly expensive to rent and/or buy property.

Im moving from Wilmington and would prefer to find somewhere with a similar laid-back atmosphere. Outside of work my passions all revolve around the water (fishing, clamming, crabbing, kayaking, paddleboarding, etc.) so I'd like to be close to decent water.

Any and all advice would be much appreciated!

[Edited on February 23, 2014 at 10:43 PM. Reason : .]

2/23/2014 10:38:18 PM

When you end up crushing tons of hot ass, please don't post about it. That shit is depressing for us. Thanks.

2/23/2014 11:44:54 PM

What kind of environment are you looking for? I think you'll find Mt. P very similar to Wilmington, if not a little more suburban-esque. Obviously you're going to have such a better social life in Charleston, so if that's important to you I'd say its definitely worth the extra $$$ in a housing payment (cab rides back to Mt. P get expensive really quickly). Then again, if water access is a priority, the Mt. P side will be a much better fit.

I will say, Mt. Pleasant is generally a nice place to live, but the idea of going out there is hitting up Buffalo Wild Wings...no thanks. Have you thought about the West Ashley area?

2/24/2014 12:22:51 AM

ibtjbrick

2/24/2014 8:08:49 AM

HA^

While downtown is more expensive, you can find some slightly more affordable housing in the Wagner Terrace and Crosstown area (although it's been steadily rising the last couple years). If you can afford it, I highly recommend those areas. You can walk/bike to the King Street areas and bars and restaurants are popping up in those neighborhoods as well. You're also right near the 17N intersection (why the call it Crosstown) which puts you in the heart of Mount Pleasant or James Island/West Ashley in five minutes...and the beaches in 15 minutes.

Also...the best areas in West Ashley, James Island, and Mount Pleasant (Avondale, Riverland Terrace, and Old Village respectively) are the same price as Wagener Terrace and Crosstown.

If you get a place on Folly Beach...you'll hang out on Folly Beach 95% of the time. Personally, I don't find anything wrong with that...but you'll be limiting your options. If you want to be a beach bum, then do that. If you want to broaden your social circle, live downtown or close to downtown.

If you're not going to do downtown, just make sure you're not too far away. Stay away from Hwy 17N past the IOP connector. 17 traffic on the Mount Pleasant side sucks and you'll get stuck just going to Mt. P and IOP/Sullivans. Try and stay on the Coleman Blvd side or in between Coleman and 17 (Rifle Range has a lot of available neighborhoods). Don't get too far out in West Ashley either. Avondale is a great neighborhood with tons of restaurants and bars in walking distance and it's a quick jump to 61 and getting downtown. I like the Riverland Terrace neighborhood in James Island. You can walk to the Terrace that has a great independent Theater and Zia (favorite taco spot). Great music venue right across the street as well (Pour House). There are good neighborhoods in between downtown and Folly as well (James Island)...you just have to do a little research to make sure you aren't too far out.

I think that's it. Feel free to ask me more specific questions when you start narrowing it down. I've been down here for 9 years now and think I have a pretty good feel for all parts of Charleston. Congrats...it's a great place to live.


Edited to add: Mount Pleasant has gotten better in terms of nightlife...its not just Wild Wings and Red Drum anymore. Coleman Public House and Juanita Greenbergs are decent. Triangle is always busy and close to the beach...and a quick ride to Sullivans for Poes and Home Team will give you a good night in the warmer months. My buddy is going to be opening a nice bar next to Red Drum in a few months. So while it's not downtown or Avondale, it's definitely looking up.

[Edited on February 24, 2014 at 8:16 AM. Reason : .]

[Edited on February 24, 2014 at 8:28 AM. Reason : .]

2/24/2014 8:15:19 AM

Thanks brick, that is extremely helpful. Im going to spend a weekend or two down there just exploring and driving around to get a feel for things.

Ive heard that West Ashley is the up and coming area for young folks and an affordable are to look for a residence. I drove through that area a bit, but it seemed like more of a giant neighborhood and less of a community. Perhaps I missed the central urban area over there?

What is Daniel Island like? Ive checked into it online, but it kind of seemed like a giant country club and all the real estate videos are basically interviews of retired yankees who moved to the island. Not really my cup of tea.

I like the Shem Creek area and found a few nice apartment complexes nearby.

Is there much on Johns Island? would the commute there be a killer?

So many decisions.....exciting, but overwhelming

[Edited on February 24, 2014 at 5:46 PM. Reason : .]

2/24/2014 5:43:04 PM

You've hit Daniel Island on the head. Nice houses and a great place to raise a family...but too far away from everything and 526 can be a bitch if there's a wreck. Bad place to live if you want to be social and meet people. Long drives to the beach and downtown (as well as expensive cab rides). It has a little "downtown" area...but you'll see the same 20 people every time you go out.

