mildew Drunk yet Orderly 14177 Posts user info edit post |
how much you think it would cost?
Viper has a leak 7/25/2014 7:08:10 PM |
Hiro All American 4673 Posts user info edit post |
Check out Sapps Welding. They work with aluminum and do radiator repairs. I had them do the oil cooler for my motorcycle and they did a fantastic job at a very reasonable price.
http://www.sappsinc.com/ 7/25/2014 7:26:31 PM |
mildew Drunk yet Orderly 14177 Posts user info edit post |
Thanks.
If anyone is interested, dealership quoted me $1,200. I think the father-in-law and myself are going to take the radiator off on our own and drop it at a shop. 7/25/2014 9:06:21 PM |
jaZon All American 27048 Posts user info edit post |
Jeebus, couldn't you just buy a new OEM/Dodge radiator for way less than that? 7/25/2014 9:28:16 PM |
Hiro All American 4673 Posts user info edit post |
I'm sure there's a Ron Davis or a Griffin radiator that you can use aftermarket that'll work for FAR less money. if you go that route, just make note/find the oem specs and find the closest match with those guys. You should be able to buy a new alluminum radiator for at least half that, if not less. $300-$600 would be my ballpark on a quality aftermarket radiator.
[Edited on July 25, 2014 at 9:38 PM. Reason : .] 7/25/2014 9:33:19 PM |
mildew Drunk yet Orderly 14177 Posts user info edit post |
All of the Viper elitists say to stay away from the new aluminium radiators. They've discontinued the OEM and the replacement is now all aluminium. I think the OEM has brass ... I am thinking that we can take it off and get it welded or recored for a few hundred.
[Edited on July 25, 2014 at 9:50 PM. Reason : I just want cheap, high quality... too much to ask for? ] 7/25/2014 9:48:09 PM |
Hiro All American 4673 Posts user info edit post |
I'm curious why the elitests recommend against aluminum radiators... 7/25/2014 9:54:38 PM |
jaZon All American 27048 Posts user info edit post |
^^ gotcha
^ I was curious, too, so I did a quick google and looked at random viper forums. Seems they don't cool as well and aren't reliable
That was just a quick look, though - I could be way off
[Edited on July 25, 2014 at 10:29 PM. Reason : Looked at viper forums] 7/25/2014 10:04:57 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
Don't go too thick or dense of a core some people make that mistake and over heat at stop lights cause their rad fans can't move any air through them. 7/25/2014 10:23:08 PM |
Hiro All American 4673 Posts user info edit post |
^ There is this downside, but if you get an alluminum equivalent of the same specs (# cores, core thickness, etc) I don't see how this would be a bad thing. An all aluminum unit should be more reliable than mixed metals of copper/aluminum/plastic... 7/25/2014 10:24:41 PM |
sumfoo1 soup du hier 41043 Posts user info edit post |
Lemme let the wife pop out a kid or two and we will put these suckers on the market 7/25/2014 10:24:43 PM |
Hiro All American 4673 Posts user info edit post |
^ Why do I have the feeling you accidentally posted in the wrong thread in reference to trading your testicles for a vehicle... 7/25/2014 10:28:55 PM |
jaZon All American 27048 Posts user info edit post |
I edited my post - I was just looking at viper forums. There were even a few posts bitching about various replacements not even fitting properly 7/25/2014 10:29:56 PM |
mildew Drunk yet Orderly 14177 Posts user info edit post |
Just a mildlyinfuriating day....
So I had dropped it off at a dealership (w/ official Viper certified tech). I say "It has a leak from the front, driver-side radiator area".
They call and say the radiator needs recored. $1200. I do my research and say fuck all that noise.
Call them today to tell them I am picking it up to handle it myself. I pay $100 to get my keys back and get a note from the tech saying "Leak from radiator, driver side". They didn't evaluate the leak in any meaningful way and didn't find the actual source. I went to drive away and decided to look at the fluid level before leaving - glad I did because the radiator cap was off and sitting on the engine. Fucking shit. 7/28/2014 4:31:07 PM |
tchenku midshipman 18585 Posts user info edit post |
http://www.ebay.com
search term: c&r radiator
nascar-level 7/28/2014 5:27:19 PM |
Ahmet All American 4279 Posts user info edit post |
Sounds frustrating to deal with. I’d write an email to the service advisor.
I had an experience with Leith Porsche some time ago where they didn’t catch a minor leak in a radiator in a pre-purchase inspection. A few days later I got a questionnaire about my experience with them, I made note of the over sight. The next day I got an email from the service advisor apologizing along with a full refund to the credit card for the entire pre-purchase inspection (which is rather extensive and includes computer read outs from all sub systems, etc). Anyway, hopefully they can set you straight.
As a side note, I would not shy away from an all aluminum radiator from a quality perspective however I’m often leery of using aftermarket parts on a high end/exotic/collectible for several reasons. Fitment is one, originality is another. Good luck in any case. 7/29/2014 1:54:07 AM |
mildew Drunk yet Orderly 14177 Posts user info edit post |
Quick update if anyone cares... Family mechanic took a look, put it under pressure, and could not replicate the leak. I've driven it a few times now and no leak afterwards for the past few weeks. The guess is that the thermostat got stuck (since I let it sit for about 2-3 months) and there was an overflow from the reservoir.
tldr; Dodge fixed itself. 9/16/2014 4:54:07 PM |
Dr Pepper All American 3583 Posts user info edit post |
I would definitely ensure that the t-stat doesn't make a habit of sticking 9/16/2014 5:17:38 PM |
jaZon All American 27048 Posts user info edit post |
interesting 9/16/2014 5:57:02 PM |
arghx Deucefest '04 7584 Posts user info edit post |
I'll throw a +1 for Sapp's into this thread. 9/16/2014 9:39:02 PM |