Fermat All American 47007 Posts user info edit post |
Most of you have like 'lectrical know-hows and stuff right?
Do i need a "clamp" style ammeter to do this correctly? Or will a regular contact lead type multimeter be sufficient?
I'm talking about a stick/SMAW type, though it is a multiprocess machine.
Testing it correctly with a contact type meter just doesn't "feel" right on a DC setting, which is what I use almost exclusively. Wouldn't I need to actually need to "interrupt" the current under load in order to do this correctly? I trust the voltage readings I am getting on account of I have a good general idea of how voltage is measured in the machines.
If using the contact type meter under load should I be maintaining an arc? Or would the results be the same if I just close the circuit (stick the electrode to the weldment)?
Should I measure from the weld cable leads where they tie into the machine or ...crap that would mean measuring a closed circuit...
See I have no idea wtf. Help please?
Though this is a technical question, I don't see much in here with this type of subject matter.
Please
Please don't make me go to The Garage
[Edited on July 21, 2014 at 12:01 AM. Reason : feet] 7/20/2014 11:52:23 PM |
moron All American 34141 Posts user info edit post |
Clamp style inductive for sure.
You have to inline it otherwise and pretty much anything you buy from the store is not going to handle the load you have without using a resistor, which is more work than it's worth when inductive ones are cheap and readily available. 7/21/2014 2:20:23 AM |
BigMan157 no u 103354 Posts user info edit post |
do the ol' 9V battery test and touch it to your tongue 7/21/2014 7:36:16 AM |
Fermat All American 47007 Posts user info edit post |
Thanks, moron. I had no idea this was such a complicated problem. Saw online where people were making enormous heat sinks and home made resistors...screw that
Craftsman actually sells a right damn adequate clamp style that will read DC up to like 600 amps for like $80 i think. No I don't think that's cheap, but what am I gonna do
bigman, judging by what the welder I'm wanting to test has been doing to steel lately, I'm betting the 9v test would be almost safe. Probably pass OSHA standards anyway 7/21/2014 1:06:31 PM |
moron All American 34141 Posts user info edit post |
Those Craftsmans ones are like 50 bucks on the website.maybe they will price match it? 7/22/2014 1:03:55 AM |
Fermat All American 47007 Posts user info edit post |
OH SHIT YEAH I always forget about price matching!! 7/22/2014 1:07:20 PM |
Fermat All American 47007 Posts user info edit post |
getting a for real nice ammeter this friday *cough*(Fluke)
Ok, gang, now comes the second part of the question:
Should I simply short out the electrode to a piece of metal and measure, or would this be more effective if I were to first establish a "good" arc before reading? The first seems more likely to give consistent results
The second seems more likely to give me the "true" value I'm after, but it may be difficult to pin down within 10A or so (which is fine actually) from what I'm hearing.
I'm also testing my potentiometer and switch rheostat. 11/4/2014 11:10:01 PM |
Str8BacardiL ************ 41753 Posts user info edit post |
sounds like a good way to kill yourself 11/5/2014 12:07:41 PM |
Fermat All American 47007 Posts user info edit post |
yeah it's not 11/6/2014 7:43:55 AM |
Chief All American 3402 Posts user info edit post |
The first momentary arc will be higher and your maximum amp output but unless you have a fluke that responds/measures quickly (read your manual's specification section in regards to response or measurement frequency) you wont see it on the readout. If your fluke is quick enough measuring, though, even though you wont see it displayed you should be able to recall the max measurement function on the fluke after you've done your weld run. The second part is considered steady state and what I would personally use as your average amperage draw.
Good call on the Fluke, while the Craftsman would work in a pinch you have a life-long reliable tool as a go-to in that Fluke and retain its value better if you ever sell it. 11/8/2014 7:38:18 PM |
Fermat All American 47007 Posts user info edit post |
badass. this thing is the TITS.
a straight short gives me my target amps to within +/- 2A. Working amps are a whole different story. 5/32 7024 requires just a tad less than my machine is rated at for DC (210A), but once I get the electrode hot and get a steady arc, it only utilizes about 100A to run the bead even though it's set at 210... and it's a "Constant Current" process.
I do not understand electricity
Hey but thanks guys! I'm sure i'll find a way to illegally download software with this welder one day 11/11/2014 2:23:40 AM |