I like John's Island and it's not as far out as people make it out to be. It's really close to the part of James Island I like (Riverland Terrace area with the Pour House, Zia, and the Terrace Theater) and it has a couple of really great restaurants (Fat Hen, Wild Olive, and a couple great new places). With that being said, probably not the best place if you're new to town and want to be close to everything. Not too far away from downtown, but far enough. It's probably the most "rural" of the areas as well. Lots of local farms are out there if that's your thing. Great disc golf course as well. Depends on what you're looking for, but doesn't sound like your spot. People live there to be close enough to Charleston to still go to places, but far away enough to where they don't feel like they're caught in the "hustle and bustle."

There are different parts of West Ashley. The most desirable neighborhood to live in would be Avondale, but also its priciest. A lot of those house are more expensive than the Wagner Terrace and Crosstown areas downtown. If you can't find something in Avondale, look at the surrounding areas. I wouldn't go too much further away from downtown than those and definitely not past the 526 overpass.

Shem Creek is a good place. It's like the midway point between Sullivans Island and downtown. And the bars on the creek are great when the weather is nice. Nothing like having a beer while watching the shrimp boats come in and dolphins swimming through.

2/24/2014 6:08:29 PM

Do you know anything about North Charleston? Seems like its real up-and-coming with recent urban revitalization projects. I'm particularly interested in Park Circle and the Mixson community/development. It seems like a cool, young, urban part of town that is affordable and fun.

http://mixson.com/
http://www.flatsatmixson.com/


* I also realize that some parts of N Charleston are still rather sketchy.

[Edited on February 26, 2014 at 9:41 PM. Reason : .]

2/26/2014 9:39:50 PM

Should have asked this in the beginning, but...are you renting or buying??

If you're renting...don't waste your first rental on North Charleston. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to shit on North Charleston...but downtown was awesome 5 years ago...now it's just straight up ridiculous. If you're planning on experiencing Charleston as a resident for the first time...you want to be in a central location. That's either downtown, Avondale, or Shemcreek-and-in.

Charleston isn't a big city...if you are downtown, you can seriously walk to ANYWHERE. You might save $150 a month living somewhere further out...but if you live closer you'll also save money on cab fare and waiting 30 minutes every night trying to find a cab that will also take you out to North Charleston.



If you're buying...Park Circle is a good spot. The homes are a bit more affordable, spacious, with yards, and there is a good bar/restaurant area. But you take the good bars and restaurants in Park Circle...and you multiply it by 20...and you have downtown.

I'm nagging a bit because you'll eventually be happy wherever you end up...I'm just trying to optimize your happiness.

2/26/2014 11:39:29 PM

Thanks man, you've been a huge help!

Financially, I'm in a position to buy. However, I'm thinking about renting for the first year just go go ahead and get some roots planted in the area and get a feel of things. It's just my girlfriend and I so we really don't need a big house or anything.

2/27/2014 7:45:05 AM

Quote :

"When you end up crushing tons of hot ass, please don't post about it. That shit is depressing for us. Thanks. "

2/27/2014 9:16:07 AM

Take back everything I said. You have a girlfriend...so get a place in Summerville. Be as far away from the vast quantities of ridiculously hot girls as you can. But seriously...being close to downtown now becomes a little less important. In my prior statements, I was factoring the easiest way you could get a drunk girl back to your place. Now that doesn't matter.

2/27/2014 9:45:27 AM

Haha for real though....


One of my biggest decisions of this move is whether or not to keep my girlfriend

2/27/2014 1:35:15 PM

Unless she's a 10...dump her. Hot bitches fight each other for mediocre guys down here. Its an embarrassment of riches. Come down here...crush it for a couple years...then settle for an 8 that you like to hang out with.

2/27/2014 2:38:39 PM

haha that is solid advice. I'm getting pretty excited to be living in the area

2/27/2014 6:03:03 PM

Meeting with a real estate agent on Thursday to check out Riverland Terrace on James Island. We're mostly going to be looking at rental homes, but maybe there is a good buy available too. I really like that area. It looks old and quaint with beautiful oaks and water views. Most importantly, they are several boat ramps nearby so I can satisfy my fishing/boating addiction. I hear there is a cool indie film theater nearby, as well.

3/4/2014 10:52:03 AM

Ahem...cough cough:

Quote :

" I like the Riverland Terrace neighborhood in James Island. You can walk to the Terrace that has a great independent Theater and Zia (favorite taco spot). Great music venue right across the street as well (Pour House). "

Riverland Terrace is my 2nd favorite neighborhood in Charleston after the downtown area. Good spots within walking distance and a 5 minute drive to the really good restaurants on John's Island and really not that far from downtown.

Only issue I had when looking to buy (non-issue if you're renting)...is that most of the houses were either 20 or 30 years old or they had been renovated about 20/30 years ago. So there were barely any of those "open concept" houses and most of them were hitting that "needs a ton of work" stage (roof replacement, switching carpet for hardwood, needs new kitchen, etc).

