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 Message Boards » » Choosing an engine importer Page [1]  
dustm
All American
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I'm looking at silver top 20v Toyota 4age engines to swap in my MR2.

First off, do any of you recommend anyone in particular?

I've been looking around for a while now and I see that places will sometimes have compression check videos, a bunch of pictures, and include a list of what's included or not included. That seems like a fair amount of info.

Would ya'll be comfortable buying if everything looked ok, it included the stuff you needed, and had good compression, or is there something more you'd do, like give them a call and feel out their intentions?

9/28/2017 9:12:09 AM

tchenku
'vast that foolery!
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First off, I have no importer recommendations

Second, K20A2 kthx

9/28/2017 9:01:16 PM

smoothcrim
Universal Magnetic!
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those motors are dirt cheap to build. just get a block from an mr2 and build it yourself. the other thing to check is the formula atlantic motors

9/28/2017 11:05:00 PM

Hiro
All American
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black top or bust. come on man...

9/29/2017 9:02:39 AM

sumfoo1
soup du hier
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I'm going with the k20 swap suggestion.

If you look around turbo k20 mr2s are world beaters... you tube that shit.

9/30/2017 3:04:15 PM

dustm
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Talking about engine options is fun, and I'ma do that, but what I really need right now is some advice/guidance buying an(y) engine online. If you have ever done this, please share your experience!

As far this particular swap goes, I'm not interested in getting super involved with custom fitment with a lot of fabrication, nor do I want to build a race engine. I do want something reliable with a bit more power that I can pretty much just drop in.

K20 would be interesting. They are nice and cheap, available locally, and have good power. I would definitely consider doing it if I was not working in a shared space on my first engine swap. From what I've read it's not a simple swap and requires a LOT of finangling. There will be enough to do as it is.

Rebuilding my existing motor is tempting, and if I wasn't set on having a bit more power I'd just do a bottom-end rebuild. To get to 160HP though, I'd need cams ($600+), fuel management, tuning, etc. I think the cost would exceed the $1200 for a silver top/ trans pretty quickly, and it wouldn't have the stronger trans, vvti, or any of the more modern features of the silver top.

The silver top is a good HP/cost/time compromise, so unless I find a screamin' deal on a blacktop I won't be swayed. It's just not worth it for 2x the cost. Awesome though, so if you have one holler.

10/4/2017 7:58:04 PM

dustm
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What about this one? Looks spray-painted, or like it has been on fire possibly: http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-00-TOYOTA-COROLLA-AE111-TWIN-CAM-ENGINE-AND-5SPD-TRANS-JDM-4AGE-L422054-/371959695305

This one has been posted for quite a while https://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/d/1992-toyota-celica/6269214961.html

Have been tempted to talk to him but the ad is a little off-putting

[Edited on October 5, 2017 at 12:05 AM. Reason : this one too]

10/4/2017 11:40:14 PM

TKE-Teg
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Where exactly are K20A's cheap?

10/9/2017 4:40:25 PM

sumfoo1
soup du hier
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There is a place in va, the place Doug demuro got his skyline from that imports engines.


They have inventory, so you don’t have to wait for it to show up and can pick the engine you want out of the warehouse.


I would recommend this so that you don’t sit here with an engine stuck in customs for whatever bs reason they feed you. Just go up with a truck, they will drop the engine in the back after you pay and drive home.

10/11/2017 5:49:56 AM

dustm
All American
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^^ So I realized it was the K24 engines I had been looking at. Still not super cheap, but seemingly not as bad as the k20.

^I tried them and didn't get a reply. I'm not sure, but by the looks of the website I don't think they do engines. Some awesome cars listed, though https://www.japaneseclassics.com/inventory/

I do like the idea of going to see one in person. The selection on ebay seems to be turning over steadily, so maybe I'll find one that looks decent with the right equipment and price sooner than later.

The blacktop with 6spd is pretty tempting. A clean-looking example with 6spd and lsd just sold. It was listed for $2400 or so. The Silvertop is half the damn price. I had a twinge of regret though, so maybe that means something.

I'd hate to get a tired and have to rebuild it, but I need to get this project rolling soon. I might have to take a chance here.

10/18/2017 12:49:16 AM

sumfoo1
soup du hier
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https://www.jspecauto.com/mobile-index.html

This is the place I was thinking of, a couple of YouTube builds use these guys and a buddy of my has got 3 2js from them.

This is who I was thinking of sorry for making you chase your tail.

[Edited on October 20, 2017 at 12:40 AM. Reason : .]

10/20/2017 12:38:20 AM

dustm
All American
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After much sweat and deliberation I have a blacktop with 6sp and lsd on the way!

11/6/2017 12:11:19 PM

Hiro
All American
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BADASS DUDE! I'd love to take a look at your MR2 at some point after the swap... Hopefully, I'll have a pretty comparable car to show you in return...

11/8/2017 8:10:01 PM

dustm
All American
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YEAAAHHH

11/9/2017 2:25:00 PM

dustm
All American
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Fuuuuuuuu


11/10/2017 1:45:03 PM

underPSI
tillerman
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Lovely. Hopefully the seller offers a warranty?!?

11/14/2017 3:53:33 PM

tchenku
'vast that foolery!
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just to be sure...

you ARE at TDC compression stroke for that cylinder, right?

11/14/2017 8:24:29 PM

dustm
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They have a warranty but the wording is pretty broad. I talked to them Monday and they asked for a leakdown video. The guy was initially defensive but opened up after we talked for a minute. He asked for a video of the leakdown test.

TDC on compression stroke for my static test. There was some fuckery with the gauge needles, as is mentioned below. I fixed the issue and re-did the test for the video. I did not send them the above picture posted here, but relayed approximate numbers over the phone.

Looking back over things, I noticed that in their compression test video, the gauge was 20 psi high before the test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtvGpL6Cc3I (this puts their results out of spec).

I checked my leakdown tester and it turns out the leak gauge was 8psi low in relation to the supply gauge at baseline. The o-ring was split too, so I replaced that. I don't want to go through the pain of dealing with a return so I'm trying to rule out error on my side as much as possible. Please let me know if there's more I should be looking for! Here's the recent video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gg2T3DRQdUY

To sum it up, 20%, 40%, 40%, 10%. Most of the air is heard pouring through the rings and exhaust valves. The 10% cyl had a silent intake valve, but ring and exhaust noise consistent with the other 3.


[Edited on November 15, 2017 at 1:40 AM. Reason : more]

11/15/2017 1:32:13 AM

tchenku
'vast that foolery!
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hot damn, ITBs? or just butterflies?

Can you fit feeler gauges between the cam lobes and buckets at each TDC? Hopefully, the cams are lined up correctly. I know 240 owners are notorious for fiddling with cam offsetting.

1-3 might be bad enough that you could shine a flash light down the spark plug holes, turn the crank, and see if the intake valves ever seal off the light

[Edited on November 16, 2017 at 8:49 PM. Reason : ]

11/16/2017 8:48:58 PM

Hiro
All American
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20v Blacktops had ITBs. Super sexy. Good for a solid 165hp, which is pretty good from a 1.6L in the 90's imo.

11/17/2017 10:24:23 AM

Hiro
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0g5UOZbV7Z4

11/17/2017 6:05:38 PM

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