yeah, good luck just finding a mark IV supra TT ecu around for a good price. they're not exactly plentiful. And the 6 speed Getrag trannies go for thousands used, and about $6k new. It's even worse if you buy an automatic car because they have a different rear end...

Supras are great cars but they are just too damn expensive to be worth getting into. I really looked into this extensively. I almost bought an unmolested mark IV automatic with like 80k on it in pretty good shape (not perfect), which the original owner was going to let go for 15k. But then I realized how much I would have to spend to do the manual conversion and all that... just wasn't worth it. I can blow my motor in my rx-7 three times and it still costs less than doing a 6 speed conversion.

2/29/2008 2:34:54 AM

yeah, a Supra is not a cost effective performance solution. the only reason to buy one is because you are determined to have a turbo Supra, damn the cost and everything else.

[Edited on February 29, 2008 at 2:44 AM. Reason : and they STILL run shitty ETs no matter how much power they make!]

2/29/2008 2:44:20 AM

Right now I am deciding whether or not to buy a car that was originally reported as stolen on it's Carfax.

2/29/2008 10:37:01 AM

thats tricky.

they are all branded salvage even if nothing happened.

lotsa stolen cars are driven to the ground.

2/29/2008 11:02:09 AM

It really depends on the car and what you're planning to do with it.

I'd consider it as long as these two conditions are met:
- I can get a hell of a deal. I'm not talking 10% off KBB either. More like 30%+ off.
- I plan to keep it for years. I really don't think a salvage/stolen brand on the title affects a $2000 truck as much as it does a $20,000 truck. Once you get to a certain point in the vehicle's age people just care about how well it runs and whether it is totally falling apart.

That's all assuming any repairs are satisfactory and it is mechanically sound.

Other than that, I just don't think it's worth it. You'll have a hell of a time selling it if you're planning to just keep it a couple of years and let it go.

[Edited on February 29, 2008 at 11:21 AM. Reason : l]

2/29/2008 11:19:05 AM

yeah, you should be able to get a good deal because of the salvage title brand. but like ^ said, if you want to resell shortly, its not the car you want.

2/29/2008 11:25:52 AM

Ok fine, here it is:

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/car/574131926.html

Seller's comments:

Quote :

" At the time I purchased the BMW, I had 2 gas-guzzling 4x4’s and a 75 mile one-way commute. This was the exact vehicle I needed to eat up the road between home and Atlanta 3 or 4 times a week, so I swapped a mint-condition Cherokee and some cash for it. I no longer have that job, and have only put about 1,200 miles on the car since the first of October (about 9,000 total since purchased last May). Current mileage is 103,150. The car has proven to be very reliable and fun to drive. It is the fastest car I’ve ever owned, and comfortable to drive, just tooling down the interstate or having some fun on the backroads. I am not sure of all the after-market work done on it, but I did get a clean bill of health from Bimmer Specialists in Greenville (Paul Campbell). It is Titanium silver with Black leather interior. Overall fit and finish I’d rate an 8/10 on the outside and a 7/10 on the inside. Here’s what I know, starting with the outside/mechanicals: I do know it’s got the M-Tech emblems and M5-type front bodywork, AC Schnitzer body kit and rear spoiler, upgrades lights (looks like a 2003 M5, effectively). It runs on 19 inch staggered RVM chrome wheels, wide Bridgestone Potenza’s put on when I bought the car (est. 8,500 miles on them) – 275/30’s on the rear and 245/55’s up front. Handling is fabulous in the dry and surprisingly good when the road is wet considering the footprint those tires put down. The front end has been lowered, and there’s an upgraded exhaust and new Bilstein shocks. It sounds fabulous. The previous owner had the entire cooling system (all pumps and hoses replaced right at $1300 just before he sold it to me), and claimed there was Dinan Stage 3 software in place. The shop didn’t confirm what the upgrade was but did indicate there was aftermarket performance programming in place. The guy that sold it to me claimed 340+ HP out of the 4.4 liter DOHC V-8 versus the factory rated 282 HP, but I haven’t confirmed that. The six speed manual transmission is tight and crisp. There a multiple sensor Audiovox alarm system installed and a decent CD/stereo, although the install doesn’t look as good as it should. Its got heated leather seats, the power moonroof, etc. There are a few mechanical trim pieces inside that need adjusted/replacing (cupholders, etc.). I’ve found them on the internet for well under a hundred dollars, but haven’t bought them yet. There is one part of the message display that needs replacing (intermittent operation). Bottom line is this is a sharp-looking, head-turning Bimmer that gets up and goes like few cars on the road. It needs just a bit of TLC to get to cherry condition, and should be a reliable and fun ride for at least another 100,000 miles. "