I couldn't afford to buy and re-do a house there. But when it comes time to upgrade to bigger house for the 2nd purchase...I'll definitely be looking hard again in that neighborhood. Our wedding photographer is selling her spot, and if I had the scratch, I'd definitely make an offer:

http://www.carolinaonerealestate.com/property/property.asp?PRM_MLSNumber=1405276&PRM_MlsName=ctar

3/4/2014 12:04:08 PM

^Thats a nice house

Yea, they are definitely older homes. Luckily, I have a background/education in residential construction and spent all of college paying bills by doing maintenance and remodel work. In Charleston I will be working as a green/sustainable building consultant. Sooo if I do buy an old home, I plan to do the remodeling myself and possibly make a few bucks when I decide to sell. The market seems strong here. The firm I'm working for did new 3000 homes last year between Savannah and Charleston!

Does the summer traffic going to Folly Beach affect daily life in James Island much?

3/4/2014 12:43:33 PM

Eh...it depends. The traffic to Folly in the summer does blow, but only on that one stretch (from the JI Connector to Folly). Riverland Terrace is off Maybank Hwy which is between the two connectors...not the last connector and the beach...so it really isn't affected. And there are back ways where you can avoid Folly Rd...and that stretch of Folly Road doesn't have a lot of shit that you need to get to anyways with the exception of a Wal-Mart. There is a Lowes right at the beginning of the connector. If I forget that it's a beach time or rush hour and I'm running an errand to Lowes, the traffic will tack on an extra 20 minutes.

That traffic is the main reason we go to Folly instead of Sullivans. If we plan ahead to go to Folly...we try and leave the house before 10:00 am to avoid the traffic and to make sure we get a decent parking place. Although the recent alcohol ban on the beach has slowed it down a bit.

3/4/2014 12:54:12 PM

Ended up renting an apartment downtown on Bee St, close to MUSC. Should be a good spot to settle in and get to know the area. Looking forward to living in the city and being within walking/biking distance of everything. Move in at the end of April

3/31/2014 9:00:23 PM

I lived in Avondale only 100 yards from Gene's Hofbrau and it might have been the greatest year of my life. I was paying $975/month for a small, 2 bedroom in a duplex. Prices have probably gone up since then, this was in 2009. And now there's a Mellow Mushroom, a sports bar, and a place with incredible craft beer called the Oak Barrel.

Avondale was fantastic, I could play pool at Gene's every day (free before 6pm!), buy cheap crap from the Helping Kids With Cancer thrift store, walk to Harris Teeter, and enjoy what is in my opinion the best breakfast in Charleston at Early Bird Diner, only 10 minutes down the road. There is also a delightful hair salon and consignment store but I don't know if that will interest the OP

I also think the Park Circle area of N. Charleston is still in the "poor hipsters" stage of gentrification, meaning right now it's still very affordable and in the long run I don't know if it will succeed or fail. But there are still a lot of cool bars and restaurants, as well as a farmer's market in the main circle and a really nice park on the water.

Anyway, good luck in your search. You are making me miss Charleston soooooo much

4/1/2014 6:48:07 AM

Oh just saw your update, I think that location is also great.

And you HAVE to try Early Bird Diner! I think Hominy is way overrated.

4/1/2014 6:49:18 AM

Bee St is a pretty good locale. Easy walking to distance to Upper King and all the bars and restaurants...but far enough to where you won't be woken up by hundreds of drunks walking by on the weekend.

Are you staying in one of the apartments in the back or part of a duplex? I had a law school buddy who lived in a nice spot on Bee St behind a large house. But my wife (gf at the time) also looked as some pretty suspect apartments there one time as well. Although...the main reason I say "suspect" is because we went to look at a two bedroom...and it looked like a summer camp cabin. A bunch of 19 year olds had four single beds in each bedroom...so basically there were 8 dudes staying in a two bedroom house. It was nasty as fuck.

Hope you're not staying in that apartment. I'm sure the other ones were fine.

[Edited on April 1, 2014 at 9:54 AM. Reason : .]

4/1/2014 9:35:14 AM

Haha thanks guys

jbrick - Im in an actual apartment complex. Probably 60 units in the building. Small, shotgun style units, but nice and clean with a secured parking deck. I'm in a 2 bedroom unit (one room will be my office). The unit has just been renovated and has kind of a modern-industrial vibe with stained concrete floors, trendy fixtures and appliance etc.. Also have a sweet window view of the Ravenel Bridge. By luck, I found out my uncle is a part owner in the building (i guess he invested in Chas real estate back in the 90's) so he's hooking me up with a great deal that I couldn't turn down. I also don't have a lease so I can stay here 6 months to a year and keep my eyes open for a cool spot if I choose to move.

Space will be an issue and Im thinking of renting a storage unit somewhere to keep a bunch of my outdoor gear in.


And yea...I saw lots of apartments like the one you referred to. Tiny little spaces that had been trashed by college kids for way too much rent!

4/1/2014 5:28:22 PM