And his comments regarding the Carfax report:

Quote :

" The carfax shows a couple of things I can talk about and at least two things I know they've got wrong. At one time the car was registered in NY state, and a salvage title was issued. The previous owner told me the car was stolen, and that is consistent with the way GA, NY, and a couple of other states retitle stolen cars (the carfax web site points that out). The BMW specialist that kept the car for two weeks driving it and went thru it with a lot of detail did not see evidence of a wreck. I have his report card to share when we get together. You'll then see that the car failed emissions in Massachusetts. I have the repair records where the O2 sensors and catalytic converters were replaced at a cost of over 3 grand. The mechanic referenced above told me that the bottom of the exhaust has been repaired, but its in good shape. I could envision a stolen car being driven over a curb or something and causing damage that wouldn't affect the cars drivability, just the ability to pass emissions testing. Finally, when the car was registered to me, Carfax indicates that there is a lien and that it is registered as a commercial vehicle. Both of those are incorrect - it was a cash+trade transaction. I hold a clean SC title - actual miles - no salvage or Rebuilt notation and no lien. makes me wonder about some of the other notations in carfax reports I've looked at on various vehicles over time. Look it over and maybe we should then talk again. "

The KBB is $10,500, so I am going to see if I can get it for $8000.

2/29/2008 11:26:53 AM

correct me if I'm wrong but,

Didn't you start off with a $20K budget looking for a newer car that was going to be reliabe & not nickel & dime you to death?

2/29/2008 11:29:25 AM

lol, that car is no way worths $12,500. A BMW that old is gonna nickle and dime you to death. Why can't you just buy a clean, unmodded car?

2/29/2008 11:56:55 AM

Like The Duke, I enjoy modded cars.

2/29/2008 12:12:10 PM

mods = more maintenance, more money over time, more problems.

mo money mo problems

3/1/2008 2:57:15 PM

Quote :

"DUDE seriously? seriously? Yes the turbo kits cost the same because they'll both bolt to the same block and have the same turbo if you'd like and if you were going to run 8lbs of boost yes.. it would be similar. but if you're going to be running anywhere near the amount of boost you would want to swap to a single turbo from the stock twins.... You'd have to build the n/a motor's bottom end =$texas. not to mention the n/a computer doesn't cope with boost as well, the map sensor isn't right etc. Basically in the 450-650hp range which is what most people aim for. An n/a will cost you a $hit ton more. But if you go to the 700+ range where one would want to build both motors and run standalone and have a built transmission put into the car THEEEEEN you're back on the same ball field again."

DUMB, DUMB, AND MORE DUMB

1. the bottom end of an na isn't any different that the tt. the ONLY internal differences are oil squirters and higher comp. pistons (which can be alleviated with a thicker headgasket). some people say that the tt pistons are made from a stronger alloy, but there is no solid proof that i'm aware of.

2. you obvisouly forgot about the huge price difference in tt's and na's. roughly $8-10k in most cases.

3. 450-650hp is a ridiculous range to use. there's a shit ton of difference on a number of levels in a 450hp car and a 650hp car.

Quote :

"...except that i'm almost sure you can make 700 hp on a Supra with a stock bottom end, and prob with a stock transmission."

yes, the motor will reliably hold that but the transmission becomes a liability past 500hp depending on how hard you hit it. the na 5 speed isn't really any weaker, some even say it's stronger. lots of guys end their problems with gm autos.

3/1/2008 3:52:31 PM

So what is wrong with the Audi you have?

Doesn't seem to be anything stopping you from nearly barreling into my rear end on I-40 going 90 miles an hour when traffic is clearly stopped ahead.

All you're gonna do is get something to put the fear of god in you.

3/2/2008 12:34:59 AM

you dont have the knowledge or the skills (mechanic wise) to own a modded car.

you arent going to find a car that will need nothing after you buy it. you either need to have a lot of cash or a friend who can just shell out his time for the car.

3/2/2008 12:37:35 AM

Why don't you just buy a crotch rocket?

3/2/2008 11:43:48 AM

^cheap fast fun, but u can die easily

3/2/2008 12:24:14 PM

he wants to do that anyway, it seems.

3/2/2008 12:27:58 PM

http://tinyurl.com/yw4obv

1993 Toyota MR2 $11,000

Quote :

"A/C Very cold! Pioneer CD/MP3 Player New Slotted and drilled Rotors New 3" Berk Technology Dual Exhaust New Custom 3" Down Pipe New Clutch Master cylinder New Clutch Slaver cylinder New E-Brake Cables New Stainless steel brake lines New Brake Pads front and rear New .40 Wiseco Pistons New Total Seal Pistons Rings New Eagle Rods New Machined Crank New King Race bearings New Cemetic Tri-metal Head Gasket New Toyota oil cooler New Toyota Water Pump New Toyota Oil Pump New Toyota timing belt New Harmonic balancer/ damper assembly New NGK Plugs New Distributor New Rotor button New Toyota thermostat neck housing New Toyota upper water inlet New Fuel Filter New Spec stage 2 clutch Greddy Intercooler Greddy BOV ARP Main Studs ARP Head Stud bolts Ferrea Valves Ferrea Springs, and Titanium retainers Adjustable Cam Gears TRD Thermostat Tubular Exhaust Manifold Precision T3/T61 turbo 38mm Waste Gate Shift cable bushings Perfect compression 9 to 1 Custom Fuel Rail 750cc RC injectors Walbro 275 high flow fuel pump TRD Fuel Pressure Regulator MSD Spark Plug Wires MSD Coil Complete stand alone Hydra Nemesis ECU AGX 4 way adjustable struts Tein Springs Reverse Glow Gauges Boost, Air Fuel, Oil Gauge HKS Turbo Timer Apexi Boost Controller AVCR Short Shifter JDM steering wheel TRD 5point racing harness seat belts Ruff racing 18x8 front New BFG's Ruff racing 18x10 rear New Nexus' Plus two free New front tires Master Craft ZHP's Car is worked on by only MR2GURU in Asheville, NC. All car is tuned by Joseph. Tuned winning Honda CRX for TV show PINKS Car is only set on 12lbs of boost right now. can be turned up but, best to do on a dyno with Joseph only. He is the BEST. Estimated 250hp right now, capable of over 400hp very easy. Special thanks to Harry and Mindi at MR2GURU. The Best offer will take the car. Joshua Barfield 12522304917"

3/3/2008 12:29:01 PM

remind me to kick my own ass if i ever drop 11K on a 15 year old car

but that one does look a lot better than any other ones i've seen you post

3/3/2008 12:56:07 PM

Quote :

"1998 e36 M3 coupe: Alpine white, Dove gray Vaders, 5-speed, 128K miles, DINAN chip, cold air intake, cat back exhaust and short shift, OEM euro BMW clear corners, side markers and rear lights, New Michelin Pilot Sports. Beautiful car that runs terrific. Never tracked. $12,500 firm. "

3/3/2008 1:06:36 PM

^ this is that car



I'll probably be checking it out tomorrow.

3/3/2008 4:48:25 PM

not a bad looking car

3/3/2008 4:52:45 PM

It's not sparky's, is it?

3/3/2008 4:58:21 PM

Quote :

"Dove gray Vaders"

3/3/2008 5:18:41 PM

Just buy a fucking gun and put a bullet to your head.

It'll save you the suspense on whether you'll survive a high speed wreck or not.

3/3/2008 10:08:55 PM

seriously man, what is wrong with you.

Based on the fact you a) have a limited budget, and b) have limited time and shop capabilities,

you do NOT need to be buying a "modded" 10+ year old car. upkeep, repairs, tinkering, and unknown condition are all going to screw you.

SAVE YOUR MONEY and buy something with a warranty when you can finally afford it.

3/3/2008 10:13:54 PM

Quote :

" SAVE YOUR MONEY and buy something with a warranty when you can finally afford it."

i think they told him that a page or two ago... he doesn't like to listen

[Edited on March 3, 2008 at 10:23 PM. Reason : asdf]

3/3/2008 10:23:12 PM

Quote :

"seriously man, what is wrong with you. Based on the fact you a) have a limited budget, and b) have limited time and shop capabilities, you do NOT need to be buying a "modded" 10+ year old car. upkeep, repairs, tinkering, and unknown condition are all going to screw you. SAVE YOUR MONEY and buy something with a warranty when you can finally afford it."

Saving my money would be buying a new car. I doubt the Audi is going to go another couple of months without needing another $2000 put into it. I could drive it into the ground, potentially, but I'd rather sell it while I can.

If I got a brand new car, it'd have to be like a $13k Suzuki or something.

3/3/2008 10:28:01 PM

He still hasn't expressed what was wrong with his Audi A4.

3/3/2008 10:28:03 PM

^You still haven't expressed what you're doing in this thread besides trolling.

3/3/2008 10:28:39 PM

aha

3/3/2008 10:34:25 PM

if this is your DD find something with some fucking resell value that isn't modded to shit. you're selling one car because it isn't reliable and are trying to buy another that..isn't fucking reliable? GREAT LOGIC

In the mean time, keep saving your money + sell car you bought with decent resell value and in a year or two buy the car you really want.

and in case i wasnt clear--if you dont buy a modded to shit piece of shit now you might actually be able to save some money instead of wasting it on your shit box

3/3/2008 10:34:50 PM

I would say that a BMW is more reliable than an Audi.

p.s. who the fuck are you anyway?

[Edited on March 3, 2008 at 10:38 PM. Reason : ]

3/3/2008 10:37:41 PM

Seriously, is there is reliability issue with your car? Not that it would surprise me with an Audi, but you've never expressed why it's necessary to invest in a new WHIP.

3/3/2008 10:38:04 PM

-Broken radiator, coolant leak
-Massive clutch slippage
-Suspension sounds creaky like it's going out

3/3/2008 10:39:12 PM

that sounds like $500 would fix it

[Edited on March 3, 2008 at 10:40 PM. Reason : under $1k easy]

3/3/2008 10:40:37 PM

matt you really do need a car that is under warranty.

or pay someone to do your dirty work

3/3/2008 10:54:18 PM

There really are no new cars under $20k that I'd ever want to drive.

3/3/2008 11:10:26 PM

^^^ no way in hell $500 would do it. MAYBE under $1000. MAYBE.

but yeah, this thread is dumb. He doesn't want advice--he wants affirmation. He's received a bunch of good advice, but hasn't listened and probably won't. There's no reason to continue with the discussion--let him do what he's going to do, and probably learn an expensive lesson.


you can get all kinds of good sports cars (and other great cars) in the $8-14k range. Miata, MR-2 Spyder, S2000, 325/330i/ci, WRX. Spend just a little bit more and get a 350Z or C5 'Vette (expensive consumeables, but better operating costs than the shit posted in this thread), or a newer S2000 or 330ci.

If you want a 12-second MR2, you can have it for the same price, but it won't be as good of a DD, it won't have good reliability and longevity, etc.

Do what you want to do, but there's no point in continuing to ask us our opinions, and there's no reason for us to continue offering them.

[Edited on March 4, 2008 at 1:38 AM. Reason : good, fast, cheap...pick 2.]

3/4/2008 1:36:58 AM

Quote :

"good reliable, fast, cheap...pick 2"

tr00. this thread needs to be locked

3/4/2008 1:41:45 AM

yeah, i say "good" though, and let it encompass "reliable".

I mean, I could put an LT1 on a sand rail and it would be reliable, fast, and cheap, but still not what i'd call a "good car".

but yeah, pretty much same thing. if you want a car with good reliability and longevity, that's decent to drive day-to-day, and you want it to haul major ass, it's going to cost you some money.

[Edited on March 4, 2008 at 1:47 AM. Reason : and an E36 M3 is terrible bang for the buck, in my opinion. sweet rides, but overpriced.]

3/4/2008 1:46:12 AM

duke you are missing the point.

The kid needs a DAILY DRIVER.

Dude, go spend 3-5K and get any 2002+ Saturn, Honda, Toyota. Reliable, cheap, it will put you from A to B without any fuckups. Then save your goddamn money until you can truly afford a weekend car.

Hell you could get a year or two old Ford Focus, Mazda 3, or any number of other 4 door sedans or hatchbacks, with warranty and good reliability for 10-13k if you really want something to last.

The money you will save in INSURANCE, repairs, upkeep, and "mods" will get you to the point of being able to afford a GOOD, fun weekend car.

Hell I waited a good 6 years to get my first splurge and really should have waited another 2-3.

3/4/2008 2:50:53 AM

I would keep the A4.

You wouldn't be the first to sell out on an audi when shits starts breaking though.

goFigure

3/4/2008 8:19:14 AM

Quote :

"but yeah, this thread is dumb. He doesn't want advice--he wants affirmation."

That's partially true. In reality, both are related. I want to be affirmed that said car is a good purchase. There's at least four or five cars that I haven't gone out and bought because of this thread. So, I don't see how you think your efforts are fruitless.

Of the two cars I've had, I've had dramatically different experiences in them. The MR2 I paid $800 for, and the only major repair was a new clutch after I got it. That thing was beat to hell and it never broke down on me. I would probably still be driving it today if I hadn't wrecked it.

The Audi, on the other hand, is a nice drive and has a lot of amenities. However, and partially due to my own incompetence, I've had to put over $3500 into repairs on it. And things are still breaking.

So, when I think of reliability, from my own personal experience, a 20 year old MR2 seems like a perfectly fine idea.

And yes, "reliable, fast, or cheap" is a pretty profound statement of the car market.

Reliable is in itself a relative term. Sure, certain cars have issues and certain cars break down more, but it really depends on how you treat the vehicle. There are some users on here who will attest to the reliability of BMWs, and there are some users who will say it's a bottomless cash pit. I guarantee my Audi repairs would have been $2000 less if I had changed the oil regularly.

For all I know, that M3 could last me until 200k without any major repairs.... or the water pump could go out in 5k miles. It's a crapshoot, but I think you have to take that chance sometimes at this price level.

3/4/2008 8:36:10 AM

all good points. i personally can see both sides of it. i couldn't stand to have a boring cookie cutter vehicle, but i also understand the importance of having something reliable if it's your only car. i'd say just continue to keep an open mind about whatever you're looking at, consider people's advice, and don't rush into anything.

a note on the m3 i just noticed. while i think carfax is mostly a load of bullshit, it's still VERY easy to clean up a title in south carolina. just be warned. i'm just not buying that car has had that many screw ups in its history. that said, if he can really document that it's such a solid car through an independent shop and you can get it for a good deal none of that really matters.

btw, i thought you'd had two mr2's? red and white?

3/4/2008 9:11:40 AM

^After I wrecked the red one, I bought the white one from jdchmiel for $500. It had been completely stripped with no interior or dash or anything. My parents were like "wtf no airbags/dash?" and offered to get me a car around $6000 that was safer. I chose the A4 and sold the MR2 back to jdchmiel.

3/4/2008 9:43:31 AM

yeah, i put tokicos on the white one iirc.

[Edited on March 4, 2008 at 9:48 AM. Reason : .]

3/4/2008 9:47:59 AM

Quote :

"I guarantee my Audi repairs would have been $2000 less if I had changed the oil regularly."

wow, just wow.

3/4/2008 9:51:28 AM

Quote :

"This might be a stupid question, but does manual have overdrive? I thought the 6th gear acts like the overdrive on manual."

wow, just wow.

3/4/2008 9:57:30 AM

Quote :

"Of the two cars I've had, I've had dramatically different experiences in them. The MR2 I paid $800 for, and the only major repair was a new clutch after I got it. That thing was beat to hell and it never broke down on me. I would probably still be driving it today if I hadn't wrecked it."

Which you wrecked, and it was mostly stock. And it has no practicality at all (trunk, passengers, et al). If those first two points arent reason enough to get a tame daily driver, I don't know how much convincing will. I went through this same experience early on in my car days, convinced I had to drive something sporty or my life would suck. The 4 years in a Mada 626 and going on 7 in a Saturn cured me of that thought.

3/4/2008 10:10:03 AM